Technical Flintlock question

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Problem Child

40 Cal.
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I'm a percussion user but have been wanting a Flintlock. I have zero experience with a Flintlock.My question is this....In my state a percussion gun is considered unloaded when the cap is removed.How do you do this with a Flintlock?
 
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Stumpkiller said:
Remove the prime from the pan and put a (feather) quill in the vent.


Thanks.Would that make the gun safe enough to use in a treestand? (I would of course use a rope to pull the gun up.)
 
Remove the prime from the pan and put a (feather) quill in the vent.

The only thing I'd add, is that the frizzen has to be ALL the way open, as far as Michigan regs go.

The quill may help do that and helps keep powder dry.
 
completely safe in a tree stand or ground blind, or still hunting as long as the gun is in safe working order. Up and down outa the tree stand you dump the prime from the pan, sweep it out with your pan whisk, slip a small feather quill in the vent and lower the gun or raise the gun, which ever applies. While you are in your tree stand buckle up the safety harness, prime the gun, lower the frizzen after placing the cock in the half cock position.
 
Also, here's something you might consider to protect your lock while walking in and out of the woods in the dark, and/or raising/lowering it from a tree stand...a strong leather "cow’s knee".

I've used this one for 10+ years”¦made by Leatherman, it's inexpensive, strong, quick on & off.
http://possibleshop.com/s-s-flintlock-supplies.html

CowsKneebyLeatherman.jpg
 
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I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the flint had to be removed as well but that may certainly vary with the state. With recent discussions regarding discharges with empty pans that might be a defendable position. A feather in the TH is great safety and humidity protection as mentioned. As always, there is often a difference between legality and safety.
 
FPDoc said:
I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the flint had to be removed as well but that may certainly vary with the state. With recent discussions regarding discharges with empty pans that might be a defendable position....
That is, unfortunately, the case across Canada - Federal regulations, not provincial. No mention of plugging the touch-hole, cock down & hammer open, hammer-stall fitted, or even un-primed, just flint (or cap) removed.

ARRGGHHH!!!!!
Joel
 
As has been suggested, the definition of an 'unloaded' flintlock varies from state to state, and definitions are often different from reality as regards safety.

The NMLRA safe position requires the pan to be empty, the frizzen completely open and the hammer to be lowered. The half cock position is not safe and should not be used as such. I believe this condition would qualify in the majority of states, but to be sure you would need to seek an answer from the local authorities.

I would certainly add the quill in the touch hole if at all possible; it can't hurt and helps to keep the powder dry as well.
 
Think of a frizzen cover for your own safety. The touch hole can become exposed and granules of the main charge can come out (old way to hit the stock and get a priming charge).If you avoid the chance of a spark you will be a safer.
 
unloaded and safe to transport can vary state to state. but in general and getting in and out of tree stand. remove powder, open frizzen completely, and lower the cock all the way down to the fired position. For stocking still hunting a frizzen stall ie frizzen cover adds safety. cows knee keeps out the weather and derbies but not an extra level of safety.
 
greenmntmalitia said:
... cows knee keeps out the weather and derbies but not an extra level of safety.
I think that SOME cow's knees may add SOMEWHAT to safety, if the combination of fit and material are such that the cover reduces the chance of the cock catching on something and being accidentally brought to the full-cock position, or worse, pulled back past the fly then let slip.

Not a matter of safety but of utility, a lock cover may reduce the chance of the hammer/frizzen catching on something and dumping the prime.


Unrelated to the above, I recently read of a safety device used by the French military, at least early on in the flintlock era. It was a thick pad of leather that covered the pan and touch-hole, held in place by the lowered cock, and possibly attached to the trigger guard by a thong like one can the hammer-stall. It makes sense in a context where priming comes from the cartridge you're loading. I think it might be more secure but less convenient than a hammer-stall when carrying primed, especially when loaded for long periods, like on the march, but loses some utility when one can prime at any time from the horn/flask.

Regards,
Joel
 
Just remember legally and safely are two totally different things. :surrender: :surrender:
 
ohio ramrod said:
Just remember legally and safely are two totally different things. :surrender: :surrender:

That's it in a nutshell. And occasionally it is the decision of the DEC/DNR officer and well how he got along with his wife that morning.

A frizzen stall might be a good idea for the rope ride up into a treestand. It is a little leather sheath that slips over the frizzen and prevents the flint from striking it. A finger tip cut from a thick, old leather glove will do.
 
In Colorado hunting regs, a muzzleloader is considered unloaded if 1) there is no cap on a percussion rifle (which includes those new fangled thingys), or, 2) there is no prime in the pan of a flint rifle.

Whether that's really unloaded is another question. Point an arm with charge and projectile at me and you'll get spoken to sharply on this last occasion we will ever hunt together.

White Fox
 
Tony: In Mississippi, a flintlock is considered unloaded and safe for transportation with the pan empty- no prime in the pan. Common sense should tell you to take it a step further and plug the touchhole.
Be Well,
Bill Ridout
 
Can you please quote me chapter and verse in the firearms code where it says the flint has to be removed.Thanks
Cheers
 
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