Traditions Rifle Kit, completed photos please.

[tgfrench]

Take your time on getting the tang and barrel inletted tightly against the stock. The kits are "roughly inletted, it takes some work for proper seating. Do the barrel pins as the very last step, after everything is shaped and fitted. Omitting the brass spacer isn't the best action unless you are willing to make a new muzzle fitting. Even if you use the brass spacer it may necessitate some work fitting that area with additional spacers of some form.
These kits are pretty plain janes so its up to you to do your thing. But you can build a rifle that will compare with other custom rifles with these kits.

 

[tgfrench]

Aqua fortis and Danish oil. And my most recent update with checkering.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

What are your skills? I have done 2, one percussion and one flint. I joined the stock halves permanently and made new nosecaps, and used Fiebrings leather dye to stain the wood. Here's a couple pics, but you can find more details in my posts elsewhere on these forums.

Nice job! You turned a pigs ear into a silk purse!

 

[ArmorerRoy]

My brass stock spacer was too small to fit the intended gap so I dry fitted the two pieces then took the gap measurement. With the measurement I made a wood spacer to replace the brass. Other than the spacer itself I didn’t need to modify the nose cap.

They are cheap in every way but mine actually shoots very accurately with hand cast round balls.

 

[Greg_E]

Aqua fortis and Danish oil. And my most recent update with checkering.

I like the checkering, I plan on doing something similar on mine after I can get a bit more practice and figure out a design. I have an 18 line per inch tool kit, but think I want to buy the straight side tools to make flat top checkers. I did make a 2:1 and 1.5:1 guide to make "traditional" patterns for the period, but the kit also came with the standard Dembart guide to make the longer diamonds. I'm going to look at the angles present and go with the closest ratio.

 

[Tumbledown]

I am thinking of trying a light coat of stain before I do ANY shaping or sanding in the area where the woods meet. Is there enough material there so it can be sanded out and changed? Also for those who chose to forgo the brass spacer. Did you need to modify the muzzle brass? I have not seen my kit as yet.

The barrel channel provides ample opportunity to test different stains.

 

[Tyler L]

I replaced the brass spacer with walnut. Used 1/16" drill rod for the barrel pins, finish is Keda Dyes, and Tru Oil.

*Oops, the lighting wasn't great when I took this photo!

 

[user 55881]

Take your time on getting the tang and barrel inletted tightly against the stock. The kits are "roughly inletted, it takes some work for proper seating. Do the barrel pins as the very last step, after everything is shaped and fitted. Omitting the brass spacer isn't the best action unless you are willing to make a new muzzle fitting. Even if you use the brass spacer it may necessitate some work fitting that area with additional spacers of some form.
These kits are pretty plain janes so its up to you to do your thing. But you can build a rifle that will compare with other custom rifles with these kits.

Thank You! The barrel pin advice is most welcome.

 

[ArmorerRoy]

Dont forget that most of those kits two part wood stock don't look like they came from the same tree. Some fancy finish probably wont match.

 

[user 48702]

Traditions Crockett Rifle kit that I finished several months ago. Thinned the stock, lengthened the wrist, sights from TOW, escutcheon plates and screws are T/C Hawken. Replaced tang and lock bolts with ones purchased from TOW. Lock was stripped of the faux case color, tuned, and browned with Laurel Mtn, as was the barrel. Brass was polished and blackened, and stock was finished with Fiebings alcohol based brown and dark brown (mixed to desired color), then a light coat of Tru-Oil. Ramrod is hickory from TOW.

More photos in album Crockett Kit