TC maxiball too tight in a TC Hawken ?

[Sudsy]

I've been pouring with this mold for nearly 30 years.
The rounds fit down the barrel perfectly and shot extremely accurately out of my, that old, Traditions Hawken.



I recently sold the Traditions after I picked up a new to me but never shot pre warning wall hanger TC Hawken. I figured it was an upgrade, even has a peep sight.
Went to the range and the rounds that went just right down the barrel of the Tradition have to be hammered down the barrel of the TC.

 

[64Springer]

And...

 

[Sudsy]

Is it normal to be that tight ?
Wooden hammer to get it down tight

 

[64Springer]

Is that normal ?

Yes.

Your TC has a tighter bore than your Traditions.

 

[Sudsy]

Obviously and unexpected
Should have kept the Traditions

 

[bang]

Size it

 

[SDSmlf]

Pure lead used? An alloy will drop bullets a little larger.

 

[Sudsy]

Yes, same batch that shot well out of the Traditions

 

[SDSmlf]

I have only heard and do not personally know that the Traditions bores are a little large that TCs, but I do know that Maxi Balls cast out of non pure lead alloys typically are harder and larger, resulting in them being more difficult to load in TC bores. What were the results of hardness testing on the lead you are using to cast your Maxi Balls?

 

[josie wales]

Pure lead used? An alloy will drop bullets a little larger.

First thing that came to mind! Lead is to hard.

 

[ETipp]

Yes.

Your TC has a tighter bore than your Traditions.

Exactly. And with that said, I have owned, and still do own one, older TC that all of them load tight with Maxi Balls. But every one of them are doable and shoot the Maxis very well.

 

[ETipp]

Obviously and unexpected
Should have kept the Traditions

From my experience over the years with several different TC's shooting Maxi Balls, it is completely doable to load them. A bit hard to get started but after the first few inches down the muzzle it becomes easy to seat them. And as mentioned, if the lead has some impurities in it, the Maxi Balls will be more difficult to ram down the bore. Again it is doable. I have casted many out of wheel weights (which I do not recommend) and they were tight all the way to the breech. But still doable and very lethal. Their over all weights will vary more with lead with impurities.

You have a couple of options here. One is to switch over to some other projectile of some sort. I have not shot the Maxi Hunters yet but I have some to try. They may or may not be easier to load. I have also tried brand new Hornady Great Plains bullets and they appeared to start even harder yet, but were terribly loose in the breech area. From what I have read, they are made from very soft lead.

You also have the option of using a range rod and/or a ramrod with a handle on it, such as a "T" handle or a palm handle that can be screwed on the end of a regular ramrod.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Size it

I'll second this if it's too tight for your liking. Buy a LEE resizer closest to what you need. If they don't make the exact size there are vids on how to polish them to the desired size.

 

[Sudsy]

I'll second this if it's too tight for your liking. Buy a LEE resizer closest to what you need. If they don't make the exact size there are vids on how to polish them to the desired size.

I have a good range rod made for me by October Country, but even with that I can't get it to move by hand, it has to be hammered.

Yes the rounds are 100% pure lead.

I have a few sizes of the Lee resizer and an RBCS Lube-A-Matic so resizing did come to mind.
Before getting the right die I need to figure out how to slug a barrel that you can only access from one end.

How do you get the hammered in slug back out? Only way I can think of is to shoot it out.
What would be a good mouse fart load that would be enough to get the slug out but not enough to make it deform upon impact? It has to be enough powder to get it all the way out and not squib it. 5 grains of FF ? 10 grains ?

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

I have a good range rod made for me by October Country, but even with that I can't get it to move by hand, it has to be hammered.

Yes the rounds are 100% pure lead.

I have a few sizes of the Lee resizer and an RBCS Lube-A-Matic so resizing did come to mind.
Before getting the right die I need to figure out how to slug a barrel that you can only access from one end.

How do you get the hammered in slug back out? Only way I can think of is to shoot it out.
What would be a good mouse fart load that would be enough to get the slug out but not enough to make it deform upon impact? It has to be enough powder to get it all the way out and not squib it. 5 grains of FF ? 10 grains ?

I just use bore gauges, the telescoping T-style. Not as precise as slugging but it's just a muzzleloader so close enough unless you're shooting competition. There was a thread on here a couple weeks ago that someone mentioned placing a heavy rod in the bore and using it as a slide hammer to knock the slug out once it's tapped into the bore. I'd be afraid of damaging the rifling without a soft coating on it but that'd work to get a precise slug.

 

[stikshooter]

Yes, same batch that shot well out of the Traditions

That matters not as we are talking two different bores , and how did you test a sample to know the BHN (hardness) ? My cabin tree tester explains what the BHN on every batch (sample) that comes out of the pot with a date if alloyed (can change over time) unless pure . And I will bet your not using pure ,it ain't that hard . Perhaps you could mention the mold maker, I have a Lyman mold casting smaller that worked well in an H+A 45 under hammer made (I think by design) but way undersized for my other 45 barrels/Ed

 

[Sudsy]

The lead is pure. Ingots came from an industrial source that required pure lead, and it comes up at Bhn 5 on my Ames hardness tester.

Mold maker was in the title - it's a vintage TC mold

 

[64Springer]

Cero-Safe chamber casting metal is the best way to slug a bore.

Low melt temp.

Pour it in, let cool, remove.

Post #15 to remove the CeroSafe slug.

Lightly lube the bore/muzzle before pouring.

 

[ETipp]

I have a good range rod made for me by October Country, but even with that I can't get it to move by hand, it has to be hammered.

Yes the rounds are 100% pure lead.

I have a few sizes of the Lee resizer and an RBCS Lube-A-Matic so resizing did come to mind.
Before getting the right die I need to figure out how to slug a barrel that you can only access from one end.

How do you get the hammered in slug back out? Only way I can think of is to shoot it out.
What would be a good mouse fart load that would be enough to get the slug out but not enough to make it deform upon impact? It has to be enough powder to get it all the way out and not squib it. 5 grains of FF ? 10 grains ?

The bore on your TC is smaller than any I have ever loaded Maxi Balls in. Are you sure there is no rust or bad spots in the bore?

 

[Shawrco]

No Excuses bullets has a sizing pack of their conicals, .500 - .504 in .001 increments. According to the instructions, the correct size should fit snugly without having to force it in with a short stick. You can shoot them out, or I guess you could pull them with one of those devices. I have never tried to pull a bullet, so I’m not sure how well that works.
https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/product/50-caliber-sizing-pack/