TC Hawken sight replacements

[Zip]

Oh yeah, Ron that's some honkin' beast you tagged there. Dan, how did you get your lock and furniture that color? Ahhh rats, now you got me off topic. I got a factory barrel but would be interested in hearing what loads you all are shooting. :thumbsup:

 

[BrownBear]

I've got about 2-1/2" between my two tang screws. Will that work with the Lyman models you use?

You're in the same boat with the Lyman tang sights as with the TC tang sights. You need a third hole between the two. I suppose if you were going to shim as Ron describes, you could put a third hole in the shim while leaving two holes in the tang.

I can appreciate the need for the shim or block. With the TC tang sight you're extended all the way up on the tang sight while using the stock .50" TC front sight. If you don't like the rear sight adjusted so high you either have to lower the front sight or raise the whole unit on the rear. The globe sights can't be lowered, so raising the rear is the answer with them.

So far I've been lowering the front blade sight or FO sights (range I've tried: .220" to .350"). With the really low sight I've had trouble with reflections off the barrel, creating a "double" front sight.

An added advantage for me in raising the rear sight would be stock fit. For me the combs on TC Hawken stocks are way too high, and low rear sights only make that worse.

Lots of thinking and fiddling, but thankfully most of it can be done before you spend money or hack on that high comb.

 

[don hepler]

The blade sight, that is being refered to, was used on some of the Renegades with a square cut in the rear sight, much like the sights on a modern revolver. I am the same age as Zip and am going to experimint with the Lyman 57 sml and the TC viernier tang sight. As far as the factory sights are concerned I do better if I use a 6 o'clock hold at 50 yds., and that's about my limit anyway. The Lyman looks like the winner but I haven't had the chance to test it yet.

 

[Idaho Ron]

I-Ron, what did you shim up your rear sight with? I've got about 2-1/2" between my two tang screws. Will that work with the Lyman models you use? Also, R-Dan and I-Ron your guns look great in the "white".

I used aluminum bar stock. I filed it down to make it fit the tang and give me perfect vertical movement of the sight. The block is only over the two back holes of the three. I used a longer set of screws to make it work. Ron
Ron

 

[Idaho Ron]

Listen to Ron, if you are serious about Shooting conicals in your T/C with an aftermarket barrel. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :v :bow: As his picture shows, he has been very successful hunting game in the mountains of Idaho, Montana, and Washington with his gun- and he has taught his to son to be as good, too!

Yes, using a block under that rear sight does usually require replacing the screws with longer ones, but that is a minor cost. :hmm: :grin:

Paul, I don't get to hunt in Washington. I used to Hunt Montana but I haven't hunted there with my ML. Ron

 

[paulvallandigham]

Oops! My bad! :surrender: Thank you for the correction. :thumbsup: [I'd rather hunt Idaho, anyway!]

 

[Zip]

Hadden West, who makes a vernier tang sight for the TC? I've got a Marble tang sight on my 1885 Uberti Highwall .45-70 that works just fine.

Also, fellas, how come some TC Hawkens have 2 and some have 3 tang holes? :idunno:

 

[Zip]

BrownBear,

I'm not following your "put a third hole in the shim" while leaving two holes in the tang. As a matter of fact, until I saw Idaho Ron's pics on the "Bending TC Hammer" thread I was confused as to the 3rd tang hole info even after looking at the sight on Lyman's website. I was mistakenly thinking of using the most forward hole for mounting the SML sight, when in fact you use the farthest back tang hole. Duh. Anyhow, are you suggesting that using a shim with a hole drilled only into it and not the actual tang beneath is sturdy enough to screw down and hold the SML sight in place through repeated recoil? Sorry if I'm not making any sense. My wife said it's a lovable shortcoming of mine...but that's just her. :idunno:

 

[Idaho Ron]

BrownBear,

I'm not following your "put a third hole in the shim" while leaving two holes in the tang. As a matter of fact, until I saw Idaho Ron's pics on the "Bending TC Hammer" thread I was confused as to the 3rd tang hole info even after looking at the sight on Lyman's website. I was mistakenly thinking of using the most forward hole for mounting the SML sight, when in fact you use the farthest back tang hole. Duh. Anyhow, are you suggesting that using a shim with a hole drilled only into it and not the actual tang beneath is sturdy enough to screw down and hold the SML sight in place through repeated recoil? Sorry if I'm not making any sense. My wife said it's a lovable shortcoming of mine...but that's just her. :idunno:

I am sorry if I lead you the wrong direction. Some of the older TC Hawkens have three holes. The two that normally hold the tang on the stock and one more kind of in the middle. When I use a shim I drill the third hole in the tang. Then I make the shim to fit the base of the Lyman sight. I don't thread the holes in the shim I just thread the holes in the tang. The longer screws go through the shim and thread into the tang. I am going to post an old write up I did on installing a Lyman sight. I hope it helps and if you have a question feel free to ask. Ron

 

[cryogenic76]

Thanks for jumpin' in MD. From your pic it looks like you filed down the rear leafs' height? How'd the gun shoot after that?

Sorry for the late reply.

I actually machined a large amount of the rear sight blade and body. The only remaining original dimension is the adjustment screw size (6-32).

I also added a small brass bead to the front sight.

The sights are much easier to use as a result.