TC Patriot loading stand ?

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Ended up with a TC Patriot in a trade the other day. I've never been much on pistols, only reason I took it on trade was for the lock. But the more I fool with it the better I like it. Have seen loading stands while researching the pistol and was wondering if these were sold by TC or are all homegrown ?
 
I have a couple TC Patriots. For thirty plus years of shooting those pistols, I have never had an issue with cracked stocks, or anything else for that matter. I don’t abuse them. I have absolutely no complaints or concerns about those pistols. :thumb: :cool:

I do not use a loading stand. I hold the pistol in my hands during the loading process. The butt of the pistol NEVER touches a hard surface while loading. It’s relatively easy. If I’m wearing my holster for the pistol, the butt just rests inside the holster when I pour the charge down the barrel. Everything else is done holding the pistol by the barrel.

I think some of the cracked stock issues are from people over tightening the lock plate screw. That just needs to be snug. Also resting the heel of the butt on a hard surface during loading puts unnecessary stress on the stock.
 
Thanks for the discussion regarding using a loading stand for these single shot pistols. I had not considered the stress put on the stock during the tamping process! I am considering building a combo stand that would fit both my Lyman .54 and a .50 CVA Mountain pistol. I will still build it and use it for charging powder but seat the ball whilst holding. The education gleaned from the forum is always invaluable.
 
Ended up with a TC Patriot in a trade the other day. I've never been much on pistols, only reason I took it on trade was for the lock. But the more I fool with it the better I like it. Have seen loading stands while researching the pistol and was wondering if these were sold by TC or are all homegrown ?
Back in the day, I saw plenty of TC Patriots with broken stocks (I was requested to fix a few of them) that occurred in loading stands similar to the one pictured below. If one insists on seating the patch ball while in a stand, the support needs to be directly in line with the centerline of the barrel (‘yellow’ arrow) and NOT on the butt of the pistol. Supporting only the butt while loading puts a lot of strain on the stock at the top of the grip and through the lock area (‘red’ circle’). You are basically forcing the butt towards the barrel, kind of like closing a book. The weak point is where the pistol grip joins the rest of the stock and through the lock area. I suggest avoiding using a stand when seating the patched roundball.
1649388772028.jpeg
 
Well, I HAVE used a loading stand made out of unfinished clear pine, but I mostly use that for revolvers these days. Haven't had any issues with either of my Patriots, (I have a .36 and a .45, but not the elusive .32). I don't shoot anything but patched round balls, and I size them for a fairly loose fit. They don't roll out of the bore, but I don't need a hammer to ram them either. The other thing to remember is that they are target pistols. Keep the loads LIGHT.
 
I'm not a pistol shooter, but bought mine for lock to use on a Senaca. After I got it I couldn't bring myself to part it out. The request for the TC stand design/pictures was more for a display and components (short starter, powder measure... storage). Thanks for all the information.
 
Back in the day, I saw plenty of TC Patriots with broken stocks (I was requested to fix a few of them) that occurred in loading stands similar to the one pictured below. If one insists on seating the patch ball while in a stand, the support needs to be directly in line with the centerline of the barrel (‘yellow’ arrow) and NOT on the butt of the pistol. Supporting only the butt while loading puts a lot of strain on the stock at the top of the grip and through the lock area (‘red’ circle’). You are basically forcing the butt towards the barrel, kind of like closing a book. The weak point is where the pistol grip joins the rest of the stock and through the lock area. I suggest avoiding using a stand when seating the patched roundball.
1649388772028.jpeg
What I did on my Patriot was remove the grip cap and drill a 5/16s hole clear up through the grip to just under the barrel tang, inject the hole with J-B Weld, inserted a 1/4 inch steel rod and force out all the bubbles. This will stop any stock breaking when using a loading stand and if accomplished correctly is invisible and impossible to detect until the grip cap is removed.
Generally this fix is not done until the stock cracks and a repair is needed but if it's done initially then no crack will likely ever happen.
 
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Makes sense to me! Would a long screw installed with a pilot hole have the same result?
Might work fine if the grip is tightly wrapped with some fiber tape to reinforce from splitting while the screw is being installed. I liked using the epoxy to fill all voids without possibility of splitting the stock grip and the adhesive uses the whole rod length not just the screw section for reinforcement. It bonds with the whole interior of the wood it's full length and supports clear to the barrel tang area.
One advantage with the screw is it can be removed if needs be for any reason.
 
I bought one years ago off Gun Broker and of course it was cracked. Mine seems to be from over tightening the lock screw. Is it possible to adjust the trigger? Mine is so light I can barely touch it and the set trigger is very hard to pull.
 
I bought one years ago off Gun Broker and of course it was cracked. Mine seems to be from over tightening the lock screw. Is it possible to adjust the trigger? Mine is so light I can barely touch it and the set trigger is very hard to pull.
Well, yeah, you could HAVE a trigger job done on it, but the fact that you are asking this question already tells me that you are not really very well qualified to do it. It probably needs some sear engagement work, but it could be something else. They have a similar lock... or maybe an identical lock as the T/C Cherokee and Seneca. I worked on my Cherokee lock once many years ago, but it can be finicky work. Find a good gunsmith and pay for his expertise.

Keep in mind that this is a TARGET pistol, not really intended to be carried in a holster with a cap on the nipple. You want a light trigger when you are trying to optimize accuracy on the range, not so much when you are shooting rabbits with a pistol. You really want that front trigger to be heavy... it is, after all, functionally a safety mechanism. You can't use it to fire the gun.

Just curious, how light in ounces is the firing trigger?
 
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