THE End- Lube War

:haha: :haha: Spilled it on the floor huh? :blah:
Yup that's gotta be a mess. I'll go you a couple better stories. Talk about STUPID!
I made mine in a mason jar on the electric stove. Mason jars can take the heat, no problem.
The b-wax melted fine, everythig was o.k. when I added the castor oil, BUTTTTTT....when I added the cold Murhpy's to the mix, the jar CRACKED on the stove. Ooooopppp.s
The jar didn't leak, but the bottom was cracked all the way around. Talk about delicately mixing with the fork! Then verrrrrry carefully, with a pot holder, picked up the hot jar/mix, and sucessfully poured it in the moulds. Whew. That could have been a real smokey mess if it all spilled on the hot burner.
Then there was the first time I made home brewed patch lube using way too much beeswax. The stuff smelled good and I poured in it muffin tins. The (ex) wife came home and thort I'd made "parummed" home made soap. Without me knowing she took a shower with the stuff! :haha: :haha:
You know how hard it is getting beeswax and Crisco out of Looooong dark hair. :curse: :curse:
Boy was in in deep doo-doo. :redface:
Maybe that's way she's an EX. :blah: :blah:

 

Just for general information those of you interested in making your own lube might try eBay. I bought 10 pounds for 36 bucks and change and that included shipping. It was clean in one pound blocks at around 3.60 a pound it's pretty cheap. The downside is that 10 pounds if a LOT of beeswax! ::

You looking to turn loose a couple of pounds of that hoard? If so, I'm in for two! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Stumpkiller]

Oh, I've done worse. Turned on my electric lead furnace and wandered off to do something (A BIG NO NO!) Came back to the smell of wood burning and the mould and handles were entoumbed in about 15 lbs of lead that looked like candle drippings (the bottom spout was apparantly opened whan the lead I had left inside cooled and shrunk). Now I only leave a few pounds in the bottom between uses.

Made a batch of rhubarb wine and the 11 gallon plastic pail I was fermenting it in had to be moved from the kitchen to the cooler cellar after a month. Picked it up - and the bottom split. Sticky city.

 

Mine came out nice and creamy, but needs more beeswax. It's a bit thin, maybe, as even when almost cool in the tins, it remained almost liquid in the centre for a while.
; In the freezer for 2 hours, the stuff in the can was fairly hard, just like the Mink Oil from Track, but the lubed patches remained plyable - looks good - thanks.
; It's supposed to go up to 70F tomorrow, so I'll see if it reliquifies at room temp. It's only 65F in the house and the lube is solid but soft in the can.

 

[musketman]

BUTTTTTT....when I added the cold Murhpy's to the mix, the jar CRACKED on the stove. Ooooopppp.s

What you do is heat the Murhpy's Oil Soap in a sepperate jar in a water bath, this will prevent the cold Murhpy's from shocking the heated pre-moose mixture.

Something like this will do the job nicely...

Here's a silly question that has nothing to do with how it works, what color is it?

Lime green would be great to go along with the product's name...

 

[roundball]

It's supposed to go up to 70F tomorrow :shocking: :shocking:

Lord, it only got DOWN to 70 here last night...back up now with a heat index over 100 !!
I got up early this morning, drove 30 miles to the range, was setting up by 7:00am...finished and left by 9:00am...home inside the garage cleaning the rifle by 10:00 before it got into the mid-90"s !!

 

WHat color is it? Well, you know the yllow of beeswax, cator oil is clear, Murhpy's a sorta golden brown.
The lube comes out lookin' like very pale beeswax, sorta like a slightly brown Crisco.
I gotta Idea-er. MAKE YERSELF SUM! :haha:

 

Mine is a very, very, light tan almost white. The beeswax I used was of poor quality, being very pale and probably a mix of parafin and beeswax.
; The moose snot, when on your fingers, cannot be easily wiped off- it sticks very well & of coure, repells water.
: In the freezer, it feels solid in the can or container, however patches thorougly lubed with it, remain plyable and soft. As I indicdated, mine might need some more beeswax, but remains fairly solid, about like hand cream, at room temp. I cooked mineup on the kitchen stove & didn't even make a mess - this time.
: I like it, smells nice due to the oil soap's smell & from the tests already done - works.
; Oh yeah, I ordered a .725" RB mould from Jeff Tanner just to have a true 12 bore ball for the .75. The mould should cast a .727" WW ball, which is true 12 bore size, I believe.
Daryl

 

[buckknife]

Well i made a batch,2 small batches broke down into grams.One stumpys with beeswax and the other canen parifin.I like stumpys mix. Came out good texture.The parifin one is softer,would probable need more wax.By weight it had more volume than the beeswax,an took fer ever to melt.Probably wont mess with the parfin batch.
I dont have much real beeswax left,maybe enough to fill a altoids round tin when the brew would be made.Found some beeswax at walley world in the crafts section.Its yellow but dont have the smell of the other stuff,melted easy.It comes in 1/2 once container that your supposed to stick a sewen needle in.Guess they need lube too ::
It may be that theres some parifin or something in it also,wont know to it[url] cools.In[/url] the fridge right now.Hopefully it willbe the same.The beeswax i got cost 77 cents a container.2 of them and 4 once of caster an a tablespoon of murphys gave me enough to fill a altoids round tin and 3 cap tins an still had enough left to fill a couple more probably.I hope it comes out the same texture as the sample batch.If it dont i will have to go get some real beeswax.
Took some thick pillow ticklen that mics out at 25 to 15.This would never fit the bore of the 36 with out rippen the patch,but with stumpys lube on it i gave it a whack and started it a little,grabed the material with a plyers an pulled it out,no rips or streched fabric.Ball looked like it sould also.
Im gonna giver a try in the 36 when i can,might be a spell where 2 weeks from vaction shutdown an into a lot of over time.I think you came up with a good lube stumpkiller.The caster oil maybe what has been missen in most lubes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

