Trade knife

[Dan99]

historically correct gurus only look at first photo please

Only roughed out so far, I will use iron pins at final assembly

11” overall 6 1/2” blade 4 1/2” Bubinga
Handle

 

[user 48679]

I think it's nice work, but since IDK, I gotta ask: Is the squared handle PC ?

 

[Dan99]

I think it is

The full tang is questionable, but some aren’t comfortable with a half tang so I decided to “stretch” the line a little

 

[Brokennock]

I think it's nice work, but since IDK, I gotta ask: Is the squared handle PC ?

Yes

 

[Brokennock]

historically correct gurus only look at first photo please View attachment 171214

Only roughed out so far, I will use iron pins at final assembly

11” overall 6 1/2” blade 4 1/2” Bubinga
Handle

Very, very, nice.

 

[user 48679]

Thank you for the clarification..

 

[Dan99]

Very, very, nice.

Thank you, It’s all starting to come together

 

[Dan99]

Thank you for the clarification..

I’m glad you asked, it wouldn’t be the first time I misinterpreted information

 

[Red Owl]

On the butt of the handle, I'd make a backward angle toward the tang. Right now it looks sort of "Blocky" All else looks good. Full tangs are PC, just not as common as the half tangs. The front of the handle, maybe taper that a little as well. You are going to have the knife FOREVER, might as well spend a few more minutes and get it just the way you want it.

 

[Dan99]

Yeah, I was thinking of how to “smooth” out the overall look, thank you for the ideas.

 

[LRB]

Just curious, are you trying for correct, or your version of how you desire it to be?

 

[Dan99]

Just curious, are you trying for correct, or your version of how you desire it to be?

I was attempting correct, except for the full tang.

 

[Bushfire]

It depends on what you're after, I received photos of my PC boucheron. Measurements and blade outline was taken from an excavated 5 pouce type C blade from Fort Ticonderoga. Pins are peened with no glue/pitch. Pins one and two are 1 pouce apart. As per 3 pin two piece boucherons, the third pin simply held the scales together. Doron stamp is obviously recreated for PC requirements and not the makers marks. Trade knives didn't need to be pretty they needed to function, much like cheap working knives today.
I grew up in a poorer family when I was young, dad was a slaughterman then butcher in his earlier days and still has all his knives. Some have nicks out of the wooden handles while some have worn blades from decades of sharpening. Many he purchased second hand when he was young. I love the character of them.

 

[Bushfire]

I was attempting correct, except for the full tang.

Full tang knives existed, the idea was more about conserving steel in times of war say. The blade thickness looks thicker than trade knives I've seen and would have used more steel than necessary.

Not sure about the spacers either? Edit: zoomed on the photo, what I thought was a spacer may just be the sanding and light angle.

But again like your other works, it is a beautiful knife.

 

[Red Owl]

I stand corrected. The butt, probably leave that as is - I wasn't looking at the photo correctly.; and, angle the front of the wood slabs. On the blade, maybe work on the "ricasso" area, filing it forward, so that it ends at the front of the handle rather than extend back into the handle, if that makes sense. See the other posted photos.

 

[BozoMiller]

You did a fine job. I really like the looks of it.

 

[Dan99]

As always I appreciate the feedback. Just to clarify…
Here’s what I was using a guide for the handle. I blew up image on printer to scale pin placement moving one pin to the back as I’ve seen on similar Ken Hamilton knives. Blade is only 1/8 wide at the widest.
As for aging/roughing up knife, I thought that would be fun for new owner to do

Here’s latest picture, handle blockyness refinedI still need to replace pins

 

[Dan99]

Just curious, are you trying for correct, or your version of how you desire it to be?

I’m sorry, I don’t understand. Do you mind explaining? I’m not sure if the knives I’m using as patterns are not “correct” or I’m just not following example close enough. Thanks in advance if your able to help

 

[Notchy Bob]

You're doing nice work, Dan.

Notchy Bob

 

[LRB]

I was attempting correct, except for the full tang.

You seem to be mixing English with French. I don't believe you would find diamond grips on a French boucheron, nor the 3rd pin at the rear of scales on English scalpers as they were commonly one piece. If that knife is supposed to be English, the blade is much too thick and they were not made with a noticeable ricasso as they were a blended transition. Your blade profile is much too spear shaped even for French. As just a common smith made knife it is fine and I would choose it over either the common English or French scalpers for an all around belt knife but it is not a good example of either of the common scalpers French or English.