Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Things do seem to get overly complicated here.
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Trigger Guard Inletting
- Thread starter Buckskinn
- Start date
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Buckskinn
45 Cal.
In my humble opinion, I wouldn't consider those acorns simply rounded. If there would have been a consensus to leave them on I would have ordered another, since there wasn't, the acorns are spare parts. And I slept well last night...
Still not sure if I should sacrifice the one on the rear of the guard or not.
Still not sure if I should sacrifice the one on the rear of the guard or not.
Black Hand
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I guess I just don't understand why these simple shapes were considered so difficult to inlet. Might have added 15-30 minutes to the process at most....
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
Well I guess that shows the difference between a master builder and a novice, although time was never a factor.
Black Hand
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I am in no way a master - everyone can do it (if they choose to), just that it might take a little more time if you aren't as experienced.
Stophel
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I disagree most wholeheartedly. Not everyone can do it. Not everyone can sing or write novels or paint portraits or calculate rocket velocities. And not everyone can be a gunsmith. This is certainly not a popular position these days, yet it is no less true.
Black Hand
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If he has inlet the other parts of the rifle he is currently building, inletting a triggerguard isn't any more difficult....
Most people could do it, but their interests lie elsewhere. Just because they don't in no way means they couldn't if they chose to. It is a matter of desire rather than inherent skill - even the most skilled gunsmith started somewhere.
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
It's not that I couldn't inlay the detail, pretty sure I could do that with little issue. The problem is that it is not laying flush with the bottom of the stock. I did not consider the width of the guard when shaping the stock (yep, rookie). With more experience under my belt I could probably make it work, but I am about 80% done with this project and could potentially really jack it up trying to save those acorns. Not worth it to me!
I was trying to slightly bend the guard when it cracked. I'm calling it devine intervention...
I was trying to slightly bend the guard when it cracked. I'm calling it devine intervention...
Black Hand
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Which is why I suggest flattening the dome, since the area under the guard would be flat anyway. Take away a little of the dome, inlet the guard straight down and blend the wood when you are done. Either way, you would need to do this anyway and the presence of the finial doesn't really change this...
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
I did that as far as I felt I could without it impacting trigger plate/flow out of forend.
I don't know why I keep justifying my decision, sucker I guess. So this is my closing.
I don't know why I keep justifying my decision, sucker I guess. So this is my closing.
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
Alright, Black Hand! I'm certainly not saying you have more influence on me than God, but I'm going to give it another go... After some more looking, filing and fiddling I think I have enough room for those damn acorns. They seem to lay out very well now, although much easier when not attached. Maybe I should inlay them separate and glue them in,,, just kidding.
Are most of the trigger guard castings for the Marshall rifle made by the same shop or at least same dimensions/quality? Any recommendations for suppliers? Or should I get it from Chambers again? I need to order a few possibles and figured two birds... Chambers is also painfully slow at shipping. But I want to make sure the Davis set trigger will fit.
Are most of the trigger guard castings for the Marshall rifle made by the same shop or at least same dimensions/quality? Any recommendations for suppliers? Or should I get it from Chambers again? I need to order a few possibles and figured two birds... Chambers is also painfully slow at shipping. But I want to make sure the Davis set trigger will fit.
Black Hand
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Glad you have enough confidence in yourself to proceed - don't sell yourself short on what you can accomplish. This was my point from the start...
Will the set trigger work in the inlet and will the trigger-bar line up with the sear bar?
Will the set trigger work in the inlet and will the trigger-bar line up with the sear bar?
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
Trigger is good to go, works perfectly. Fit well in nutless guard also.
Black Hand
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Buckskinn,
Also keep in mind that tiny gaps around the guard likely will swell when you stain and finish the wood. Don't worry overly about a perfectly tight fit in the raw wood. I am not saying it's OK to be sloppy but tiny gaps will disappear. Dave Price, who is a master builder of swivel breech rifles was showing another great builder, Mark Silver, how he inlets a lock plate. He was tracing around it very accurately with a razor sharp knife. Then he stabbed in the edges with his inletting chisel for a perfect fit. Mark said he was wasting his time because when he finished the gun, he would have to scrape the edges of the inlet to allow the part to set in after the wood swelled. Mark told him to just outline the part with a sharp pencil and stab the inside edge of the line. The part drops in with light finger pressure and when the wood was finished, the fit was perfectly tight. Moreover, there was no risk of breaking off a chip on the edge of a really tight inlet when the part was removed and replaced periodically during building. Dave's inlet that way ever since.
dave
Also keep in mind that tiny gaps around the guard likely will swell when you stain and finish the wood. Don't worry overly about a perfectly tight fit in the raw wood. I am not saying it's OK to be sloppy but tiny gaps will disappear. Dave Price, who is a master builder of swivel breech rifles was showing another great builder, Mark Silver, how he inlets a lock plate. He was tracing around it very accurately with a razor sharp knife. Then he stabbed in the edges with his inletting chisel for a perfect fit. Mark said he was wasting his time because when he finished the gun, he would have to scrape the edges of the inlet to allow the part to set in after the wood swelled. Mark told him to just outline the part with a sharp pencil and stab the inside edge of the line. The part drops in with light finger pressure and when the wood was finished, the fit was perfectly tight. Moreover, there was no risk of breaking off a chip on the edge of a really tight inlet when the part was removed and replaced periodically during building. Dave's inlet that way ever since.
dave
Black Hand
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Even with a sharp chisel, some wood compression will occur. I have used this to my advantage by wetting the area with boiling water - works the same way as when you steam out a dent. This closes minor gaps and will whisker the stock at the same time.
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
Good to know. Thanks!
Any opinions on where to get guard?
Any opinions on where to get guard?
Black Hand
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I'd suggest the same place you got the kit. A single guard should ship quickly - I broke the tumbler notch in a Chambers lock and they shipped one within a few days.
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Hi Scott,
Just call Barbie at Chambers. If they have one in stock, she will get it out quickly. I assume it will cost about $35-$40. Chambers castings generally are better than what you get from Track of the Wolf or the other general suppliers. Track of the Wolf carries one but they are currently out of stock and have been for quite a while. I hope Chambers has them in stock.
dave
