• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Traditions Pennsylvania Flintlock issues.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks like you did a good job and should work fine. And that is NOT a Chambers White Lightening touch hole liner. Looks like a factory or equivalent replacement liner.
Not a factory liner. If you want to see the factory original vent liner go back to my earlier pictures that show the factory liner on my Traditions Pennsylvania Longrifle. it is nowhere near as large as the one on the OP's liner.

When most of that liner was obscured by the pan it appeared to me to be a White Lightening by Jim Chambers because that was the only liner I've ever see that was that huge. If it was a factory liner, do you really think that the vent hole would have been blocked like that? It never would have been able to fire at all. As soon as the pan was Dremeled down enough to expose that screwdriver line across from it, it became evident it wasn't one of Jim's liners because you can't remove them with a screwdriver and it looks like this one could be. Since he removed it, I would be very interested in knowing if it was coned from the inside (cone expanding towards the inside as opposed to constricting), which was a big advantage of the White Lightening liners. It absolutely has an aftermarket vent liner and what looks like a botched job installing it. Glad the OP was able to Dremel that pan down far enough to get it to work.
 
Remove the tang screws then see if hole position changed from a preload.
If it improves shim the tang.
If not grind away or both.
if the pan is covering the touch hole by 50% then a .030 shim should do the trick. i dont think a .030" would cause a very noticeable metal to wood fit problem..... even so you could just taper the edges of the tang to get the fit back.
 
if the pan is covering the touch hole by 50% then a .030 shim should do the trick. i dont think a .030" would cause a very noticeable metal to wood fit problem..... even so you could just taper the edges of the tang to get the fit back.
you could also use glass bedding under the tang...not HC but you wouldnt have to have another loose piece when cleaning
 

Latest posts

Back
Top