Testing WD-40 against water patches. Which is cleaner?

[cjgregory]

@BP Addict - Walt, as stated that's somewhat misleading, so if you don't mind me adding a clarification.

The conclusion was from a test of 56 or more preservation solvents/solutions and it was not the basic WD-40 that out-performed them all, but it was their special and expen$ive ($15 for a 6.5-ounce can) "WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor" that was tested in long-term salt exposure sprays to be THE BEST of the best, along with a special RIG grease-based product, but the spray is easier to use, of course!

I use that WD-40 SCI on SS hardware and mechanisms on boats, as I maintain a fleet of boats used 24/7 in salt waters, and I can attest that it is THE best I've ever used for a spray or liquid product.

If I need a protectant/preservative grease, I'll use the blue-colored synthetic grease made/sold by or as OMC/Bombardier "Triple Guard" marine grease. That still protects even when compromised 30% with saltwater. In fact, I apply it to my MZL'dr barrels before pinning them in the barrel channel; it is quite thick, needs to be rubbed out to apply a thin coat, but it stays in place and it doesn't run. It's only $12 for a HUGE tub that lasts me many, many years, and I'll take care of over a dozen boats and motors in those years, plus 3 of my own. (Note this product wasn't tested in the large field test noted above.)

View attachment 360198

Note: Like others ... I just clean with good ol' water!

This makes more sense.
I would bet there’s graphite or maybe Teflon in it.

 

[SPQR70AD]

@BP Addict - Walt, as stated that's somewhat misleading, so if you don't mind me adding a clarification.

The conclusion was from a test of 56 or more preservation solvents/solutions and it was not the basic WD-40 that out-performed them all, but it was their special and expen$ive ($15 for a 6.5-ounce can) "WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor" that was tested in long-term salt exposure sprays to be THE BEST of the best, along with a special RIG grease-based product, but the spray is easier to use, of course!

I use that WD-40 SCI on SS hardware and mechanisms on boats, as I maintain a fleet of boats used 24/7 in salt waters, and I can attest that it is THE best I've ever used for a spray or liquid product.

If I need a protectant/preservative grease, I'll use the blue-colored synthetic grease made/sold by or as OMC/Bombardier "Triple Guard" marine grease. That still protects even when compromised 30% with saltwater. In fact, I apply it to my MZL'dr barrels before pinning them in the barrel channel; it is quite thick, needs to be rubbed out to apply a thin coat, but it stays in place and it doesn't run. It's only $12 for a HUGE tub that lasts me many, many years, and I'll take care of over a dozen boats and motors in those years, plus 3 of my own. (Note this product wasn't tested in the large field test noted above.)

View attachment 360198

Note: Like others ... I just clean with good ol' water!

I had RIG for a while and in the summer it would liquefy so I threw it out

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I had a hunting buddy use wd-40 to clean his shotgun. One cold morning goose hunting, a flock came over and he pulled the trigger. Heard a faint "click" and nothing. Firing pin was so gummed up it wouldn't strike the primer hard enough to fire! I stay away from it on firearms.

My father was actually told by a civilian armorer to use WD-40 on his shotgun actions. The actions looked like they had been preserved in parafin. After I took them all apart, and soaked them in solvent overnight, they worked fine.

I LIKE WD-40 to displace water, but when I get home, a thorough cleaning be it modern or flintlock, or caplock, is done.

LD

 

[SPQR70AD]

my friend was in the navy did dry dock work. they worked on a nuclear carrier and had 55 gal drums of WD 40 so they cleaned the props with it. it gummed up so bad the carrier was stranded at sea and had to be towed in. the 260,000 horse powered ship could not break the wax buildup

 

[omark]

Many years ago my basement flooded and in an effort to save all I could I grabbed a can of WD and sprayed my guns. Sometime later I went to clean them up and they all had a thick, sticky residue all over them. At the time I didn't know there was more than one kind of WD so I can't say what it was. Probably just what I grabbed at Walmart.

 

[omark]

As a penetrant, if used as a lube, it has been known to penetrate and contaminate cartridges also.

 

[SPQR70AD]

if US has another war it should spray WD 40 all over the enemy's jets, tanks, ships, artillery, radar, missiles etc. it would paralyze all their hardware which would lead them to surrender. I call it WMD-40

 

[SPQR70AD]

Many years ago my basement flooded and in an effort to save all I could I grabbed a can of WD and sprayed my guns. Sometime later I went to clean them up and they all had a thick, sticky residue all over them. At the time I didn't know there was more than one kind of WD so I can't say what it was. Probably just what I grabbed at Walmart.

WMD-40 when it is made for walmart for some reason to make it cheaper they add molasses to the formula

 

[CyrusP]

I don’t know who that shooter was making all those hits, but whoever you are, you’d better return Mark to us safely!

 

[omark]

Well, I didn't think about tasting it. LOL

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

WMD-40 when it is made for walmart for some reason to make it cheaper they add molasses to the formula

Hopefully you said that in jest ... as it doesn't align to the Safety Data Sheets (SDSs) that are mandated by Federal Law for any version of the solvent.

 

[SPQR70AD]

Hopefully you said that in jest ... as it doesn't align to the Safety Data Sheets (SDSs) that are mandated by Federal Law for any version of the solvent.

yes I did if you read my posts they were all sarcasm like when I said it is WMD-40. the guy I replied to said his guns had a thick sticky residue from WMD-40. please dont call the feds on me lol

 

[hanshi]

I clean with water and use an alcohol patch followed by a WD40 patch then another alcohol patch. At that point it is both dry and clean. For rust prevention I use either "Barricade" or "CLP".