• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

TC MaxiHunters & Lyman Deerstalker

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nortonjunk

32 Cal.
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Has anyone tried T/C MaxiHunters (350 gr) out of a Lyman Deerstalker? I tried a few yesterday with 80 gr FF Goex. Had trouble keeping them on a large pizza box @ 50 yards. I did not have a felt wad between the powder and bullet. How much does this help? The bullet went down the barrel very easy.... one finger on the ram rod....
 
Without OP wads, to seal the gases behind that bullet, you are going to be gas cutting those expensive lead bullets and getting bushel basket groups. Reduce that powder charge and use some OP wads.

I don't know how deep the grooves are in that barrel, or the Rate of Twist. I suspect its something like 1:28" ROT, and the grooves are shallow, designed to shoot either sabots, or conicals. You want a OP wad that is at least wide enough to equal your groove diameter to seal the grooves. Wider by a few thousandths will help even more. YOu will also find that if the diameter of the bullet is within .002" of your bore diameter( land to land), that the bullets will be more accurate. If you can get them sized to .001" over bore diameter, that is better.

A lot of people complain here about the Lyman/T-C bullets, But find the Hornady bullets work much metter in their guns. Consider that.

IMHO, an 350 grains bullet is totally unnecessary for shooting deer, and actually does a worse job than a PRB of pure lead. With such a short barrel, you really cannot expect much from shooting that large a powder charge. A lot of your powder is burning outside the muzzle with that load.
 
I used a percussion Deerstalker for about 16 years, and put anything and everything through it that I could get my hands on. I got the very best accuracy from a paper patched Lee Mini and 80g of Pyrodex RS, but didn't like the recoil. I didn't get very good accuracy from any bullet that slid down the barrel too easy. I found after shooting a pile of Deer that I liked the round ball best of all, and accuracy with a .495 ball, 18th pillow ticking patch, and a felt wad, all pushed by 80g of Pyrodex or 2f Goex was very good.
 
I tapped the bottom of them to make them bigger. This makes them a little harder to load, but makes a better seal and keeps them from drifing in the barrel. I was shooting them in a TC .50 Hawken. There made to engage the barrel on the top ring only. Dilly
 
For accuracy, a (.015) patched (.490) round ball and 75 grains of 2f Goex black powder works great for me.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I had tried a .490 PRB with a .010 oiled patch with 80 gr ff. This load seems to shoot well at 50 yards (3-4 inch groups).

How do you obtain the optimum powder charge? Do I keep backing the powder down by 5 or 10 gr until the group starts hitting low on the paper?
 
Unless your bore is undersized, you should first try using thicker patching materials. Try .012, .015, and .018" patches. Lube them with different lubes, both liquid( Hoppes #9 Patch lube and cleaner, olive oil, vegetable oil, a " dry lube " of 1:6 Ballistol to water, letting the patching dry in the sun to evaporate the water, but leave a thin coat of oil in the fibers, water, spit, etc.) and then try greases and lubes,( like Wonderlube, or Stumpy's Moose snot recipe, or a 50/50 mix of melted beeswax and olive oil, etc.)

I think 80 grains and that thin patch you are using is a bit much. Are you locating and examining your spent patches on the ground after each shot? Are you "reading them?" At 50 yards, your gun should be putting RB in one ragged hole all day long. Back that load down to caliber- 50 grains of FFg, and start there.

In my GM .50 barrel, I found that a .490 ball, a .015" patch, lubed with Young Country 101, now Wonderlube, or Bore Butter)and 60 grains of powder gave me that one hole group at 50 yards. My 100 yd load is 75 grains of powder with the same Ball/patch combination. My barrel is 39 inches long.

Make sure you are using a SMALL aiming point on that target each time you fire- a "sighter" as its called in chunk gun matches.

I use a rectangular piece of card stock, turned 45 degrees, so that I have a .45 degree angled "arrow" pointing towards where I want the balls to impact. I can center that point on my front sight, and bring the sight up until the point is covered and then fire, for very small groups.

I know one man who uses the same diamond approach, EXCEPT, he has the diamond above his POI, and brings his sight up to the point, holds it and fires. I haven't tried his technique, but it should be as good or better than what I have been doing for years.

If you are not an experienced shooter-- no insult intended here, 'cause I just don't know you--- use a solid bench, good snadbag rests, front and back, and use your thumb and index finger to Pinch the trigger, so that only your shoulder takes the recoil when the gun fires.

Don't wrap your hand around the wrist of the stock when testing your loads, because this is the most common source of erratic groups even when the powder charge, and Patch/ball /lube is correct.

To raise the gun up or lower it down, move the rear bag, or simply pinch the rear bag to push up against the toe of the stock.

Let the forestock rest on the forward rest without your hand there. You are testing the equipment, not your ability to hold a gun off-hand. That comes later.
 
Went back to the range today and tried .015 patches lubed with Bore Butter and knocked the charge down to 65 g FF. I only could see maybe an inch or 2 difference in elevation for impact on the target. My final 5 shots were in a 2 inch group from a good rest. Next I have to try the aiming point suggestion. I suspect aiming point is most of the difference now. I inspected the patches from my shots on the range. Fully intact with a black ring around a slight stain where the ball was.

I forgot to mention earlier the barrel is 24" with 1:48 twist

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
If you are getting 2 inch groups at 50 yds, it will only get better as you get used to shooting the gun, the barrel sets into the stock, the lands are polished with future firings, and you learn how to hold the gun right to get tighter groups. Try some even lighter loads. They do make a difference. It takes the right day, right weather, and the right shooter with nerves of steel to shoot one hole groups at 50 yds. and further. You are getting there. Enjoy the fun. :thumbsup:
 
Hornady great plains hollow base hollow point shoots really well out of my deerstalker might want to try them 385gr. None of the T/C conicals shot good out of mine.
 
My Deerstalker seems to like the 275 grain maxihunter (or is it the maxiball?). I get groups about 2-3" at 50 yrds with them. Someone told me the larger and longer bullets would not work as well as these 'shorties' in the gun.
 
i can only say,MAXI-HUNTERS are not good to use in a 1-48 twist T/C hawkins.unless you like to shoot pie plate size groups.


but the MAXI-BALL 370 WITH A BORE BUTTON WILL CUT HOLES AT 50 YARDS IN .50CAL T/C HAWKINS.

its all in BALANCE and longer is better.
 
Back
Top