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TC Hawken

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Couchtr

32 Cal.
Joined
Sep 16, 2006
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I just recently purchased a new TC Hawken. It's an older model I got in a pawn shop for $50. It looks to have a little pitting in the bore. I have very little experience with pitting. Can I just clean this or should I purchase a new barrel? Also, have an 1851 navy and would like to know how they shoot? (reliable, accurate, and so on)
 
TCR,
what cal is the hawken?
You can clean the bore real good and run a patch down it and feel for pits/roughness and then decide. It might shoot ok as well.
You can polish somewhat with 3 or 4/0 steel wool

sounds like you got a good deal price wise, you can put a green mountain barrel on it for around 200 +/-. I just did the same thing and put a .40 onmine for 172 shipped, a perfect drop in.

Food for thought,
Brett
 
You might even try a little of that stuff people use to lapp their barrels. aaaa, it's from Brownells... and I can't remember it's name!

That stuff and a green scour pad will also smooth it up a bit.

Dang it, what is that stuff called?
 
Actually I was thinking of that JB bore paste. I used it to smooth out some of the chatter marks in one of my barrels.
 
I did like Brett Sr. and installed the gm .40 andvery happy I did. I started with a misused t/c kit gun and ended up with a fine rifle for about $210.00. I still used the JB bore paste on my barrel as sharp edges were cutting tight patches.
Good luck with your rifle!
 
Why not give the barrel bore a good cleaning, with Shooters Choice Blackpowder Cleaning Gel, a .50 caliber jag, and patches, and a bore brush. After a thorough cleaning, try working up a load. There is a very good chance this Hawken will shoot O.K. If you shoot patched round balls, try starting with 70 grains Goex FFG, .018" pillow ticking patch, and a .490" round ball. I have had good luck with this load as a starting point.
 
I wouldn't worry to much about it until you have at least 100+ rounds through the barrel. I have a T/C Hawken I bought in a Pawn Shop with alot of rust in the barrel. I scrubed it and laped it with valve grinding compound and still had some rough spots in the bore when loading. But after about 125 shots it smoothed out and now it will shoot a hole lot better than my old eyes can see. I spit patch and cut at the muzzle. I use .018 white on white pillow ticking that I bought at Walmart. I cut it in strips about 1 1/2" wide. .490 round ball and Goex fffg. 50 grains for target and 90 grains for hunting.

Good luck,
Robert
 
Thanks to all for their ideas. Like I said, just have had much experience with it and wasn't sure if I should worry about it or not. I appreciate the advice. Will mention what happens with it, have to wait a week before I can go to the range to shoot.
 
TRC, I've restored a few rusty barrels. A lot of the time they shoot just fine afterwards. As a first step, I'd suggest scrubbing the bore with 0000 steel wool and oil. Use a penetrating oil like Kroil, Ballistol, or what have you. Wrap the wool around a jag or preferably a nylon brush, and work it in and out of the bore till you get the rust out. Then take a look. Usually that's enough. If patches snag on rust pits, try lapping the bore. Once it's smooth, it'll probably shoot just fine. Good luck to ya! :)
 
Sounds like you got good advice on the barrel. Now on the Navy it will probably shoot alittle high just have to shoot it to see. I have one that shoots POA at 25yds but most shoot high. AS far as accuracy that depends on the shooter but with a colt 3 to 4 inches at 25yd would be good.
There sights are awefull. Fox :thumbsup:
 
I had heard that about Colt 1851 navy and 1860 army. I had also read that the brass frame can develop into a problem over time. Read that they can shoot loose. I guess, over time, they mean the screws can ruin the threads in the softer brass, not sure though. Also, sorry for posting about a percussion revolver alongside rifles. Just was thinking on them both and didn't want to post two seperate topics.
 
Well, we will forgive you this time. :grin:

As for shooting loose, what folks are talking about is the shaft the cylinder turns on (called the Cylinder Pin).
This is threaded into the frame.

The other screws aren't under any stress when the gun is fired however as you can imagine every time the gun is fired, the bullet/ball tries to blow the barrel off of the gun. This load is transmitted into the cylinder pin and into the threads in the frame.
If the frame is brass, the threads will yield allowing the pin to move forward.

If you keep the powder loads on the light side, it will shoot just fine for years.

If you want recommended powder loads for your pistol, post the question in the Pistol Forum.
Thanks. :)
zonie :)
 
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