Track's "best" early style flintlock

[1eyemountainmen]

I am wanting to build a new rifle. I have a couple of cap rifles but, now I want a flinter. I'm tring for a early longhunter/ pre-war of independence. I want this thing to be a "damm look at that" when I go to the shoots. I am thinking about the John Bivin rifle kit. Has anyone built one of these kits? Any photos or advice would be great.

 

[tg]

I did one of their Early Lancaster parts sets several years ago, it is similar to the Bivins set,TOW parts sets are OK i used their Fusil set to make a nice "Tulle" gun also but If I were going for an early rifle I would pick one of Chambers guns, I think they are spot on for period detail and hear they are user friendly to build,there are several which could put you pre Rev War.

 

[1eyemountainmen]

Does Jim Chambers let you do "mix and match" as far as triggers, barrels ect. There are a few things I want to add and change around that why I'm thinking about ToW.

 

[tg]

I don't know how flexable they are, I am pretty certain they would not mix and match stuff that would not be correct for the gun/period, you might ask around about the Bivins furniture I seem to recall that he made it himself maybe not really cast from any originals? This may not be a concern but it is pretty easy to mix and match a gun to where the PC value is nill.

 

[1eyemountainmen]

That's very ture. Have you built one of the Jim Chamblers kit?

 

[cptleo1]

I am sure Jim will sell you anything you want.

Problem is with the pre-inlet stock.

It cannot be reconfigured for different pieces very easily.

I know a few fellows who used different trigger guards than Jim offers - so it can be done.

The trick is probably getting Mr Seply (Jim's stock carver) into doing a one off stock.

I am just curious, what is it that you would change on one of his rifles ?

 

[tg]

"That's very ture. Have you built one of the Jim Chamblers kit?'

I have not put one together, I have seen a couple that others built and I bought one a few years ago from a gentleman who put the gun together himself, an Early Virginia swamped Oct .62 smoothrifle, he did a good job of putting it together and it is a good shooter.I hear nothing but good about them.If I were to put another gun together it would be a Chambers if they had the gun I wanted....which they don't, but that is another story.

 

[Dane]

I"ve built at least a dozen Chamber's kits.

They are the best, bar none.

You'll find that they pay attention to style and authenticity, as well as quality.

There are NO factory locks that compare with theirs, and you just can't beat a White Lightnin' touch hole liner.

As far as mix and match??? I suppose there are a few things you could change around. I guess you could order with as many or few items inlet, and substitute other pieces to fit. But remember,... all of their guns are researched and period correct with the parts supplied.

 

[Vaino]

I inquired of Chambers if the sideplate inlet could be omitted on his Early Lancaster and he told me that such a precarve couldn't be returned. So, the 2 I "built" had the front lockbolt which is located from the sidplate, interfering w/ the RR hole.I now use a #6-32 front lockbolt for less interference. Don't think that there are any options except the omission of the wood patchbox. I normally build from a blank and "pick and choose" the components, but don't really see the need on a Chambers' parts set seeing a lot of HC research went into the designing. The Chambers' Early Lancaster is really an "Isaac Haines" w/ a 44" bbl. IMO, the Chambers' part sets are the best on the market....Fred

 

[Frank/Pa]

I have the same problem with a Chambers smooth rifle. The front lock bolt will be located to low and interfere with the ramrod. I am going to try a 6x32 bolt and drill the hole up a tad to give enough clearance for the ramrod.

If I had known about this problem before I ordered
the kit I would have them omit the lock and lockplate inlet. This is my first fully inlet project. All my other builds only had the barrel and ramrod hole done.

 

[JOHN ZUREKI]

I put together at least six or seven Jim Chamber's kits and am aware of the front lock bolt interfering with the ramrod in "some cases". I found that if you taper the rod, and it does not have to be that much, you will have little problem. The Edward Marshall rifle I built years ago would not cooperate, I did file a flat on the lock bolt. I did not think of using a smaller bolt. I do have to remember to remove the ramrod before removing the lock. These kits or what ever you want to call them are still the best overall.

