Touch Up Bluing

[GregC]

Hey All,

I just bought a used TC Hawken that needs some touch up Re-bluing? What is the best way to do this?

Should I strip all the old blue off and start over?

Is there a way to just blue through the old stuff?

What is best product to use? Super Blue, regular old cold blue?

Thanks

Greg

 

[Slowpoke]

WB,
Let me introduce you to a gunsmiths best friend... Perma-blue. It's quick, easy, and covers up mystakes even on browned barrels.

SP

 

[GregC]

Is perma blue better than super blue?

Is it durable?

Thanks

 

[Slowpoke]

To be honest, this is the only stuff I have ever used. It is quite durable and I like it a lot. Hopefully, other members can chime on on the other products.

SP

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I have found nothing beats Van's Gun Bluing.

 

[rmonday2]

Cold bluing with permablue or superblue requires bare metal for the chemical reaction. It will not effect the origional bluing. It is good for touch-up, but it is very hard to get an eaven finish on larger parts such as actions or barrels unless you can submerge them. This is easy with little parts like screws,pins etc.

The application I have always used has been with a Q-tip or cotton ball depending on the size of the part, and on large surfaces it will fade as from dark black to a pail (case harden) blue. If your doing muzzleloader parts, it sort of adds a patina effect in the bluing and dont look to bad!

Maybe some of the others can elaborate more on better applications, but this has been my experience :results: Good Luck with your bluing :thumbsup: Ronnie...
P.S. It must be free of any oil!

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Uh, think this was misdirected to me??

 

If you want PermaBlue to give you an even finish on large parts like barrels and such, you simply have to give it some steel wool between applications. When I blued the barrel of my pistol, it was all blotchy and basically crappy looking, then I hit it with some steel wool and it evened right out. Couple more applications with the steel wool between them and it was done. Looks good too.

 

[Zonie]

The Perma Blue is made for mild steel like the barrel on your rifle.
The Super Blue is made for hard alloyed steels like a modern CF rifle.

The Perma Blue is a little lighter shade of "blue" (actually black) and the Super Blue makes a much darker shade of black.

They only cost a little over $5 so why not buy both. Try the Perma Blue first. If you want it darker use the Super Blue.

Either of these will look better when it's oiled than it does when you apply it and wash it off per the directions.

 

[Regulis7]

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue works pretty good if you take your time and follow the directions that are printed on the bottle.

If you have never blued a part before then find something you can practice on first. This will allow you to perfect your technique and know what depth of finish you are looking for.

Several things to have handy are Q-tips for small spots, cotton balls for larger areas, latex gloves, denatured alcohol and 0000 super fine grade steel wool.

The latex gloves will keep the chemicals off your hands and keep sweat and oils off the exposed metals as you handle them. The bluing wont stick to an area with a sweaty/oily finger print.

Use the alcohol as a degreaser/water remover prior to the first coat and between rinses. Use the 0000 steel wool to buff/polish between bluing coats so you come up with a glossier finish, no steel wool use will produce a duller/flatter finish and an uneven looking job on larger parts.

Regulis7

 

[rusty]

I have degreased with alchohol then heated the barrel up real good by running it under hot tap water then applied supper blue with a cotton ball,steel wooled between coats after about three coats it looked pretty good