- Joined
- Mar 13, 2020
- Messages
- 7,450
- Reaction score
- 20,870
- Location
- On the Border in Idaho looking at BC
finally have the gun in my trembling hands! i got it about noon yesterday and had it completely disassembled by three Oclock. the lock was so gummed up it wouldn't hold on cock, but would on half cock.
took the lock apart and cleaned it. gently. then i polished off the rust only on the actual bearing/rubbing areas. cleaned a spoonfull of crud out of the full cock notch and got the fly working.
i may make a new tumbler or i may make a insert for the axel as there is considerable wear there. i may just splash coat the axel with babbit and use it as it is.
anyway i built what i envisioned was what what was needed to fire the smooth bore/lower barrel. works like it was meant to!
there is much evidence of past repairs or sloppy techniques as far as soldiering goes. lots of soldier where it is hidden by the ramrod.
here is a picture of the hammer extension i made. i think there was a flat spring on the back side of the hammer to push the nose out to align it with the bottom nipple. with both nipples capped, it fires the top cap, then with the top fired cap removed it will fire the bottom cap. slick setup.
the cotter pin is temporary, i need to make a pin with a flared head tomorrow to replace the cotter. both # 11 and # 10 caps fit the nipples.
the rifled bore has good rifling in it but plenty of rust. doesn't appear to have any real pits though. the smooth bore has lots of rust and a couple suspected pits.
the rifle bore is .335 and the smooth bore is .532.
of course both barrels are 30 inches long.
the rifled barrel is .910 at the breech and reverse tapers to .921 at the muzzle!
the smooth bore barrel is .948 at the breech, octagonal, tapers to .875 10 1/2 inches long with a wedding ring, then round with a diameter of .854 at the wedding ring, tapering to .785 at the muzzle.
i also straightened the ram rod . it is hickory with a bugle on the muzzle end and a brass pinned ball screw covered by a threaded extension at the breech end. breech end. will be posting more pictures as this progresses.
took the lock apart and cleaned it. gently. then i polished off the rust only on the actual bearing/rubbing areas. cleaned a spoonfull of crud out of the full cock notch and got the fly working.
i may make a new tumbler or i may make a insert for the axel as there is considerable wear there. i may just splash coat the axel with babbit and use it as it is.
anyway i built what i envisioned was what what was needed to fire the smooth bore/lower barrel. works like it was meant to!
there is much evidence of past repairs or sloppy techniques as far as soldiering goes. lots of soldier where it is hidden by the ramrod.
here is a picture of the hammer extension i made. i think there was a flat spring on the back side of the hammer to push the nose out to align it with the bottom nipple. with both nipples capped, it fires the top cap, then with the top fired cap removed it will fire the bottom cap. slick setup.
the cotter pin is temporary, i need to make a pin with a flared head tomorrow to replace the cotter. both # 11 and # 10 caps fit the nipples.
the rifled bore has good rifling in it but plenty of rust. doesn't appear to have any real pits though. the smooth bore has lots of rust and a couple suspected pits.
the rifle bore is .335 and the smooth bore is .532.
of course both barrels are 30 inches long.
the rifled barrel is .910 at the breech and reverse tapers to .921 at the muzzle!
the smooth bore barrel is .948 at the breech, octagonal, tapers to .875 10 1/2 inches long with a wedding ring, then round with a diameter of .854 at the wedding ring, tapering to .785 at the muzzle.
i also straightened the ram rod . it is hickory with a bugle on the muzzle end and a brass pinned ball screw covered by a threaded extension at the breech end. breech end. will be posting more pictures as this progresses.