The ultimate patch lube

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With a very limited trial, my experience with Ballistol/Water, 50/50 did not work well for me. I tried it at the range, shooting 5 times before cleaning. By the 5th shot, I could barely get the RB down the barrel. Have never had this problem with any of the other lubes. For just me, I will work with other lubes.
:thumbsup:
 
The problem is not the lube( ballistol). Its rather in your not cleaning after every shot. Go back to wonderlube, and follow Roundball's advice. I can't get my gun to fire cleanly, or accurately to my standards, NOT cleaning between shots. However, Roundball swears he shoots 50 shots every saturday morning and doesn't clean between shots, using
Wonderlube.
 
i can shoot 50 shots w/o swabbing while using ANY LL (i like 409).

my tallow lube lets me by at 10 or 12 shots before swabbing.

on a shooting course i'll go back and forth with my lubes, so i never technically swab.

Thee most important shot always comes out of a clean barrel. :v
 
If the problem is not the lube, but the fact that I'm not cleaning between shots, why do the other lubes like Moose Snot or what I call Jim's Lube (water soluble,liquid soap, mineral oil & water) work just fine without cleaning between shots? With those, the build-up is minor. I have been using them for some time, then thought I would try the ballistol/water lube and did not have good luck. It was extremely gunky and hard to get a ball down.
:confused:
 
If you were to use Ballistol, or any other liquid lube directly on your patches, you would also have little problem with the subsequent loadings. Don't go mixing processes, as you have done here.

You are using a " dry lube " patch formula, altho most people use a ratio of 1: 5-7, rather than a 50.50 mix on their dry lube patchs. Any time you are working with " dry " patches, you are going to have trouble getting enough lube down the barrel to continue shooting without cleaning between shots. The dry lube formulas were designed to adequate lube the patches so that the patch does not burn, and enough lube is put on the barrel to soften the residue so it can be easily cleaned after each shot. These dry lube formulas also have a good history of providing the best accuracy when shooting the PRB. Spend $15.00 to buy Dutch Schoultz's BlackPowder Accuracy System.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

Dutch not only shows you what to look for, and why, but will explain the advantages of his dry lube formula for getting accuracy. You will learn a lot about shooting PRB in Mlers, and it will be the best $15.00 you have ever spent on this hobby.

If you are NOT going to clean between shots, then try 100 % ballistol on your patches just before you put the PRB down the barrel. If you are going to leave that PRB in the barrel for several hours, or all day, you will want to use an OP wad to protect the powder from being spoiled by the oil from the patch. But for range shooting, oil the patch, load, and fire the gun. Depending on relative humidity, you should be able to shoot all day using Ballistol the same way you would use wonderlube.
 
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paulvallandigham said:
If you were to use Ballistol, or any other liquid lube directly on your patches, you would also have little problem with the subsequent loadings. Don't go mixing processes, as you have done here.
I'm not sure what you mean by this. I was using the 50/50 Ballistol/Water directly on my patches. That's when I had the problem. But, aside from that, I had already found a lube that worked well for me and just decided to experiment. I really had no reason to switch and will go back to the lube that works well for me. Thanks.
:thumbsup:
 
YOu have been given a lot of advice, and it sounds like you mixed them up. The Dry Lube formulas call for a ratio of ballistol( Or other liquids ) to water. The patching material is then allowed to dry. Dry lubes almost never are adequate enough to allow a shooter to shoot continuously without cleaning between shot. Dry patch lubes were never meant to give you that capability.

If you don't want to clean between shots, then you need to go back to another lube. Wonderlube, in all its incarnations, does the trick under many weather conditions, but not all. Some humidity seems to help, so it doesn't work well in arid climates( high mountains) or in the below freezing temperatures where the air also is very dry. It may not work very well even when the temperature is in the low 40s, and 30s, as the water molecule is the most DENSE at 37.5 degrees F.

That is what I meant. I hope you now understand my comments. Take your time experimenting.

Like many new shooters, you seem to want to master all of this business of loading shooting and cleaning a flintlock in a couple of hours. It has taken most of us many years to learn how to do these things correctly, and to sort out different techniques for different shooting conditions. Almost all of us have much experience in the school of hard knocks, having to learn lessons by trial and error. We did not have a group of well educated experts to tell us what to do in a few words on a computer message.

