This screw won't budge!

[Jaegermeister]

Bud in Pa, that’s exactly how I removed a stubborn-assed clean out screw on the falling block of my ‘59 Sharps. The ratchet came with my gunsmith screwdriver set. Probably a must have for all of us. Very empowering to have the right tools.

 

[chix2111]

Chalk up another vote for Liquid Wrench. Just this last Tuesday I removed a breech plug that was in the barrel so hard I thought my socket was going to break. I sprayed the stuff in the end of the barrel and stood it in a corner over night. It came out the next morning.

 

[Tumbler]

Have been trying unsuccessfully to remove a trigger guard screw from a 1993 Uberti made 1858 Remington revolver for the last 24hrs and am now solicitng suggestions. Have treated it with WD40 penetrating oil for 24hrs, also gave it a tap to try and loosen whatever is holding it there but so far, nada. This screw won't budge. Any tricks of the trade to share ?

Do have a drill press?

 

[Artificer]

Have been trying unsuccessfully to remove a trigger guard screw from a 1993 Uberti made 1858 Remington revolver for the last 24hrs and am now solicitng suggestions. Have treated it with WD40 penetrating oil for 24hrs, also gave it a tap to try and loosen whatever is holding it there but so far, nada. This screw won't budge. Any tricks of the trade to share ?

Because this screw screws into metal and after trying real penetrating oils every day for a few days to a week and that doesn't work, then there is something most home hobbyists can do as the next step.

First, though, you HAVE to have a screwdriver blade or bit that exactly fits the width of the bottom of the screw driver slot. The blade can be a little less in the length than the screw head, but it has to fit the slot exactly as to thickness/width. That means common household screwdrivers won't work. You either have to file/grind a blade to fit the slot perfectly, or you can buy one that does correctly fit. If you have the ability to measure the slot width, here is a place you can order an individual bit to match.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ts/magna-tip-bits/magna-tip-bits-prod501.aspx
The next step after soaking the screw each day for many days, is use the correctly fitting blade/bit and give two or three hard taps on the screwdriver handle. Then try to TIGHTEN the screw, then quickly reverse the direction of twist to loosen it. Many times that will break the "rust bond" between the screw and threaded hole and the screw will come out.

If that doesn't work, then I choose a nail that is smaller than the head of the screw. I hold that in an old set of pliers and heat the tip cherry red. Then I hold the cherry red heated nail tip on the center of the screw head for 15 to 30 seconds, giving the heat a chance to warm the whole screw. Then I get rid of the heated nail in a safe place and go back to trying the tip above.

Gus

 

[Hillbilly Delux]

1/4” impact driver bit ?

 

[dewitt007]

Apparently since there are two dissimilar metals, and the screw most likely
developed electrolytes which has the threads bound. Use penatrating fluid
And after two or three days of this, apply a small amount of heat around the exterior of the screw. Where ever you apply heat will cause the metal to expand, don't think it's a good idea to apply heat to the screw, then
Attempt to loosen screw with a good hollow ground screw driver.

 

[Art Caputo]

Soak in Liquid Wrench for a day, use a 1/4” Impact Driver with a perfectly fitting, hollow ground bit.

 

[painter]

I'll recommend John R's impact driver method. Been using them for years removing steel screws from aluminum engine cases.

 

[mjpchief]

Another vote for Kroil. Let it soak.

 

[nkbj]

Several days with a good penetrating oil (not just applied to the screw head), then into the freezer, then heat it (but don't cook off the penetrating oil), then try it. Then repeat until it works. But don't be impatient and screw up the screw head.

 

[toot]

wouldn't it be so much easier to just leave it?

 

[arjay]

+1 for PB Blaster

 

[Davey Boy]

Iodine, same stuff you put on cuts

I buy it on Amazon in big bottles

 

[jonathan butcher]

You're soaking in it.

Another vote for Kroil. Let it soak.

 

[jonathan butcher]

Assuming you weren't kidding yes, it definitely would be easier. As long as the revolver never needs a replaced internal part. Or a cleaning after shooting. Or an adjustment.

wouldn't it be so much easier to just leave it?

 

[springfield art]

Have been trying unsuccessfully to remove a trigger guard screw from a 1993 Uberti made 1858 Remington revolver for the last 24hrs and am now solicitng suggestions. Have treated it with WD40 penetrating oil for 24hrs, also gave it a tap to try and loosen whatever is holding it there but so far, nada. This screw won't budge. Any tricks of the trade to share ?

An experienced expert gunsmith once told me, in working on valuable old guns, you may have to give the screw a twist, then wait 24 hrs. before 'trying' it once again. Patience was his point. I would assume he would do such a technique as many times, over as many days, as it took!

 

[jonathan butcher]

This sounds like good advice. I've ordered an impact driver, also Kroil, both will arrive tomorrow. Since I started this post I've been applying Liquid Wrench in intervals of 5-6hrs or so. I have re-adjusted my expectations as to how long this process might go. Though not my first stuck screw or nipple this one is stuck. Am settling in for the long haul.

An experienced expert gunsmith once told me, in working on valuable old guns, you may have to give the screw a twist, then wait 24 hrs. before 'trying' it once again. Patience was his point. I would assume he would do such a technique as many times, over as many days, as it took!

 

[Newtire]

I’ve heated screws in metal with my strip gun to good effect
Glenn

If it's on there with loctite, penetatng oil probbly won't help. Heat turns loctite into goo. Ask any Ford crossmember or Japanese transmission bolt. A soldering gun or microtorch usually does the deed.

 

[BadDaditood]

One of my New in Box Italian clones came with pre-rusted nipples, saved me the trouble!
Since then I completely disassemble, clean, tune and lube anything I get before going to the range.
Tuning avoids that ugly cylinder bolt stop Scraaaaape!!! scar that one of my first “factory tuned” clones got it’s first time out.
BTW, Kroil for the win!

 

[Ontario47]

Pull the cylinder and see if the front trigger guard screw hole is all the way thru the bottom of the frame, they usually are. More penetrating oil/solvent, tap both top and bottom of screw, freeze, heat, oil, more soak time, tighten,loosen (carefully) repeat. heat the frame not the screw.