TC Hawken Hammer Issue

[peters_ham]

As has been suggested here in multiple replies, it's probably just gummed up, seized etc.

Once you get it all cleaned/freed up if you want to adjust the triggers it is a super simple process.

This is the procedure once DST triggers have been properly installed (in this case, factory installed).

Leave the hammer down (so fired position).

Back the little screw out a couple of full turns.

Set the triggers.

Slowly turn the screw clockwise until the triggers "fire".

Back the screw out 1 full turn counter-clockwise.

Try setting the triggers at all hammer positions -
hammer fully down, half-cock, and full-cock.

If it sets smoothly in all three positions then all is good.

If it's noticeably more difficult to set at half-cock the trigger is either installed too deep in the inlet(often caused by tightening the tang screw too tightly - so just back it off a hair)OR the front trigger bar needs to be filed down a bit (it wasn't finished properly).

If you do fiddle around to tune the trigger DO NOT fire the set trigger at half-cock position - it can severely damage or break the nose of the sear...

I must have missed something here :-( I cannot set the hair trigger - I am sure I am doing something incorrectly in the setup....but at least she fires correctly now - I will come back to set up a bit later.

thanks again!

 

[Billnpatti]

Really sounds like a dirty lock so do this: Look on the side opposite the lock. There is a bolt head showing opposite the lock. Use a screwdriver to carefully remove this bolt so you don't booger up the slot. Just unscrew it and remove the lock. Do not worry, nothing will fly out when you remove it. With the lock out, go to the nearest auto parts store and buy a can of spray carburetor cleaner (spray brake cleaner will work too). Take the lock out into the driveway and spray it thoroughly to flush out all of the dirt. I am pretty sure that a dirty lock is your problem and flushing it out in this manner should solve your problem. Be sure to move the hammer a few times as you spray so the cleaner can get into the tumbler notches. When you have the lock clean and it has had a minute or two to dry, use some good gun oil or 3 in 1 machine oil to lightly oil the working parts. Then carefully fit the lock back into the stock and replace the lock bolt. Do not over tighten the bolt. It is not necessary to use too much force to tighten the bolt because you can cause problems doing so. Just snug the bolt and that's all. This should fix the problem. If not, get back to us and let us know what you found and what the lock is doing. :hatsoff:

 

[Alden]

If you do this cover your eyes -- carbeurator cleaner is usually a powerful jet and will easily bounce back all over the place. Try not to get it on your hands either -- I wear nitrile gloves for cleaning with chemicals.

 

[peters_ham]

I cleaned the heck out of all mechanisms...so I think I am good there - NOW - torque on screws may be another story...I will have to recheck that.

 

[necchi]

Here's a good thread about triggers, pictures an such; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/268832/

 

[peters_ham]

Here's a good thread about triggers, pictures an such; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/268832/[/quote]


Thank you I will check that out. I tried a bunch of stuff and basically I have no rear trigger - does not fire at all, just swings back and forth. The front trigger fires but it is no where near a hair trigger now - no matter what I do with that screw adjustment it has little effect on the pull pressure. But I will try the above! Thank you.