Traditions Hawken Woodsman hammer cocking issue

[Spaniel Day-Lewis]

Hello all, I have a .54 cal Traditions Hawken Woodsman Percussion rifle. Went out hunting today and when I got back to the truck fired my rifle to call it a day. I decided to shoot a few rounds since I hadn’t seen any sign of elk. Upon going to reload I realized my hammer wouldn’t stay at full cock. Half cock is still functioning. After getting home and doing some research I messed with the set trigger screws and can get it to lock but only by being the hammer all the way back, lowering it to right before half cock and then pulling it back again. Any advice is appreciated!

 

[Loyalist Dave]

A few questions...
Did you remove the lock and try the lock to see if it functions at the full and half-cock positions?
Did you then take a hard look at the sear where it comes into contact with the full-cock notch?

IF the lock doesn't function right when removed, sometimes there is crud or a teeny tiny metal burr that is preventing the sear from properly engaging the full-cock notch. This needs to be cleaned and removed.

Also if the lock is functioning or if it is closer to how it should work but sometimes acts odd..., check the sear as that sometimes indicates a damaged sear, usually part of the sear is chipped or broken. The deeper half-cock position then engages but the damaged edge of the sear won't properly engage the full-cock notch. In this case you need a new sear.

HOWEVER, I'm guessing that the lock will work fine when removed but when replaced into the stock, OOOPS it's back to malfunctioning. A very common problem. Some wood from the stock is rubbing, either against the sear, or against the tumbler on the lock, perhaps also the main spring, and causing the malfunction. It's amazing how little friction from the interior wood is needed that will cause some grief. So you need to scrape a little wood from within the lock mortise to correct this.

I always when this happens, is take a lit candle, and on the lock which I have degreased and has no grease or oil, I use the candle to deposit soot on all the working interior parts. Then I replace the lock, and give it a small tap with a wood mallet (OK full disclosure it's a wood crab mallet). Then I carefully remove the lock and voila, where the soot has transferred to the interior of the lock mortise is where the stock wood is touching the lock. I scrape the sooty areas on the stock, then repeat. After two or three times, I then try the lock again, to see if it's still misbehaving. Remember, you just scrape or sand, you don't take of more wood than a teeny tiny bit.

This will probably cure your problem. OH and remember if it gets really damp, or you're outside in damp weather for a long period, the problem might return due to the wood absorbing moisture. Just correct the problem the same way.

LD

 

[Frontier's]

I'd take the lock out and examine it. Make sure to clean and lube it, snug down the lock screws afterward. Could be the softer wood compressed, causing the trigger to pull up more into the sear.

Test: set the rear trigger first, then cock the hammer... does it engage fullcock? If yes, the problem is your set trigger hitting the sear while in the non set position.

 

[Spaniel Day-Lewis]

A few questions...
Did you remove the lock and try the lock to see if it functions at the full and half-cock positions?
Did you then take a hard look at the sear where it comes into contact with the full-cock notch?

IF the lock doesn't function right when removed, sometimes there is crud or a teeny tiny metal burr that is preventing the sear from properly engaging the full-cock notch. This needs to be cleaned and removed.

Also if the lock is functioning or if it is closer to how it should work but sometimes acts odd..., check the sear as that sometimes indicates a damaged sear, usually part of the sear is chipped or broken. The deeper half-cock position then engages but the damaged edge of the sear won't properly engage the full-cock notch. In this case you need a new sear.

HOWEVER, I'm guessing that the lock will work fine when removed but when replaced into the stock, OOOPS it's back to malfunctioning. A very common problem. Some wood from the stock is rubbing, either against the sear, or against the tumbler on the lock, perhaps also the main spring, and causing the malfunction. It's amazing how little friction from the interior wood is needed that will cause some grief. So you need to scrape a little wood from within the lock mortise to correct this.

I always when this happens, is take a lit candle, and on the lock which I have degreased and has no grease or oil, I use the candle to deposit soot on all the working interior parts. Then I replace the lock, and give it a small tap with a wood mallet (OK full disclosure it's a wood crab mallet). Then I carefully remove the lock and voila, where the soot has transferred to the interior of the lock mortise is where the stock wood is touching the lock. I scrape the sooty areas on the stock, then repeat. After two or three times, I then try the lock again, to see if it's still misbehaving. Remember, you just scrape or sand, you don't take of more wood than a teeny tiny bit.

This will probably cure your problem. OH and remember if it gets really damp, or you're outside in damp weather for a long period, the problem might return due to the wood absorbing moisture. Just correct the problem the same way.

LD

Thanks for the knowledge! Took your advice and it’s definitely working better. Also noticed a direct correlation with the tightness of the two screws that hold the lock and how the hammer functions (the tighter the worse the function). Now I just need to learn how to load it so it fires when out hunting!

 

[Grenadier1758]

You are over tightening your lock screws a wood in the lock mortise is rubbing on moving parts in your lock. No need to over tighten those bolts. They only need to be snug enough to keep the lock in the stock.

 

[Spaniel Day-Lewis]

You are over tightening your lock screws a wood in the lock mortise is rubbing on moving parts in your lock. No need to over tighten those bolts. They only need to be snug enough to keep the lock in the stock.

I think I have them tightened down to about 3-5 inch pounds of torque. It doesn’t feel tight but they don’t seem like they’ll back out. Either way I’ll keep an eye on them.

 

[Steve Wagner]

If you do remove any wood, per Dave's good advice, I would coat the area under the lock with an oil based, penetrating wood sealer to keep it from swelling again from humidity. Water based sealers will negate your light bit of wood removal to free up the lock. Oil based products will do that some, but not nearly as much. For my wood stocked rifles, I mask off visible wood and use Minwax Helmsman spar varnish spray a couple of times on any raw wood. The aerosol is thinner than the brush on, and penetrates better. Easy to sand again if you need to remove more wood. As it soaks in and dries, it also hardens the wood a bit.
I learned all this from Jim Bridger's supply inventory list. Aerosol varnish was a staple back in the day. SW

 

[French Colonial]

the hammer all the way back, lowering it to right before half cock and then pulling it back again

Sounds like the fly is hanging up some how and "lowering it to right before half cock" is pushing the fly forward.

 

[Rudyard]

If you do remove any wood, per Dave's good advice, I would coat the area under the lock with an oil based, penetrating wood sealer to keep it from swelling again from humidity. Water based sealers will negate your light bit of wood removal to free up the lock. Oil based products will do that some, but not nearly as much. For my wood stocked rifles, I mask off visible wood and use Minwax Helmsman spar varnish spray a couple of times on any raw wood. The aerosol is thinner than the brush on, and penetrates better. Easy to sand again if you need to remove more wood. As it soaks in and dries, it also hardens the wood a bit.
I learned all this from Jim Bridger's supply inventory list. Aerosol varnish was a staple back in the day. SW

Really I never knew that .Rudyard .

If all this fails chuck it in the Flathead just don't let fish & game see you doing it .Ime being levitous, I've never seen a' Traditions 'any thing. The backing off of the side nails & soot idea should work R

 

[Steve Wagner]

Really I never knew that .Rudyard .

If all this fails chuck it in the Flathead just don't let fish & game see you doing it .Ime being levitous, I've never seen a' Traditions 'any thing. The backing off of the side nails & soot idea should work R

Unfortunately Rudyard, I have it on good authority from a scuba diver friend, that the most common preserved artifact on the bottom of Flathead Lake is the porcelain toilet. It seems the good people of Big Fork, Somers [sorry waksupi], Lakeside and Poulson have had an historical penchant for disposing of of their obsolete commodes in that lake. And unlike however many muzzleloaders that may have fallen in since they arrived, the toilet lives forever, in all its glory.
If there was any money in it, FWP would start a "Hooked on Toilets" program to fish them out. As it is, the northern pike and superior whitefish both love to nest in them. Happy eating. SW

 

[Rudyard]

Unfortunately Rudyard, I have it on good authority from a scuba diver friend, that the most common preserved artifact on the bottom of Flathead Lake is the porcelain toilet. It seems the good people of Big Fork, Somers [sorry waksupi], Lakeside and Poulson have had an historical penchant for disposing off their obsolete commodes in that lake. And unlike however many muzzleloaders that may have fallen in since they arrived, the toilet lives forever, in all its glory.
If there was any money in it, FWP would start a "Hooked on Toilets" program to fish them out. As it is, the northern pike and superior whitefish both love to nest in them. Happy eating. SW

Dear Steve I was only up that way for an NMLRA Western R vouse' I got there curtousy of Burlington Northern' s Spokane to Whitefish goods division And the Marshall showed me the muzzle of his riot gun, But it was all very polite low key . I wasn't the Droid they where looking for . Later I was visiting Jerry Cunningham but I got the low line service from Sand point ,.So hitched up from Missoula he was always an interesting conversationalist & of course I bought barrels
Regards Rudyard

 

[Steve Wagner]

Great stuff, Rudyard. I have lived here 30 years and you're not the 1st person I have met that discovered the Flathead courtesy of BNSF freight. Glad you got the Marshall and not the Yard Bull. Marshalls have rules they have to follow. Yard Bulls are not Walmart Greeters, that's for sure.
Apologies for the hijack men. Just 2 old duffers comparing geographies. Carry on. SW