Top jaw screw tool

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mudd turtle

40 Cal.
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I made a tool today to tighten the top jaw screw on my 45 cal flinter . Made it from a large nail. I took my Dremel tool and cut the point and head off the nail . It was to big to go into the top jaw scew head so I chucked the nail up in my rotary drill and as it turned I used an old file to take off some of the metal so it would fit. It goes through very well now. Mudd Turtle.
 
Did you harden the nail after turning it down. If not it will probably bend when you use it. It takes some pretty good torque on it to tighten the jaw screw. I used a nail for a hile after i hardened it it worked fine.
 
Here is a tip for tightening the top jaw. Drill a hole through the top jaw screw. Use a "tommy bar" to tighten the screw. I use a cut off piece of Allen Wrench set into a bone handle for my bar. You can tighten the top jaw screw with a bar, much better than with a screwdriver.

Many Klatch
 
This is part of the setup I use to care for my rifle, It look a bit on the primitive side and I guess it is but it works and I like it. It goes in my shooting bag with the rest of my gear so if needed on the trail I have it.
Jeff
keyVise.jpg
 
Yes, or even on a gas stove burner. Just reduce or turn off the lights above, so you can clearly see your colors. If you have cooking oil available pour some in a small container to use as your quench. Put that container near the burner where you are heating the turnscrew. When its red hot, check it with a magnet to see that it is also non-magnetic. If not keep heating the piece until the magnet is not attracted to it. That is usually when it gets an orange-yellow color just above red. Hold it at that stage to thoroughly heat the entire item. Then quickly quench it in the oil, swirling it around with your plyers or tongs. It will come out with a black scale on it. Use emery cloth, or sand paper to polish one side of the blade to white again, and then heat it until it turns a nice razor blade blue. Then remove it from the heat and let it cool slowly to room temperature. The cooking oil can be either thrown out, or poured back in the bottle. There is nothing wrong with it.

The second step is " Tempering " the blade so that it is not too hard for tough work. Left hard, it is as brittle as a file, and can easly break if dropped. Tempering draws back some of the tension caused by the quenching of the iron in the oil. Instead of being brittle, the iron becomes tough, and strong.
When you finish cooling the tool to room temperature, take a metal rod of good tool steel, and holding the turnscrew by some string, strike it to make it ring. If it rings like a bell, its probably not fully tempered. If it sounds instead like a " Tink ", rather than a " ting ", its okay.
 
If your usin a regular old nail for the tool you can't harden it there aint enough carbon in it. You could case harden it but that wouldnt help much.
 
If you are using just a nail in those turncock screws that have a hole in them, the nail would have to be case hardened- carbon added to it- to make it hard enough. Better to buy a piece of tool steel the right diameter and cut off a piece of that to use. No hardening needed. The steel rod through that hole will give you a " T-handle " effect, and allow you to torgque that screw down enough to shatter flints. Obviously you should not go that far, but that is how you do it.

I have a cockscrew with a standard screwslot in it. I use the " Hawken Tool " sold by TOTW, or the Hawken shop, and others. It looks like an oval shapped " church key" for opening bottles. It has a short screwdriver shaped blade on one side, in the middle, so that you can get the leverage to tighten the screw from the length of the tool. It also has a nipple wire attached, as well as other things, making it a very good tool to use. I understand it is a copy of an original tool , so its PC too!
 
Most of the nails you'll find are mild steel and simply won't harden. BUT...look for masonry nails, they quite often look like square hand-forged nails (BONUS). These puppies are, indeed, high-carbon steel. Grind or forge to shape, then heat-treat in oil. Stick in 350 degree oven for an hour or so and there you gots it, mate. :thumbsup:
Love the hand-forged spring clamp and turnscrew posted above. :applause:
 

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