Jest made me 'nuther 4 oz. batch, well it's more'n 4 oz's. 'cause tha caster oil come in 4 oz. bottles, add about an oz. er 2 of b-wax, tables spoon 'er so Murhpy's and the stuff comes out 'bout the same both times I've made 'er.
Time to test with conicals!

 

[buckknife]

The wally world wax didnt work.Must be part parifin.Came out way too thin.Dumped it an made a batch with the real beeswax,should come out like the sample.Thpught maybe the sewen wax could work in a pinch but at .77 cents a half once could get real expensive,but didnt work anyways.I have 2 onces of beeswax,if it shoots good i can get it from a health food store.8.00 bucks a half pound.If i come to use it often i can check the local beekeepers an see if their willen to part with some,be down right cheap most likley.
a tin full looks like it would go far.
Maxi your gonna have to start buyen the caster oil by the gallen,mix with a quart of melted beeswax an how ever many spoons of murphys an you will have enough to last yer self a life time an you will nnever have to buy peperation H agin either :haha:

 

[buckknife]

Ah this batch came out perfect.Have 2 altiod round tins 3/4 full an 3 cap tins full an enough wax to do it all one more time when needed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

It's the Castol Oil that's expensive here. I paid $17.00 for a US quart, and that's a small quart, 32ounces only, compared to a 40 ounce Imperial quart.
; That was from Sig mfg. & is meant for mixing up glow engine fuel. The Racing Castor in MC shops, runs $8.95 per 10 ounce bottle. That's well over $25.00 per quart.
: Dang stuff's expensive, but a little goes a long way - on patches.

 

you will never have to buy peparation H again either :haha:

Not only can you save money on prepartion H, but Stumpy's Stuff makes a GREAT laxitive, it's realtively tasteless, works great for chapped hands, lips, sunburn ointment, is a fantastic degeaser, cleans up greasy grimy hands, very little skin peels off, not painful so you don't notice it. For you dairy farmers, throw away the Bag Balm, Stumpy's Stuff is great for udders.
This is also a high temp. grease. Think about it. Castor oil is the base ingredient, over 90% of it is castor oil and castor oil is the main ingredient in racing engine oil!
By the way. I spilled a dab on the kitchen stove, tried wiping it up but it was so slick the paper towel flew right out of my hand. An ant walked across the stove slid on the stuff and shot clean out the back door.
Now THAT'S SLICK!
By the way. Castor oil penetrates very well, add the Murphy's and it's no wonder you barrel cleans up so easy.
Stumpy, you need to copy write this and market it. I doubt it qualifies for a patent, but copy write the ingreients and the name.
Frankly I like "Stumpy's Stuff" better'n Moose Snot.
How abut "wonder Lube" or "Natural Lube 1000", naw already taken.......how 'bout "Super Slick" patch lube, the laxative for your gun barrel! :haha: :bull:

 

[musketman]

Anyone want to take a stab at the shelf-life on Stumpie's Moose Magic?

I have a jar of Wonderlube that separated after a few seasons of idle sitting in the basement.

I think someone should shelf a tin of this and report back periodatically on it's consisticy and see if it remains in tact, maybe call it: PART 3, shelf life...

 

Since I only use greases for hunting, not target shooting, I'm certain one of the "Snot" containers I have will be around for years. I can do that but will need periodic reminders, I guess.
; I might even try mixing some Mink Oil with Castor & Murphy's if needed. That might be another mix for cold weather, better than it already is. It would take much less of the expensive oil as it's already fairly soft, except when frozen. On patches, it still shoots well in freezing wether, but I haven't tested it below -40C. yeah - it was a cold hunt but hit centre after being loaded for 3 days.
: Why, the moose were so cold, they had to walk slowly so their legs wouldn't break off. :bull:

 

[buckknife]

I got the food grade at the drugstore.1.50 for 4 onces.Which would be 12 bucks a quart.Not cheap i guess but when im only maken a 5 ounce batch of stumpys stuff it seems cheap when its poured into the tins an sets up.Dang i wish i could get out an shoot sum.90 degrees here today,i probably wouldnt of last long out there anyways.

 

[roundball]

Maxi, I believe you may want to consider starting a new thread...this thing called "The End" is running on like the everyready bunnie! :: ::
Maybe the new thread could be called: Post Test Lube Summary

 

I agree with roundball, we need a new thread called (lubed wars-the summary).

All this playing around with different concoctions we need to know which mixture is best for patches, which one is best for conical and which would be best to be made into preformed tubes for bullet lube-sizer's ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif :: :snore: