Touch hole liner savvy

[BillinOregon]

I asked in another post about Lyman Trade Rifle tweaks, and Cayugad mentioned the replacement liner fitted to accept an Allen wrench. I see a number of other liners on the market, from those needed additional drilling, tapping and adjusting, such as the Chambers White Lightning, to a number of what seem to be drop-in liners in Ampco from Treso with conventional screw-driver slots on their faces. Which of these works best? Are they all coned from one or both sides? What is the concensus on liner geometry and replacing liners? (I know Caywood hates the things.)

 

[Woodgoat]

Bill, I make my own out of stainless threaded rod. Cone the inside and outside and cut a screw slot. The bore of my liners is only about .015 to .020" so they wear out pretty fast, (about 1200-1500shots). I drill them with a 1/16" drill and when they get to about .075 I replace.
Ive seen liners made out of allen head set screws not work real well,(lots of flashes and longfires), and I think the problem was the depth of the hex part. The closer to the pan the main charge is , the better. If you're going to do that I would suggest cutting the hex depth down to the minimum you can get away with. Ive just gotten used to screw slots myself. I wrap mine in teflon tape too and remove for cleaning. As for geometry of location, the top edge of the pan should run right through the middle of the touch hole. If the liner isnt situated right, you can remedy that by drilling the touch hole in a different location than center(drill at an angle), or you can change the depth of the pan if the hole is too low.

 

[fatboy]

Ive a couple of flintlock rifles my first was a TC Hawken replaced the original liner with a allen type and this rifle goes off all the time rairly a hang fire and that would happen at the range after 20 or so shots and not being picked out . The trick is to cone the inside of the liner this brings the powder closer to the pan,most store bought are like this already. I have made and or modified some others so they will work better. :imo: :results:

 

[Will Bison]

My preference is a stainless liner, coned only on the bore side and finished smooth and flat. My Smith installs mine with some extra length and after it's screwed in, cuts it flat with the side of the gun. I don't care for a hex or even a driver slot.

I have never had to pull a liner and see no reason to do so except in an extreme case. If mine must come out they would be drilled for an easy-out. Once pulled, the liner would have to be replaced.

 

[ffffg]

flintlocks are touchy things.. like cars you can replace parts and get nowhere.. you should analize the problem properly and see if a simple change in your loading habbits will fix the problem.. sometimes poor wipingteckniques, or the wrong type of lube. i find that cleaning the touchhole with a toothpick when reloading does wonders.. fool around with it, tell us what the problem is, dont fix what aint broke... i have a screwdriver slot liner in a cheap traditions or somesuch and it works well with proper tecknique... dave..

 

[mike alexandre]

My Ped Jeager has a liner with a screwdriver slot. With the liner in tight the slot points down into the lock and allows burnt powder to enter the lock. Any ideas on sealing it please.

 

[Zonie]

Use a hard sharp pointed thing like your pocket knife and mark a little scratch on the liners face where it meets the bottom of the flintlocks pan.
Remove the lock. Use Acetone, Lacquer thinner or disk brake cleaner and degrease the face and slot of the liner.
With the gun laying on its side with the side flat up, mix up a tiny little amount of epoxy and apply this to the slot below the scratched line to fill it.
Let it harden, replace the lock and your primeing powder leakage problem should be fixed.

If you ever want to remove the liner by using the screwdriver slot, with the gun unloaded, heat the area to at least 300 degrees. You should be able to scrape the epoxy out of the groove.
:results: