Trigger Guard Question

[fosters]

Here is my 1st of probably many stupid questions. I ordered a component set awhile ago and just got around to really looking at it. I just noticed that the trigger guard only has a front tab to pin to the stock and no back tab. How does one secure the back? Most I've seen have 2 1 front and 1 rear to pin. Oh yes it is my 1st attempt at a build, but I've watched about every DVD and have bought about every book/manual I can get my hands on for the last year. I've not see this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Capt. Fred]

What style gun is it?

 

[fosters]

J.P. Beck.. ish.

 

[Stophel]

Well, you could silver solder a new tenon on if you wanted (I HATE doing triggerguards with tenons on the rear...), or you could use a wood screw. Someone more familiar with Beck's guns can tell you if he ever used screws here, or if all his triggerguards are pinned at the rear.

 

[fosters]

I guess my question is how do you attach the rear of the trigger guard without a tab other than a wood screw which I really do not like nor does the acorn design front and rear lend itself very well too.

Your servant
fosters

 

[Zonie]

I'm surprised your trigger guard doesn't have a gate/riser at the rear.

If it were mine I would use a silver bearing solder to solder a 1/8" thick brass or low carbon steel tab to it.
Note, the silver bearing solder I'm speaking of is the kind that melts around 550 degrees F. Do not use the 1200+ degree silver braze material.

Because the strength of the soldered joint is dependent on the amount of surface area at the joint I would not use 1/16 or 1/32 inch material.
File a nice flat on both pieces as you will want them to be in close contact at the soldered joint.

I would lean towards using brass for the tab because there is less pressure needed to drill the pin hole thru it. If there is enough material on the front tab you might consider cutting some off and using it at the rear.

 

[Stophel]

I do use the "1200+ degree silver braze". Makes for a very solid joint. :wink:

 

[fosters]

Hey guys thanks for your help on this. Creating my own may be the way I'll have to go on this. I'd give you more info on which component set it is, but It's sort of a surprise and I'm affraid the guy that it may eventually go to may be a member of this site. He's my brother and it's for his son. Can the inlet alone hold the rear in place? It's an very expensive set so there must be a reason or they sent me the wrong guard. That's why I'm asking here before I call the company so I do not look like a complete idiot. Threw me a curve.

Your servant
fosters

 

[hoochiepapa]

Maybe I'm reading wrong, but "acorn finial"? That sound like a fowler trigger guard, and it still should have a boss for pinning. Maybe post some pics?

 

[Stophel]

Far easier to attach a tenon to the rear than to make your own triggerguard! :grin:

And no, the inlet alone will definitely NOT hold it in place.

 

[Stophel]

And if it is a "fowler type" guard, with the long rail behind the triggerguard bow, you will probably want two tenons on the back part.

 

[hoochiepapa]

:thumbsup:

 

[fosters]

I'd love to post a pict, but I'm tech challenged. If you all have the Log Cabin Shop Catalog, they have several trigger guards without a rear tab, like the Early Jaeger and the English Fowler which the pict does not show a rear tab. So there must be a trick I would imagine.

Once again
Your Servant
fosters

 

[flintriflesmith]

I guess my question is how do you attach the rear of the trigger guard without a tab other than a wood screw which I really do not like nor does the acorn design front and rear lend itself very well too.

Your servant
fosters

Sounds like something other than a JP Beck rifle guard if it has an acorn finial to the rear. Post a picture if you can.

 

[Stophel]

The only "trick" is to solder a new tab on. :wink: The guard should have been supplied with the tenon still attached, but apparently somebody decided to saw it off. You could call them and see about returning it and having them send you one that still has the tenon attached.

 

[TARL01]

I completly agree. Send it back and get another (correct) one.
Woody

 

[saber]

what gun are you building some were screwed down in the rear some Jaeger and some tenn mt rifles

 

[Zonie]

The J.P.Beck rifles shown on pages 248 and 249 in "Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle" very clearly show the rear trigger guard pin going into the side of the stock.

In "Rifles of Colonial America" pp.430-445 three J.P. Beck which G. Shumway feels are early guns have (to me) unusual trigger guards in that they do not have a rail which stands off of the bottom of the wrist. The guard flows down to join the wrist right after the bow. Neither end has an 'acorn' shape, rather they have what could be described as leaves coming out of a narrow necked vase.

A rifle Shumway feels is more of the Federal period with a stand off rail aft of the bow.
Both ends of the guard are squared off rather than having a vase or acorn and both ends are pinned to the stock.

 

[Eric Krewson]

My first(and only so far) build was a Beck. The rifle is a little rough, should have sanded more. Of course it has a Rich Pierce flint, makes it go bang right now.

Anyway, I bought my furniture from a place that said they made molds from an original Beck rifle to cast their brass.

Here is a one of their trigger guards, no acorns and pinned at both ends.

 

[hoochiepapa]

I don't know, Eric, from where I sit, that's a pretty nice looki' rifle. :thumbsup: