Touch Hole Size

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AK in PA

36 Cal.
Joined
Nov 29, 2001
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I'm getting to know my Bess, which had a 1/16" touch hole. I had a terrible time with pan flashes the first couple of outings with it, so I drilled out the touch hole to 5/64", which I've done with other guns to improve ignition. I shot it again today and things went much better, though still not without a few pan flashes. I'd like to drill the touch hole to 3/32", but wanted to get opinions on drilling such a large vent. The vent is directly in the barrel, so I can't simply swap out a new liner if I don't like it.
 
That's already a pretty good sized vent. Are you running a pick in the vent between each shot?
 
The original hole was a smidge high, so I ground out the bottom of the hole slightly before redrilling. The location is near perfect now. Even picking the heck out of the hole after loading, there are still misfires. I've tried 2f and 4f in the pan, from 1/3 full to nearly full, tapping powder on near and far sides and everything in between, but so far there's no magic combo that is reliable. With the enormous lock and amount of powder throwing such a monstrous fireball, I think this gun should have the utmost reliable ignition. I can't imagine British troops spent time to pick their vents in the heat of battle, either!

Increasing the size just 1/64" already made a big difference, and I'd imagine another 1/64" would bring it home. But, I worry that might be big enough to drizzle a trail of 2f through the woods. :hmm:
 
i just checked my trade gun and it is 5/64 and i shoot 3f in it without any powder loss to speak of. been that way for 25 years and i have carried it alot. some times i will have a very small amount in the pan.
 
The military muskets of the 18th century were indeed workhorses. Troops were issued pricks and brushes but these were to correct misfires after several rounds had been fired in rapid fire. Your bess should not be flashing the pan on the first or second shots.

I don't understand what you mean by your touchhole might drizzle a trail of 2Fg through the woods? Your touchhole should be covered by the frizzen when closed. The musket should be fully loaded, then fully primed, when hunting. 2Fg is fine for both. Don't walk about the woods with a Bess, and wait to prime when you see game that you wish to shoot. That's a good way to clog the touchhole.

A 3/32 touchhole will work. I've seen them worn so big over time that they "self-prime", when the reenactor pours the 3Fg powder from the blank down the barrel, with the pan closed, some pours out the touchhole into the pan and is held by the closed frizzen. This is on guns that have fired literally thousands of rounds, and the touchhole is worn. Those touchholes are a bit larger than 3/32.

LD
 
My Bess Carbine has a touch hole that is approaching 1/8". It has been shot thousands of time. I almost never get a flash in the pan with it, regardless of how many shots have been fired. Drill it out another 1/64"
 
AK in PA,
What I've done to better a finicky hole has been when there was a liner that could be replaced in case it was a bad job. But, what I did was to use a real small diameter rat tail round file to move the side of the hole to where it needed to be.
 
I drill the touch hole or liner to .062" I replace when it is .093" or so.

The touch hole is at top of very top the prime.
 
Most of the time I've seen Brown Bess locks that did not function correctly was due to lack of sparks to set the priming powder off. Are you getting a good shower of sparks from your flint?

Gus
 
On my Tulle ,I pick hole before loading....after loading ,I shove the pick in the hole again.Then prime the pan with 4F...then tip the gun and tap the side to get some 4f in that hole that I picked.Then lightly pick again. Seems like a lot of work but It goes by quickly . Good Luck
 
On a wire gauge bit scale, you're already at about a #47, or .0785". If you move to a #46, that will be .081", a #45 is .082, a #44 is .086", a #43 is .089" etc. You have to go all the way down to a #42 before you get to about 3/32". If you're going to open it up, I suggest you do it 1 bit size at a time. It's easier to take metal away than it is to add it.
 
For some reason, people seem to forget about the numbered wire drill bit scale, and, most big-box stores don't seem to stock them very reliably. BUt I do like the much smaller jump in hole size they give you over the fractional bit scale. Individually, the bits don't cost that much ($2-$3). Around here in Minneapolis, Menards and Track seem to be the only "drive-to" locations to buy them.
 
Col. Batguano said:
For some reason, people seem to forget about the numbered wire drill bit scale, and, most big-box stores don't seem to stock them very reliably. BUt I do like the much smaller jump in hole size they give you over the fractional bit scale. Individually, the bits don't cost that much ($2-$3). Around here in Minneapolis, Menards and Track seem to be the only "drive-to" locations to buy them.

Thanks for the tip on wire bit sizes. I didn't know that standard exists! In any case, I bought a #44 bit (mid-way between 5/64" and 3/32") at my local hardware store and re-drilled the vent. I've hunted so far with no ignition problems, and today shot 20 balls at the range without a hitch...not one flash in the pan. Perfect!
 
Hearing Bess speak is usually the start of a wonderful conversation. It sounds like you have cured her stuttering problem. But if you are at a busy range, don't get caught speaking back to her. Some shooters won't understand the conversation between you and Bess.
 
If it were me I would install a whitelightning touch hole liner. They have a very small hole, dont know the size, but they are coned inside on the bore side. This puts your main charge very very close to the pan flash. I have one one my Lyman flintlock Hawken 54 cal in PRB and it goes boom every time,I have to have a very dull flint and screw up big time in my loading and priming and not pay attention for this flintlock not to fire. It is amazing. I also have the obligatory pan brush and vent pick but I have yet to use it in two seasons of shooten. I very seldom clean between shots, only when the crud ring starts to form (after 25-30shots) and I shoot Goex 2F. Try one, I guarantee U will be impressed with the results.

Did the Indians put U here? Twernt Mormons.
 
Check the bottom and edge of your frizzen where it rubs on the
barrel. Could be that it's wiping fowling into the touch hole when you close it.

Sometimes you can grind a small relief into the bottom of the
frizzen so it clears the touch hole.
 
Eaglenester makes a good point. A touch whole liner is coned so the wall thickness minimal.

I had a thick walled flint pistol that I coned from the outside because the flash path was long.

I would not go over .090” on the touch hole. I would install a liner first.

I let my 20 ga. open to 1/8” because it always went off. I was surprised at rifle like crack when I finally installed a liner.
 
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