So, please read the comments carefully, and write them down in your own handwriting. Be sure you understand the parameters of advice before applying it. One of the reasons we now shoot guns with fixed ammo is that we can relieve the shooter from any concern about how ammo is created or loaded, so he can just concentrate on his shooting skills. Not so, with MLers. You are both learning to shoot, and to ReLOAD ammo with these guns. I know hundreds of modern gun shooters who have had NO experience reloading ammo, casting bullets, and working with different components to find the best load for their guns. They simply shoot what they buy off the store shelf. If it seems to shoot to the same POI and give them good groups, they buy more of the same ammo. When they see someone on the range loading a MLer, they are aghast- curious, often-- but aghast at all that goes into shooting these things. :thumbsup:

If you are going to stop using Ballistol for a patch lube altogether, after only these few shots, I think you are mistaken. At the very least, use Ballistol as a rust preventative, when you clean the gun for storage between trips to the range or field. Its one of the very best rust inhibitors that have been tested here. Store your rifle muzzle down, so that any excess oil flows out of the barrel, rather than back down into the vent hole, or flashchannel. Use a cleaning patch soaked in alcohol to wipe the bore free of the Ballistol before you load and fire the first shot.
 
John L.

It’s nice to see your return.

The “best” of anything is very subjective, depending on your experience and biases. The best is what you currently are doing or own.

If you wander the line at Phoenix, Friendship or Brady TX, there is a definite preference for teflon patches, record scores.

I appreciate Claude wanting to remain traditional, but Windex in a spray bottle is not traditional.

A member of TMLRA was commenting that the longer his rifle was loaded, the lower it would shoot. He was using a liquid patch lube. Thus a test was in order. The rifle was loaded and remain sitting for an hour, 3 hours, 5 hours and 8 hours. With each additional time frame, the lower the rifle would shoot on the target.

Inquiring minds wondered, out comes the chrony and the test was done the next day. The longer the rifle remained loaded, the lower it would shoot and the lower the feet per second.

Another test was ordered, Teflon patches and repeat. Amazing, the drop was eliminated and the feet per second remained the same over the day.

The problem with liquid patch lube is, that it soaks into the powder and it’s difficult to put the exact same amount on each patch each time. Consistency is the answer to accuracy.

The definitive answer is, the patch lube that is the best is the one you use that you are happy with.

RDE
 
deano, I don't think that paulV caught your drift, but to me it seemed that you were using the 50/50 as a liquid lube. I'm surprised you had a problem but then I have never used ballistol in any form so it's a foreign substance to me.

I do find that a simple mixture of water and liquid kitchen dish soap at 8 to 1 makes an easy loading system and requires no wiping. In a match I actually squeeze it onto my patch and count the drips from my little squeeze bottle so as to maintain some consistency. I can shoot all day without wiping the bore although I'm inclined to wipe it out between relays. Get the same results with hoppes #9 solvent/lube which I finally tried after reading Roundball's continuos raving about it.

The water/soap is only used when the rifle will be loaded and fired immediately as in a match so as to avoid drying out or causing any corrosion. The Hoppes seems ok to be left loaded.

I shot the tc1000+ for many years and got good results when I applied it consistently. Only under rare conditions of high humidity was I ever able to shoot the 1000+ without wiping. In 1992 I fired a two day match at 9,000 feet in the co rockies without wiping all day both days. The weather was overcast with a constant light drizzle and mist so that pretty much addresses the humidity thing. The problem then becomes consistency and even though I did pretty well in that match, i decided to just go to wiping between shots regardless of the humidity.

I've also found that it's easy to shoot without wiping using the "moose milk" made of cutting oil. It worked fine for me anywher from 5 to 1 up to 10 to 1 as a wet lube shot without wiping and very good as a 5 to 1 dry lube which absolutely requres wiping between shots. FWIW, I always seemed to get a persistent brown crud in my bore any time I used the cutting oil or anything with Murphy's oil soap in it!

In the end, the ultimate lube is, IMO, the one that works best for the way a person shoots. Hinnant likes the teflon and it apparently is an Ultimate lube for serious match shooters. Some guys like me are not that serious and are ok with a wet "no wipe" lube for match shooting. It's very conveniant and simple which makes it my "ultimate" lube.

