• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

TRADITIONS DEERHUNTER ???

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ZERMATT7 said:
Hangfires...

Are there any known permanent fixes for the hangfire problem ?

There isn't a "Permanent" fix. Just use a pipe cleaner in the flash tube to clean it and fire a couple primers off before you load the first time after you have cleaned to get the oil dried out.
 
Typically, hangfires are caused by:

Using a Black Powder substitute like Pyrodex, 777, etc.

Leaving a spent cap on the nipple or leaving the hammer down on the nipple when ramming the patch/ball down the barrel.

Oil or other liquids left in the flame channel (a small hole) which runs from the nipple to the bore

Fouling left in the flame channel from incomplete cleaning

A plugged nipple

Debris knocked loose from wiping the bore between shots.

Fixes to the above problems are:

Use real Black Powder if you can get it. It's ignition point is below 500 degrees F as compared with the 800+ degrees the replica powders require.

When loading, make sure the hammer is at half cock and there is no cap on the nipple.

Remove the nipple and run a pipe cleaner down thru the flame channel hole. Also, do not use excess oil to protect the bore. It often runs down into the flame channel where it will contaminate the loose powder granules in that area which promote ignition.

When cleaning a percussion gun, run a pipe cleaner down thru the flame channel to remove fouling.

Use a nipple prick (or a very small wire) to assure the passage is open.

When wiping the bore between shots use a lightly moistened patch on the jag. Push it to the bottom of the bore, count to 2 and then pull it back out.
The downstroke will wet the fouling, the count will allow it to soften and the upstroke will remove it.
Do not pump up and down on the rod or run a dry patch down the bore as this will knock the fouling loose and allow it to collect in the bottom of the bore where the flame channel is. Pumping up and down will blow the loose fouling debris into the flame channel where it will block the loose powder grains and the flame from the cap.

There are more things that help like exchanging the factory nipple for a Hot Shot or Spitfire nipple and using CCI Magnum caps but the bottom line is this: These are old fashioned guns using old technology and even the best of them will sometimes hangfire or misfire. It goes with the beast and when everything works like it is supposed to it makes a traditional muzzloader shooter grin from ear to ear.

zonie :)
 
I remove the screw and put a two grain 4f prime under the nipple when hunting. If the cap goes off, so will the gun!
 
I've heard of pulling the nipple and putting a prime in before. Never had any problems using TC hotshot niple, CCI #11 mag caps and triple seven powder. Guess if I had to resort to pulling the nipple and prime with 4f just to get it to shoot, I'd trade the gun off.
 
It sure seems like some of us are talking about different guns altogehter. Some are mentioning their "bolster" on the Deerhunter, but mine has no bolster. It's a drum system.

Also saw mention of the "plastic" sights, but I've never seen plastic sights on a Deerhunter. You can see by the pic below that mine has a typical fixed rear sight and came with the kit the rifle was built from.

Now that you have the screw out and replaced, the simple way to avoid future problems is to remove it each time you clean and put some bullet lube on the threads when it's replaced. Ir need not be torqued down much, just snug it up.

This rifle has not been shot much, but it shot will with a .490 and .495 ball with a fairly tight patch and 60 grains of goex ff. It also shot very well with a 370 grain maxiball and 60 grains of ff goex. It shot only ok with pyrodex in that ignition was clearly slower than with the real bp.

I want to try coning a muzzle and this will be the test gun for that project.

deerhunter.jpg


Also, concerning the disassembling and removal of a breech plug to remove a stuck ball seems like the hard way to do it. Have you tried shooting it out or using a ball puller?
 
I have 2 DeerHunters and one came with metal fixed sights and one came with adjustable fiber-optic sights.
 
Did you purchase the rifle new with the fiber optics? Could have been added by a previous owner.

The comment about the rear sight sliding on it's own was true of mine too, but it's way to simple to use a pucnch to tighten it into the dovetail when the desired position is located.
 
I wish mine had those sights on it!

Dhunter1.jpg


Dhunter2.jpg


Heck I would be happy if it was anything in a dovetail I could change!. It is plastic attached with a screw.
 
That's interesting! Apparently there are some variations on these guns. One would expect to find the fixed like mine on the flint and maybe the modern type like yours on the perc.

When i first got started with these ml guns i wanted the most adjustable and flexible sights possible. Now, most of my guns have a fixed front and rear and get their adjustments with a hammer and file :haha:

You could cut a dovetail and replace it too. If you have never cut a dovetail, get a piece of scrap barrel to practice a few before you go at your Deeerhunter. Don't ask how I know!! :shocked2:
 
A bolster is a drum. Same thing, different words. Don't let language lead you astray.
Moose
 
I am kind of shocked no one commented on the 1:66 markings on my gun. Most people say theirs are 1-48.
 
Gonna throw my two cents in here on this subject of the plastic sights. I just recently purchased a Traditions, St. Louis Hawken. It comes with a rear adjustable dovetail sight that attaches with two screws. The front is a slide in. Here is the catch they are both made of plastic. :shocked2:
So I am going to say the Deerhunter may have came the same way, and was probably upgraded by the previous owner.
When I found out the sights were plastic I emailed Traditions at there parts department. Told them that there sights were not acceptable and asked was there an upgrade available. That was a month ago still haven't heard from them.
I can imagine bumping a plastic sight on an extremely cold morning and seening it explode! I can see why someone would upgrade!!!!! :applause: :applause:
By the way I also asked Traditions for some screws that got damaged in the build. I gave then model number, serial number, parts number, the whole nine yards! Got tired of waitng for reply. This Spanish made, got an American upgrade. Retaped the holes and converted to standard. Who needs metric anyway! I would be willing to bet, if this one of those blamed in lines, I would have heard back within 48 hrs!!! :cursing:
 
I caught Sport's Authority selling out of these guns in response to the Randy Wakeman BS scare. I bought two of them new in the box. I sold the other one and I have 20$ and the taxes invested in mine. It is a very nice way to cheaply try out a flintlock without investing 500$. They both had the plastic sights. Mine doesn't have a front bead anymore. A bump in the woods on a cold morning removed that. The worst thing is that the plastic changes size in the cold. The ramp rear can come loose and slide around in the cold. Mine is sidelined until I get around to cutting a new dovetail for a real sight and browning the barrel. By the way. It was match accurate right out of the box, so the Traditions barrels seem to be very good.
 
My stock has seen it's last days. Anybody have one that will fit? I think CVA fits. Tried the swap once when I had a CVA.
 
My Traditions deer hunter is almost finished...decided to reblue the barrel this week.
Looking forward to trying it turkey hunting !
The thing ways about 1/2 as much as my hawken !!!

Added the 5mm Hex HEad screw...that shouild help !

Not Sure if the scope will stay on or not...Hardest stock to strip the finish off I've ever come accross (by far!)
Will the Cva Bob Cat stocks interchange with the Deerhunter ?

Would like to post some pics but I think I have to psot them somewhere else first and then do something ?
[url] http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/zermatt7/P2260001.jpg[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Back
Top