Threads on barrel

[billraby]

People that know everything are annoying. Two people that each know everything even more than the other one are even more annoying.

 

[Beaverman2]

When this O P, needs stuff like that, take it to a smith. I am a surgical technician in an operating room, not a qualified gunsmith.
I have replaced the drum once. Had the smith do it and realign and drill for a new nipple.

It may be time to retire it.
Than I will have a reason to get a new Kibler smr in 45.

Now your making sense!

 

[Cagetender]

I bought a cva hawkin rifle at a gun show that did not have a drum so I ordered a new one from Deer Creek and it lined up perfect when installed .So try getting a new one with good sharp threads

Ok fellow shooters.
I need some ideas.
Here's the problem.
I have a 1970s CVA Kentucky long rifle, my dad and I built.
I have always taken it apart to clean it.
When I clean it , these are the steps.
I unscrew the flash hole screw, take the nipple off, and unscrew the drum.
These are cleaned by hand.
Lately when I screw the drum back in, the nipple goes just past where the would hit it.
It doesn't align with the hammer and stop.
Unless you back it off just a hair.
How can I fix this? I thought I read somewhere there are sizing sleeves that will fix that.
Any ideas are helpful.
I hate to retire her but if I must it will become a wall hanger.
Thanks
Mark

In my 1979 era CVA 50 cal..Mountain Rifle took out drum and nipple just once.Not recommended as threads are crush fit at drum/ barrel interface.Appears you have too much rock n roll in this area.Shim and red locktite threads.Do not remove drum in future cleanings.Mine had a Made in USA Douglass barrel.Also had Spanish one which shot just as well.Regret selling them.

 

[Rich44]

Ok fellow shooters.
I need some ideas.
Here's the problem.
I have a 1970s CVA Kentucky long rifle, my dad and I built.
I have always taken it apart to clean it.
When I clean it , these are the steps.
I unscrew the flash hole screw, take the nipple off, and unscrew the drum.
These are cleaned by hand.
Lately when I screw the drum back in, the nipple goes just past where the would hit it.
It doesn't align with the hammer and stop.
Unless you back it off just a hair.
How can I fix this? I thought I read somewhere there are sizing sleeves that will fix that.
Any ideas are helpful.
I hate to retire her but if I must it will become a wall hanger.
Thanks
Mark

When this O P, needs stuff like that, take it to a smith. I am a surgical technician in an operating room, not a qualified gunsmith.
I have replaced the drum once. Had the smith do it and realign and drill for a new nipple.

It may be time to retire it.
Than I will have a reason to get a new Kibler smr in 45.

This is one of those threads that you wish you never read, let alone gave an opinion on. Good luck.

 

[Billy Boy]

Ok fellow shooters.
I need some ideas.
Here's the problem.
I have a 1970s CVA Kentucky long rifle, my dad and I built.
I have always taken it apart to clean it.
When I clean it , these are the steps.
I unscrew the flash hole screw, take the nipple off, and unscrew the drum.
These are cleaned by hand.
Lately when I screw the drum back in, the nipple goes just past where the would hit it.
It doesn't align with the hammer and stop.
Unless you back it off just a hair.
How can I fix this? I thought I read somewhere there are sizing sleeves that will fix that.
Any ideas are helpful.
I hate to retire her but if I must it will become a wall hanger.
Thanks
Mark

With an automatic center punch (available at the hardware store), you can dimple the drum face or barrel area around the threaded hole, I’d do the drum, and turn it up tight and clock it. Thin shim stock will also work but for me was always hard to cut and trim right. If you drill and tap a cleanout hole thru the drum you don’t need to remove it during regular cleaning.

 

[Rebel bull]

i have made a fair amount of powder money repairing cva/traditions and any other spanish made or style that use the original BOLSTER design these are not drums, and if you replace them with you end up with a pocket that is next to impossible to clean. Loctite is a acceptable repair but as a machinist/mechanic i personally would use green if i was going to use it. my preferred method of repair is to do it the way it was done at the factory

 

[sturmkatze]

There are these magical fellows called “gunsmiths” that are, gasp, trained to do this kind of thing. Why not get one to do it properly for you?

 

[Snooterpup]

There I went, not paying attention again. Thanks to Rebel Bull for the correction. After seeing the photographs, I have no proper opinion.

Best wishes on whatever fix you do!

 

[Rebel bull]

I agree wholeheartedly with option #3. I am not comfortable with shims and not real crazy about a semi-permanent fix with JB weld or locktite, not having the drum tightened securely. I recommend calling John or Ethan at Track of the Wolf. They can recommend the correct replacement drum and jig kit to place a new drum in the barrel with the nipple hole properly aligned. If you are somewhat handy, this is, by far, the best way to go. If not, try to find a muzzleloading gunsmith near you and have this done. Your gun is definitely not ruined!
I do agree with those that caution not to remove the drum for cleaning. It is not necessary.
Best wishes on whatever fix you do!

