The Kentucky Has a Brown Bore

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Josh Smith

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Hello Folks,

Got to really cleaning the KY tonight as it wasn't coming all the way clean. I ran a dry patch down it when I first got it and it came out streaked with brown, but figured no big deal.

Hit it with some CLP, and I started getting some black grime out. Hit it with penetrating oil (Fluid Film) again, and started getting more rust. It's like it's layered.

I've encountered this with non-chrome lined C&R battle rifles in the past. They shoot just fine but the bore never comes all the way clean.

I do usually get good results using weak acetic acid (usually just vinegar) in this instance.

Question is, should I be concerned at all? It's shooting just fine, and the rifling is sharp. It's only the brown bore which gives me pause, and it may just be perfectly normal for this type of rifle.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Josh

P.S. I already did the scouring thing with steel wool. I really don't want to do that much more as I'm not a fan of using abrasive stuff in the bore. Thanks again, J.S.
 
No, don't over worry the problem. Just stay on top of it.
Seem's once rust get's started it stays there on the miroscopic level in the porous steel, not a big deal as long as you stop it from continueing it's progress.
I use petroleum based oils to coat the inside of the barrel, a good gun oil is fine, or you can use one of the secret mojo cure all recipies I'm sure you'll hear. If in long term storage, over a month, it's a good idea to run an oil patch down the bore every so often, Your a gun nut, you know the drill.
Just be sure to clean the oils out before it's fired again.(brake cleaner-Rubbing or Denatured alcohol)
If it's shooting fine leave'er be, further aggressive attempts to remove the rust could have negitive results.
 
Mike Brines said:
Been shooting poopodex?

Nope. And my conclusion about Pyrodex is this: It doesn't promote rust any more than black. It's just harder to ignite, and for this reason I don't like it.

Josh
 
necchi said:
No, don't over worry the problem. Just stay on top of it.
Seem's once rust get's started it stays there on the miroscopic level in the porous steel, not a big deal as long as you stop it from continueing it's progress.
I use petroleum based oils to coat the inside of the barrel, a good gun oil is fine, or you can use one of the secret mojo cure all recipies I'm sure you'll hear. If in long term storage, over a month, it's a good idea to run an oil patch down the bore every so often, Your a gun nut, you know the drill.
Just be sure to clean the oils out before it's fired again.(brake cleaner-Rubbing or Denatured alcohol)
If it's shooting fine leave'er be, further aggressive attempts to remove the rust could have negitive results.

Hi Necchi,

Thanks. I won't worry about it then, just prevent future rust.

I'm not a fan of petroleum based cleaners - even in my smokeless guns I don't use 'em - but I'll keep the option open.

Fluid Film will get under rust and protect the steel that is there, so I'll just use that. Eventually I expect the bore to come clean! :D

Thanks,

Josh
 
Have you been using bore butter? When I used to use it I could never get the black out. Now I use crisco, clean with hot soapy water, and oil the bore for storage.
 
If that's a fouling buildup from interaction with your lube, rather than rust, I've never found anything better than brake pad cleaner for restoring a shiny bore. Once you've done that, it's likely easier to maintain with a change in lubes.
 
Mike Brines said:
...and all I know is that I never had problems until I used it.

Regardless, this rifle has never seen Pyrodex, Mike.

Maybe it's just the time of year: It's cold and dry.

I've got two pounds of the stuff, then I found I have a black powder supplier less than 10 miles away :thumbsup: Wish I knew the shelf life as I'd just put the Pyrodex up for now, and use it as a backup. As is, I guess I could stump blast with it.

Josh
 
Stubert said:
Have you been using bore butter? When I used to use it I could never get the black out. Now I use crisco, clean with hot soapy water, and oil the bore for storage.

Hello,

I use a 50/25/25 Crisco/lanolin/beeswax mixture. No problems in the other rifles.

Only put petroleum down it once, in the form of CLP. That was last night while playing with different mixtures to take this out.

It's been soaking in penetrating oil for near on 24 hours now. 'Bout time to change it out, I think.

Thanks,

Josh
 
BrownBear said:
If that's a fouling buildup from interaction with your lube, rather than rust, I've never found anything better than brake pad cleaner for restoring a shiny bore. Once you've done that, it's likely easier to maintain with a change in lubes.

Brake cleaner, eh? I used to be an auto tech (one of my many jobs, just call me Tinker) and always thought that stuff too caustic on bores.

Regardless, this rifle had been sitting dry since the '70s or '80s and I'm pretty sure it's rust. Found enough down in the breech area to safely make that assumption. Not a lot, mind you, but it was there and it was a bit furry. Didn't look like the breech was cleaned all the way before it was put up.

Thanks!

Josh
 
Hello,

Just swabbed out the rest of the fluid film. Brown stuff came with it. I seem to have now hit a charcoal layer that I plan on letting dry before hitting it with brake cleaner, or maybe creosote cleaner if it doesn't look like it will hurt the steel.

Best part is that the drag is fading. There was a definite tug on my cleaning patches and patched round balls that is no longer present.

I really like archaeology... just not in gun barrels! :D

Josh
 
I've never had brake pad cleaner affect the metal or finish, but man. Does it ever clean an accumulation out of a bore! It's about the only thing I know of that reliably removes the shipping grease from Lyman bores. I don't know what they're using, but it defies every other solvent I've tried. It's saved more than a few "shot out" bores that had been used for years with Bore Butter.
 
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