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The ideal patch knife.

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Joe Yanta

45 Cal.
Joined
Sep 13, 2004
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I would like to try my hand at making a patch knife. What is your opinion on what the ideal patch knife should be as far as handle material, steel type and blade shape. I would also like to know how and where your carry your rig.

Now if you dont want to spend a lot of time typing maybe a picture would say it all. :thumbsup:

Any help and guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Joe Yanta
 
:hmm: In my seventy four years, I have seen patch knives made fom about everything, Almost anything that will take and hold an edge will do. I have seen them made from table knives and from glass shards.Some have been mase from buggy springs and some from flint . It's up to you to display your ingenuity. Bob
 
I might say that I've become partial to a neck sheath as far as sheaths go. Blade style and material...like lonesomebob said...up to you and anything that will hold an edge.
 
I was asking myself that very question the other day. While crusing through the local hardware store I chanced up on some Old Hickory knives. These knives are pretty much the same as what was used in the early 19th cen. Got two of the paring knives about 3 inch blades and figure on swapping the wood handles for antler and I'm set.
 
One I've used and like(still use it) is an old bone handled kitchen knife(table knife) of the period that had been broken about midway down the blade. I filed it down to a sheepsfoot or Dutch style shape and carry it in a neck sheath. Suprised me just how well it holds an edge. With the thinness and flatness of the blade it works real well. YMHS Birdman
 
I made this knife many years ago. The blade is from a trap spring and the handle is stained hickory. It takes a very good edge, has cut a thousand patches and done some deer gutting jobs not to mention field dressing a lot of squirrels.

Most of the time it's carried in a rawhide neck sheath. Sometines it's carried in a sheath attached to the back of a double shooting bag that I made.

trap%20spring%20knife.JPG


Rawhide-sheath.jpg
 
Joe,
I have seen some of your work and this will
most certainly not interest you but my current
range patch knife is a straight-razor with
ivory handles(I know that is a :nono:) I have been able to date it back to somewhere between
1875-1890. So i guess I'm OK on the ivory. I got
it at an auction for $26 about 12 or 13 years
ago. I have been offered $75 for it so I keep
researching. Somebody out there knows more than I do for sure about straight razors but iI am
catching up.
snake-eyes :hmm:
 
Here's my "unauthentic" but favored patch knife:

Moosestuff.jpg


patches.jpg


It's a 3-1/2" Norwegian laminated steel blade (about $12 at T.O.T.W.) and a section of whitetail antler from one of my own. The small guard is a pewter button pounded flat and filed to shape. The pin is a finishing nail. I filled the drilled hole for the tang with hide-glue and sawdust before pinning the blade in place. Only hard part was getting the hole in the tang of the blade (ended up with a diamond burr and my Dremel - that steel is HARD!). The jimping on the spine I did with a chansaw sharpening file.

It's small enough to be easy to carry and large enough to dress out a deer.
 
In my mind, an ideal patch knife is suitably only for cutting a patch at the muzzle.

I do not like to have an additional sheath, so I like a knife that will not stab me through my bag or endanger my hand as I grope about for items in the bag. Therefore, I like a blunt ended knife of good steel that has a half circle clip taken out of the edge side and only that clip is sharpened to a razor's edge. The clipped opening catches the gathered cloth and cuts quickly. This makes cutting at the muzzle a quick and easy matter.

CS
 
The little bitty knives are neat, but I just can't use them at all. I use a 5" belt knife (which is good for just about everything). This one was made by Scott Summerville. Full tang, drop edge basic design. I put antler handle scales on it (when pressing a ball into the bore with the side of the knife handle, even the hardest wood gets dented up). :winking:
 
I kind of agree there. In practice, I carry a 5" and a 10" on my belt and the 5" gets used as a knife to cut the patches, even though it's not what you'd call a patch knife. I think that was most often the case. A "scalper" or belt knife was used for all.

HaversackandPollAxe.jpg


Mine is a full tang piece of steel from a plow coulter stuck in a whitetail antler crown. Wearing it on my belt also helps keep my shot bag from riding forward when I bend down.
 
Maybe I am way off base here, but I just do not carry a special knife just to cut patches with. I have looked at lots of pictures, read lots of books, and given it lots of thought. I just do not find a historical record for a special knife to cut a patch with. So, I use my belt knife just keep a good sharp edge on it.
 
from time-to-time, Smokey Mtn Knifeworks has Pakistan made straight razors for about $3..The plastic handle comes off easily, the 'spur' on the blade comes off with a Dremel cutting wheel, and a tine of antler for a handle makes a good patch knife. For a while, you could pick up straight razors, old ones, at flea markets, but I haven't seen one in a couple of years..I hear they are now "collectibles"..Hank
 
Wow, you fellas have some really fine knives there. Everyone of them is unique. I've drooled at them and have been envious. I think this is what I am going to have as my patch knife.

img_0058.jpg


This is a primitve Nessmuk I forged from very thin 3/32 inch 1095 steel. It is blood curtling sharp and will cut your eye if you just look at the edge straight on. Nessmuk carried a knife simular to this on the back of his shooting pouch. What I have read from his writings he used the knife for more than one purpose too. I like the idea of having a tool do more than just one specialized task.

Thanks for all your replies and pictures, I enjoy them.

Joe
 
Swampman said:
The best patch knife is none at all.

Why do you go out of your way to be negative? If you have nothing to offer to answer the man's question, why do you even respond? What is your point in telling the man that his question has no merit?

I know it's not my place to be saying this, but if you have nothing to offer, you could just keep your counter-productive comments to yourself.

When some asks a question, it's not necessary to tell them that you have nothing to offer.
 
A bit touchy this fine morning, eh? Cold weather and old bones will do that, to me at least.
Jokes and such are OK with me. And good advice from an experienced man is welcome, even if it runs counter to what most folks think.
 
rich pierce said:
A bit touchy this fine morning, eh? Cold weather and old bones will do that, to me at least.
Jokes and such are OK with me. And good advice from an experienced man is welcome, even if it runs counter to what most folks think.

I agree. Good advice is always welcomed. But...

I'm sorry, I just don't see the point in adding a negative comment that isn't even on topic. Here's my frustrated assessment...

QUESTION:"I would like to try my hand at making a patch knife. What is your opinion on what the ideal patch knife should be as far as handle material, steel type and blade shape. I would also like to know how and where your carry your rig.

Now if you dont want to spend a lot of time typing maybe a picture would say it all.

Any help and guidance would be appreciated."


ANSWER: "The best patch knife is none at all."

This answer says to me, "Forget your question, you shouldn't be making one in the first place."

What the hell kind of attitude is that? Is it me or is this the kind of help people should expect on this forum?

I could see it if the question was, "Is a patch knife necessary", but even then, you should explain why and not just say NO.

I guess I see so many helpful replies here that this one just struck me as counter productive. The guy wants to make a knife and he's told to forget it. :shake:
 

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