For many years my only lube was crisco. I wiped after every shot with whatever bp solvent I had at hand and did well in matches or hunting. It's still a great big game hunting lube IMO since wiping between shots in not a big issue, no corrosion, and if applied sparingly and consistently, no powder contamination and good accuracy. In a very limited amount of experimenting, plain old lard worked just like crisco.

All in all, I've come down to applying the KISS (Keep It Simple Shooter) system without sacraficing anything.

Also, I get the impression that you are an experienced long-time shooter and this info is not new to you at all. I'm just throwing it out along with my reply to you so as to put it out there for the consideration of less experienced shooters. Mine is not the only answer but it is tried and true!

Good shooting!
 
marmotslayer said:
deano, I don't think that paulV caught your drift, but to me it seemed that you were using the 50/50 as a liquid lube. I'm surprised you had a problem but then I have never used ballistol in any form so it's a foreign substance to me.
You have it. I have a lube I am totally happy with, but decided to experiment with Ballistol as a wet lube. I have seen posts that have professed the 50/50 to be a workable wet lube, so I decided to try it. It didn't work for me, so I am going back to the one that works for me. Thanks everyone! By the way, I'm still fairly new compared to everyone else.
:thumbsup:
 
anyone tried trappers mink oil from track of the wolf? supposed to be 100% mink tallow.
wondered what temperature ranges this stuff would work in?
 
Spot, never tried it but some guys in cold climates seem to think it's the Mink's meow. Claim it works good down in the 25 to 30 below range. I don't hunt or shoot at those temps! :shocked2:
 
the Black Spot said:
anyone tried trappers mink oil from track of the wolf? supposed to be 100% mink tallow.
wondered what temperature ranges this stuff would work in?
I use it for any cccccold weather from 40-50 above to well below frrezing. It will NOT harden!

In warmer/Summer months ... it will 'run', so I switch to Hoppe's BP Patch Lube (thank you Roundball :thumbsup: !) or I'll just shoot 'bareball' (over 2F powdah) in my flint smoothie, accurate better than you can hold to at least to 25-yards ...
 
the Black Spot said:
anyone tried trappers mink oil from track of the wolf? supposed to be 100% mink tallow.
wondered what temperature ranges this stuff would work in?

BS,
i had a .50 Austin/Halleck that loved the mink lube. It's good stuff. nice and greasy when its hot, but still maluable when its very cold. Try it. wont answer for leather conditioner, tho. :v
 
I use a beeswax/olive oil mix, about 60/40 with pillow ticking as patching. With this set up I can shoot my 50 all I want without having to swab the bore. I use it in my 32 as well but have to use thinner patching. Not only is it a great lube in hot or cold weather, it smells good too... :grin:
 
Did you lube the patch material ahead of time or just lube it at time of use from a tin of it? Also, were there any other ingredients besides the 60/40 beeswax/olive oil? Inquiring minds want to know!
:hmm: :confused:
 
I use it from a 2x3 tin I carry while afield. I carry the ticking in strips that I have cut ahead of time. I lube from the tin and cut at the muzzle just like you would when using spit.

I mix this up in a canning jar placed in a pot of boiling water on the stove. I melt the beeswax first then add the olive oil, more or less just eyeballing it til I think its about right. After mixing, let it cool and add to the tins as needed. I store it in the same jar I mixed it in. A half pound lasts a long time.
 
Thanks for the input. Been wanting to try it and wanted to make sure I was doing it right.
:thumbsup:
 
I use a mix of 25% bees wax, 25% Crisco, and 50% olive oil for a patch lube and to lube conicals.

I like it a lot and continuous shooting without wiping is no problem (although I ususally wipe between shots anyway).

Put all three components in a microwave and heat it until everything is liquid. Then stir it a little and pour it into a container of your choice to cool and solidify. I use old bullet boxes for bench shooting and an old musket cap tin for walking around.

PatchLube.jpg
 
thanks for all this good advice, been wanting a patch lube that you can actually use with a bullet block and leave the rounds and patches in the block for long periods of time. :bow:
 

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