 

[flaming canvas]

Does Jim Chambers let you do "mix and match" as far as triggers, barrels ect. There are a few things I want to add and change around that why I'm thinking about ToW.

I did a little mix and match on my Isaac Haines kit from TOTW. Of course, it's easier to see how it will work when you're in the show room and can hold the parts in place and look at the effect. I changed to a double set trigger and guard to go with it. Also a deluxe Siler lock from Chambers

 

[anika]

I am currently struggling with a TOW Bivins kit. I don't know how it stacks up with other kits available from other suppliers but I have a couple of problems with mine. The lock mortise was not cut for a Siler deluxe and the barrel mortise was not as pictured on the web page. I had to chisel in the tang and the breech plug and when done it was apparent that something had to be done to center the flash hole correctly. I opted to move the barrel and tang mortise back and now the tang and breech stands proud. I cant lower the barrel channel any more cause I have cut through into the lock mortise. Most of the parts were marked I Haines which is probably correct and if I had to do this project again I would probably opt to grind back on the breech plug. Right now I'm leaving it alone and since the barrel is a Rice and the lock is Chambers I'm just hoping that it shoots good when its done. I have no preconceived notions as to how it will look. odis

 

[rabjr]

Odis you should post pics if you can in another thread. There are builders here that will talk you through fixes.

 

[Dave W]

In the last six years, I have put together five flint rifles ("B" and "C" weight Dunlap Haines, a TOTW "C" weight Haines, a TVM Early Lancaster, and a Chambers Marshall rifle). I am not an expert but here are a few observations: (1) the Chambers set went together the easiest. (2) the Dunlap set had the best wood for the money (3) the TOTW kit required the most finesse to get right.

My next rifle will be another Haines with Dunlap wood, Chambers Deluxe Siler, Rice barrel, and a couple of slightly different pieces such as buttplate, triggerguard, and sideplate to change things up just a bit and make the way I like it.

Also, I had my Marshall rifle at the range on Friday. Shot it for 2.5 hours without a misfire using a White Lightning liner. Use one in any rifle that you build and you will not regret it.

Have fun.

Dave

 

[billk]

How was the Dunlap's kit overal quality, easiness of putting together and final product comparing it to the Chamber's kit?
Thank you,
Billk

 

[Mike Brooks]

How was the Dunlap's kit overal quality, easiness of putting together and final product comparing it to the Chamber's kit?
Thank you,
Billk

The Dunlap kit is a direct copy off of Getz barrel company's Isac Haines kit. I'm not sure if the Chambers kit is the same copy or not. I've put them all together and all the Haines guns go together the same as they are all copied from the same original master pattern. When you buy one of these ask for the hardest piece of wood they have, you'll get a much better stock to work with.

 

[Vaino]

Odis...why not start a new post w/ more details? Your problems seem to be a result of not having a book that states the order of assembly?....Fred

 

[Dave W]

My first rifle (ever) was a Dunlap Haines flinter. I made a few mistakes, but it went together pretty easily. The only comments or comparisons that I can make between Haines rifles are those from Dunlap and TOTW. I would give the nod to the Dunlap kit since I believe the components are better and the wood is better. Both involved about the same amount of work in terms of inletting the barrel tang and cleaning up the other inlets, etc.

The one thing that I learned early on with precarved stocks is to FIRST plan for proper vent/pan placement (of course, ahead of the breech face). Seems simple enough now, but staring at your first rifle with chisel in hand, nothing seems obvious.

Dave

 

[huntman58]

My first rifle (ever) was a Dunlap Haines flinter. I made a few mistakes, but it went together pretty easily. The only comments or comparisons that I can make between Haines rifles are those from Dunlap and TOTW. I would give the nod to the Dunlap kit since I believe the components are better and the wood is better. Both involved about the same amount of work in terms of inletting the barrel tang and cleaning up the other inlets, etc.

The one thing that I learned early on with precarved stocks is to FIRST plan for proper vent/pan placement (of course, ahead of the breech face). Seems simple enough now, but staring at your first rifle with chisel in hand, nothing seems obvious.

Dave

boy is the above true :thumbsup: . mama always said I like to reinvent the wheel :grin: