A slotted touch hole liner needs to be indexed with screw slot horizontal or in line with the top of the pan. . If you leave it at 90 degree ( not parallel or other angle) to the top of the pan the gas cutting from shooting will erode the bolster where the lock butts against the barrel and liner. Priming powder can slip down below bottom of the pan and into the lock mortise. The use of stainless steel hex key index set screws for liners puts the small touch hole farther from the pan. I get slower ignition. The thin wall where I've drilled into the slot also burns out sooner. I reverse the hex slot toward the bore, drill the touch hole and put a screw slot. This is only for a rifle that is convertible from flint to percussion - in hind sight not that great an idea. For full time flint locks I use White Lightning liners from Chambers and slightly enlarge its touch hole. They stay in place until time to replace. They are not 1/4 x 28 or 5/16ths x 24 so won't work for drums in those threads in convertibles. In the instance of erosion the easy out removal makes it replaceable. Non stainless steel and Ampco liners wore out sooner than stainless. The Ampo were brittle and chipped easily when installing. Gold and platinum liners were used on custom made original flintlocks - especially dueling pistols.
Wow, auto correct really messed up my post. I meant to say the hex screw liners are, I think, the same type in finished TVM rifles. Sort of a reverse cone - coned on the outside, not the inside. Same advantage? I don't know.
This thread prompted me to just now order one coned on the inside made specifically for my semi- production rifle.