These drums are great for cva types but are not a proper replacement/repair for your gun

 

[necchi]

,, but as a machinist/mechanic i personally would use green if i was going to use it.

Green Loctite, interesting. As a non-machinist, and just a shade tree wrench turner I guess I've never even heard of Green let alone used the stuff.
When I get in trouble I have machinist friends I go to,,
I always thought Red was used if ya never wanted to remove the offending part again, (yet knowing high heat will break the bond).
Can you share how/why the green is better used in some applications?

 

[Rebel bull]

Green Loctite, interesting. As a non-machinist, and just a shade tree wrench turner I guess I've never even heard of Green let alone used the stuff.
When I get in trouble I have machinist friends I go to,,
I always thought Red was used if ya never wanted to remove the offending part again, (yet knowing high heat will break the bond).
Can you share how/why the green is better used in some applications?

Green is for absolute nothing removes it. Replacing requires drilling and tapping

 

[buckleymarka56]

There are these magical fellows called “gunsmiths” that are, gasp, trained to do this kind of thing. Why not get one to do it properly for you?

I do

 

[64Springer]

Green is for absolute nothing removes it. Replacing requires drilling and tapping

My understanding is that GREEN is a wicking formula for one smooth object that slides into another smooth object.

Tubes, bearings, shafts, cylinders, etc.

You apply it and the space between the objects to be sealed draws/wicks the green Loctite into those voids.

RED Loctite is strictly for threads.

There ain't nothing more permanent, and perfectly safe for guns, than RED Loctite. With exception of welding it/brazing it in place.

Lowe's. 7 bucks. Done.

 

[SDSmlf]

Can you share how/why the green is better used in some applications?

Here is a Loctite Threadlocker properties chart. Should be self explanatory.

 

[64Springer]

^^^Straight from the horse's mouth.^^^

LOL

If 271 RED is good enough for the military, it's good enough to hold a lowly percussion drum in place.

Forever.

 

[Bullit]

Loctite, teflon tape, shims ! You guys don't know anything. I've got a tig welder, bring it on over.

 

[Bad Karma]

When this O P, needs stuff like that, take it to a smith. I am a surgical technician in an operating room, not a qualified gunsmith.
I have replaced the drum once. Had the smith do it and realign and drill for a new nipple.

It may be time to retire it.
Than I will have a reason to get a new Kibler smr in 45.

This post should close the thread… truth!

 

[rp77469]

i have made a fair amount of powder money repairing cva/traditions and any other spanish made or style that use the original BOLSTER design these are not drums, and if you replace them with you end up with a pocket that is next to impossible to clean. Loctite is a acceptable repair but as a machinist/mechanic i personally would use green if i was going to use it. my preferred method of repair is to do it the way it was done at the factory

Rebel Bull has it right about drum replacement. Deer Creek can replace a CVA 'drum'. It was once described to me the drum has to be fitted to jam into the far wall recess while tight to the barrel on the lock side, the ignition chamber hole (essentially forming a patent breech) drilled, then the nipple hole located and drilled. Not having the CVA drum leaves a thin spot on the far side of the breechplug that has to be difficult so clean and dry so will corrode. NOT a diy for hobbyists. I've shimmed one drum on a CVA and heated and bent the hammer on another to get proper alignment.

 

[tom in nc]

We would love to see some pics.

 

[M. De Land]

Ok fellow shooters.
I need some ideas.
Here's the problem.
I have a 1970s CVA Kentucky long rifle, my dad and I built.
I have always taken it apart to clean it.
When I clean it , these are the steps.
I unscrew the flash hole screw, take the nipple off, and unscrew the drum.
These are cleaned by hand.
Lately when I screw the drum back in, the nipple goes just past where the would hit it.
It doesn't align with the hammer and stop.
Unless you back it off just a hair.
How can I fix this? I thought I read somewhere there are sizing sleeves that will fix that.
Any ideas are helpful.
I hate to retire her but if I must it will become a wall hanger.
Thanks

Perhaps if I can explain a bit of what is occurring it may shed some light on your decision making. Assuming the drum uses a V thread then what happens with repeated removal and replacement is the treads stretch a bit with each re-tensioning . The reason is that metal has elasticity and in a V thread the first three threads carry about 70 percent of the tension load when initially fit up . With each re-tension from thread in and subsequent firing pressure the first three threads spread more of the load out further down coil by both compression and elongation of the steel hence they turn in further to tighten. A well fit V thread both in the minor and major diameter will stretch less than a sloppy one will but once the load is more evenly distributed over the thread length the less turn in will occur. I would shim it which acts like a jamb nut to take up the thread stretch then lock tite it in place and leave it alone. The red loc-tite will fill the thread and prevent fouling accumulation just as the breech plug should be secured and left alone until a re=barrel is needed.
The drum is in no danger of blowing out if the threads are hot buggered or crossed. There is no need to ever remove the drum for cleaning as that is what the clean out screw is for in the end of them.