Trigger Adjustment

[0321jarhead]

As a newby in this field of arms, I have a new Lyman GPR .50, percussian. The trigger pull has been factory adjusted to its max on being sensitive by turning the adjustment screw clockwise. I want it REALLY light to the touch. Last weekend at a Ron-day-vew (hows my spelling?) I met a on sight gunsmith that told me the adjusting screw needs to be slightly longer. Its metric. Where can I find a screw that could work? What is its thread size? Thanks for advise;-)

 

[necchi]

It's an 8 x 2.5 metric thread, most harware stores that have the "drawers" for misc nuts, bolts, and screws have'm.
It's said the same size screw can be found in many olde scraped out Tape decks/VCR's/electronics stuff

 

[0321jarhead]

Makes sense. Good to know. Now, to find that old 8 track.

 

[LRB]

"Really light"? You will have to adjust the trigger mainspring, and the sear spring in the lock, and polish all contact points. Also the amount of sear contact on the tumbler notch will need reduction. That adjustment screw in the trigger does not change the weight of trigger pull, only the distance that the trigger travels to let off.

 

[0321jarhead]

That would be the ticket. "Travel distance." The least the better. I would like it that when I barely touch it....BANG!

 

[necchi]

Wick: Alot of the lyman set screws are notorious for being just a tad short of that sweet adjustment.

0321jarhead: Keep it safe man, ya still wanna handle it with out it going off.
If you really want sweet,, swap out the stock trigger with a Davis DeerSlayer, hands down the best "upgrade" that can be made to a Lyman or TC; http://www.redaviscompany.com/1007.html

 

[0321jarhead]

Thank you. I'll check it out. But, my trigger isn't broken yet so I'm not going to replace it so soon on this rifle. So, in the meantime I'll try a little longer screw. But, thanks just the same. :thumbsup:

 

[StewartLeach]

First off, a longer/heavier pull that is consistent will let you shoot better than a too light/short pull. Always test the safety of your trigger setting by slapping the side of the stock really hard several times.

The screw supplied by Lyman was specified by lawyers. They don't want us to be able to set the pull very light/short for liability reasons. You can gain a little additional adjustment by thinning the screw head from the underside. Chuck the shank in your hole shooter and apply a fine file.

For more adjustment, get a replacement screw from a major hardware store or electronic gadget salvage. Replacement screws may be loose in the tapped hole, and once the setting is found should be secured with rosin (period correct) or LocTite. The new screw will probably have bright plating, and stand out like a red one at shortarm inspection. Heat up in your propane torch, drop into ice water so the differential cooling will flake off the plating.(thanks to Paul V. for this tip!) Make the Phillips head less obvious by cutting a full width slot with hack saw or swiss file, and finish with cold blue.

White Fox

 

[0321jarhead]

Thanks. What you have explained is pretty much of what I already thought of. Locktite 222 is what I usually use. As for trigger travel. Lesser the better. For example, Standing position + takeing aim (focus on target)+ breathing (exhale)+ squeezing trigger(long trigger travel distance)= stress on arm muscles which then you will not have a for sure shot in the black because of shaking. Drink some coffee or some of that high caffine junk. That makes one a great shooter.LOL.The lesser the distance with a VERY LITE trigger pull of 1 lb. or less will show positve results on your objective. When a rifle is resting on cross sticks or bench shooting for lets say sighting in, the trigger pull is then irrelevant.

 

[t-buck]

the important part of the trigger pull is for the shooter to be consistent with the way he pulls the trigger but this is not all that makes the shot good
there are many things that have to happen to make a good scoring shot and they all involve the shooter being consistent in what and how he
1. loads the gun // same charge/ same patching-lube // same pressure on ball when seating
2. how the gun is held the same for each shot
3. the position of the gun to the shoulder// the firmness it is held// the position of the head on the stock
4 and don't forget the same sight picture used shot to shot
these are just a few things that you have to be consistent in to make successive good shots
just having a light short stroke trigger will not accomplish what you are looking for
in fact it may do just the opposite and cause you to be less consistent by the gun going bang before you have all the other in place
not to mention the safety issues you would have with it
just my opinion
t-buck

 

[0321jarhead]

You are absolutly right. But, the trigger in my case is just one of factors. What you wrote, you are correct. What I have been taught and the same in which I teach others has been a major factor in my life. I probably sound like a butthead right now but, when it comes to arms I thank OUR government. As for black powder/muzzleloaders, it is a subject that I did not have to learn but, I am now. And I appreciate thoughs folks that are feeding me with all kinds of great info. And I'm having fun too.

 

[t-buck]

jarhead
don't take my comments as being disrespectful to you or as putting you down in any way
i do a lot of competition shooting and see a lot of people that when they first start think that a very lite trigger is the answer to their problems with shooting a good group
some will listen to experience and they do get better and will continue in the sport
others have their mind set and nothing you can tell them will change what they believe already they never improve very much and eventually loose interest and fade away
i hate to see that happen
anyway good luck with your project hope that you find something that works out for you
t-buck

 

[necchi]

For both you guy's;
The screw adjustment does not change the trigger pull weight in the same manner as an adjustment with modern guns.
It adjusts the travel before the trigger breaks.

It still can be set to be unsafe, and caution should be used when attempting to get a light trigger break with double set double throw triggers.

I agree with t-buck to a point, trigger break shouldn't be used to compensate for poor shooting technique,
And unless someone has gone through advanced military training, there is much to learn about shooting.

 

[t-buck]

hey necchi
i understand about the adjustment screw and agree with you about technique and the training to get it
my first comments were more towards jarheads opening post were he stated that he was new to this and i assumed from the way he stated that it was in firearms and shooting in general and just wanted to help him
and as i said meant no disrespect to him or any one else
i have not bee on this forum long did not know it was here and found it by accident but so far it has been a joy to read some of the post here a lot of good info and a lot of people that do not hesitate to pitch in and offer help to others
every one here take care
t-buck

 

[paulvallandigham]

Don't forget the alignment of your shoulders to the target, and your foot position. Both have to be RIGHT to shoot well, off-hand.

To get your feet right, and the shoulder squared to your target, mount the gun as you normally would to your shoulder, aim it at the bullseye or target, and THEN, CLOSE YOUR EYES.

COUNT TO FIVE SLOWLY.

Open your eyes. If the front sight is Not on the target, or bullseye, move your REAR foot to move the sight onto the target.

Rest. Exhale, and dump the Lactic acid in your muscles- arms, and neck.

Now, Repeat the exercise. Eventually, when you get your body positioned correctly, the sights will stay on the target for that 5 second "Hold". Your muscles will be in 'harmony', Working for you, and not against each other.

If you are required to step back off the firing line and reload at another location, Do this exercise every time you step to the firing line. I mark my foot positions on the ground for both feet, to speed this process up. :hmm:

I have learned to do this with all long guns- both rifles, and shotguns. The position for your feet for shooting a rifle accurately is different than what you should use to shoot a shotgun at moving targets. For stationary targets, they are the same. :shocked2: You need to learn them both. :hmm: :thumbsup: Eventually- as when you get as old as "dirt"----- you don't have to think much about how to stand when shooting, but you find yourself checking it, just the same! :grin:

 

[0321jarhead]

I am not takeing any of what is thrown my way personally. In the begining of this topic I mentioned that I am "NEW TO THIS FIELD OF FIREARMS" gentlemen. A little about me on this arms subject. I am a veteran of the United States Marine Corps. 0321 was my primary M.O.S. (Recon), Currently hold an FFL license, Shoot I.D.P.A., 3 gun, M1 Garand Matches and former M1 Garand chairman at Diablo Rod and Gun in Concord Calif., Created at the gun club Military Arms Matches, Gunsmithing and rifle/pistol restorations, teach Home Defense (shotgun, pistol, pepper spray, Registered with the California Bureau of Investigative Services. There is more. The point I am trying to make is that "BLACKPOWDER/MUZZLELOADING" is a NEW venture for me. To me its fun and relaxing and I have been meeting some really nice folks. So, I know you guys are helping me learn a thing or two on this cool forum, and I appreciate it all. Thanks :wink:

 

[t-buck]

no problem jarhead
just keep on with it and it will be fun
glad to be able to help you some and i will be more than glad for your help in return if i ever need it
little info on me i am retired from fed law enforcement shot on the pistol team for years
also ffl holder love to teach kids to respect be safe and shoot firearms
t-buck

 

[0321jarhead]

Thank you T-Buck for understanding :hatsoff: . Kids are great to teach. There minds are so full of curiosity and yet they listen sometimes better than adults. Back to the trigger-I like it short and sensitive. Kind of like my Savage 10FPLE. The accu-trigger. I'll work on the screw. :v

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have known all kinds of competitive shooters with extensive backgrounds, including military training, that apparently were never taught the importance of foot placement for accurate shooting. I am talking about all disciplines- all kinds of guns. One friend, a retired fed. agent, and shooting coach in his own right, told me that I am the first "coach" to show him how to align his shoulders, and feet. Altho he grew up with shotguns, he really never was very good hitting flying targets, like clays, until I showed him the difference between the stance we use for rifles and handguns, and what is needed to hit clay targets with a shotgun pattern.

The Best part about helping "Old" students, who have lots of skills already mastered is that they follow instruction well, and when it produces results, they quickly adopt the "new" training. And, yes, I did have one friend who admitted to me that what I taught him about stances is the same thing he was taught years ago, but that he had forgotten. He wondered why his later coaches never said anything to him! :shocked2:

I have several passions in life, Tracking, and Shooting being two of them. I began cutting sign, and reading footprints and sign long before I fired my first gun. But, it has made particularly conscious of people's feet, stance, and gaits.

Shooting is not a "Natural " body activity. It takes practice to do well. All of us benefit from tips and coaching from time to time. I don't know any of the top competition shooters who don't use coaches- some less than others.

Those shooters who are " Lone Eagles" should take some guidance from our US Sniper Teams: they are two-man teams, not lone shooters taking on the enemy. Any sniper will tell you that without his spotter( coach) he could not make the accurate long distance shots he does.

Welcome to Muzzleloading. Shooting these old guns will make you a better shooter of all of your new guns. Don't hesitate to share your pearls of wisdom with the rest of us. :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

 

[matt denison]

Wick said:

..."Really light"? You will have to adjust the trigger mainspring, and the sear spring in the lock, and polish all contact points. Also the amount of sear contact on the tumbler notch will need reduction. That adjustment screw in the trigger does not change the weight of trigger pull, only the distance that the trigger travels to let off."

After working on several of these locks I have to agree with this statement.

No matter how you place your feet it will not lighten your trigger pull.