Trigger pull

[Homesteader]

I know this is a real neophyte question, but I'd appreciate some advice on it anyway. Many many (many) years ago I put together a sort of "Frontier" flintlock pistol from bits and pieces I found, bartered for, etc. I thought it was lost and gone, but I just found it among some of my things.

It's in pretty good shape, but the trigger pull is horrendous. It's a 36 caliber rifled barrel with a badly carved full maple stock, a small (1/2" flint) lock, and it's not badly rusted at all. I never fired it, btw. (Probably because it was too blasted hard to pull the trigger!)

I know I should just re-do the entire thing, but I'm curious as to why the trigger pull is so hard, and how I can lighten it up. No set screws inside the lock, and lube doesn't make much difference.

Just curious if you all know of any tricks or tips for lightening the pull. Thanks very much.

 

[Zonie]

The lock is the first thing to look at.

With the lock removed from the stock, without cocking the lock push up on the sear arm (the thing the trigger pushes on).
It should move without too much force. If it doesn't, try loosening the screw that goes thru it just a little. Sometimes, these screws are overtightened which can make it almost impossible to move the sear.

If that doesn't make a difference, remove the sear spring that pushes down on the sear arm.
Cock the lock and push up on the sear release (after getting your fingers away from the cock and frizzen). If the sear arm releases the tumbler easily, the problem is with the spring.
The spring can be lightened by removing material from the width of it with a oilstone. Work parallel with the spring blades.

If that doesn't lighten the pull, the problem may be the angle of the sear notch in the tumbler.
This area is very sensitive and the angle should not be messed with unless your very familure with what to do, and what not to do.

Another problem may be the location of the pin the trigger pivots on. If it is too far away from the sear arm, it will make the trigger hard to pull with a good lock.
The closer it is to the sear arm, the easier the trigger pull will be, but this comes at the price of increased trigger travel.

Other things to look which can make the trigger pull hard (if not prevent the lock from working entirely) is the sear arm rubbing on the stock wood when the lock is installed. This is the easiest thing to fix of all because all you need to do is to remove the offending wood.

 

[Tinker2]

Have you tried the lock out of the stock?
Is it binding on the wood?
Is the trigger binding on the wood or trigger guard?


Tinker2

 

[CARBABY]

Which is the culprit lock or trigger mechanism? If possible obtain a pull scale. If available use trigger pull scale. If not some times a real light fish scale can be used. (The type that has a hook on the end and used to weigh fish) Some thing that shows ounces and pounds is what your looking for. If no scale is available then rig up a cup and string that can be utilize. The idea here is to add weight in the cup until the lock is activated. One can then take the weight {plus cup} to the post office and use their Scales to see what ounces and pounds starts things in motion. You are measuring two things. 1. The pressure needed to activate “Just the lock” and 2. The pressure needed to activate the lock with the trigger assembly. If the pressure to release the lock with the trigger assembly is MORE than just the lock pressure. Start with the trigger assembly. Sounds more difficult than it really is. The cup method: Measuring the Trigger pull weight ~ Tie a loop in one end of a string Tie the other end to a cup (open top aluminum can also be used). The cup/can should look like a little bucket. Secure the gun muzzle up some way, place the loop of the string on the trigger and start adding weight in the cup/can. When the lock is activated Measure the weight of the string+can+contents. The same type thing is done with just the lock ”“ {possibly secure the lock in a vise with padded jaw). I have tried this on various Newbie’s first builds and noticed 2 plus pounds difference on trigger mechanism versus trigger + lock.

 

[Vaino]

On some pistols the trigger geometry yields a 1:1 or poor lever ratio. Measure the finger contact point on the trigger to the pivot and then measure the pivot to the sear bar contact point on the trigger bar. I have encountered this problem mainly w/ pistols that were built by friends seeing I don't build them.....Fred

 

[Homesteader]

Thank you, Gentlemen, for all your replies. I plan to dig into the ole thing this weekend, and you've given me the info I need to at least begin to figure the problem. Man, I'm glad I stumbled onto this forum! You are the motherlode of info we should all have! :hatsoff: