Traditions Kentucky with vent location problems

[stewart.leach]

Recently bought a Traditions Kentucky flinter for a song and a little dancing. Not used much by first owner, well maintained and stored several years. My intention is to use it as a loaner gun for new shooters.

After firing it myself I realized why the seller let it go cheap. Ignition is poor- slow and not at all certain. The vent is so low and far forward that it was partly covered by the edge of the pan. I Dremeled the pan as much as I dare, making it deeper and wider. There was a little improvement. I want to make this rifle as easy to use as possible for new shooters, and have it not be fussy about minimal charge in the pan and oh by the way, you have to keep the rifle tipped to the right so the prime doesn't block the vent.

I'd like your thoughts on this idea:

Remove existing 5mm x .75mm threaded vent

Silver solder an appropriate length of 5mm x .75mm bolt in hole, dress flat, peen edges

Drill and tap for 1/4 x 28 vent in proper "sunrise" location- this would surely overlap the plug in the factory hole

Do you see any problems with this, other than the general nuisance? I have the 1/4 x 28 tooling on hand.

I was surprised how poorly the internal lock parts were fitted and finished. While I had it apart for grinding the pan I dressed a ridge off the lug on the frizzen, deburred and shined up the frizzen spring, rounded a sharp burr off the sear spring where it bore on the sear, and smoothed the hook on the mainspring.

Next thoughts that come to mind are to lower and round the comb, and glue and pin things together to get a one-piece stock.

So, what say you?

 

[Ames]

You nailed it. 9 out of 10 of the next responses will urge you to do just what you said.
Go for it! I would.

 

[bang]

Pics if you can big help.
Hole fwd think about moving barrel aft.
Low, bed barrel.
Both.

 

[64Springer]

I'm in the 9 camp.

 

[TDM]

A photo of the vent hole location would help to determine if further dremeling was needed. I’d make sure your vent hole is 1/16” and nicely coned on the backside. Also, take your lock apart are hone your tumbler and sear.

 

[64Springer]

Pics if you can big help.
Hole fwd think about moving barrel aft.
Low, bed barrel.
Both.

Moving the barrel aft means drilling for new tenon pins. Possibly having to install new tenons first. And it will throw off the nose cap screw placement. Old stock holes would need to be plugged.

Bedding the barrel higher means increasing the height of the tang above the wrist. He would need to dress the tang down to meet the stock. Then would need to match the original barrel bluing.

Drilling for a new vent is much easier.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I put an L&R lock in a TC, the TC vent didn't match the L&R lock pan worth a hoot. I lowered the barrel and moved it back 1/4" for a perfect sunset vent location. I had to jump through some major hoops to accomplish this, your method is easier.

 

[Phil Coffins]

It was cheap! After a lot of work it will cure anyones interested in beginning muzzleloading. New shooters need something to enhance their experience not a test of their choice.

 

[stewart.leach]

Thanks for all the replies. Your advice is valued. I will go ahead and plug the original hole, then drill and tap for a new vent. Already bought the 5mm x .75mm bolt. Will remove plating by heating with torch, then dunking in ice water. Differential thermal contraction will cause plating to flake off.

Believe I will go ahead with recontouring comb of buttstock. Just to make the rifle different, will strip all factory finish, then stain very dark and refinish with tung oil varnish. Who knows where this may end? Might even brown all the steel and tarnish all the brass. As a retired old coot I have the time during these cold winter months.