TRU-OIL problem

[labrat]

Stripped Pedersoli walnut stock and stained it. I let it dry completely , 2 days, and I applied the tru-oil as directed. Looks real good but it didn't dry completely after a day in the sun. Still a little tacky but I lightly steel wool it and apply another light coat and let it dry in the warm weather. Still a little tacky after 2 days of drying. Again I steel wool it and apply another light coat. manure !#% I do it a couple more times but absolutely will not completely dry even after 3 days. I've tried it on windy warm days as well as under the air conditioner. Any ideas? I will call the manufacture & hopefully get some answers. date code 241156..........labrat

 

[ArmorerRoy]

Try a heat gun

 

[wiscoaster]

I think your problem is you're putting on coats that are way too thick. Coats should be applied very, very thinly with your fingers and rub in and smooth out (you can feel it getting "thick" when it's been applied right and ready to be left alone). Then wait until all tackiness is gone before even attempting the next coat. At this point you've got multiple layers too thick to properly dry and cure and I'd suggest you go to work with your steel wool and get it all off, or at least at much as you can, then get all that steel wool dust off of there by brushing, air-blowing, tack-ragging and wiping down with solvent. Start all over again by first very lightly sanding, leaving the sanding dust on the stock (why? the dust mixes with the oil and helps fill the pores), then apply as I suggested, wait again, and then again lightly sand in between coats, just enought to dull the surface, 400 grit ought to work fine, each time leaving the sanding dust on. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL in between coats unless you take great care to get all the steel wool dust off.

Personally, I wouldn't use Tru-Oil anyway for a muzzleloader, as the final result is a shinier finish on the stock than I prefer for that type of firearm. I have, however used it obviously, or wouldn't have been able to recommend how to remdediate your project.

I refinished my Pedersoli, too, but didn't use Tru-Oil:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/yup-fixed-my-pedersoli.167978/

 

[wiscoaster]

Try a heat gun

Mmmmm .... I think by now it's past that point, sorry.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I’ve used Tru-oil for many stocks over fourth years and have no problems getting a dandy finish. It can be dull to shiny depending on how you apply it. My technique is to thin it with mineral spirits about half. Then apply very thin spreading with the palm of my hand very briefly to flatten it but not to the point of it getting tacky. In an average day it drys fast enough to apply two to three coats a day. If it gets to thick or shiny for the effect I want break it with Scotch Brite pads then tack cloth. A couple of examples,
IMG_0507 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
61F9779D-D402-456B-B8A1-93652CF5142E by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[labrat]

Thank You gentleman for your feedback. Very beautiful stock finishes you all have. I did apply the first to the last coat very thinly as I have been warned to do on this website. I would rub it in until it started getting sticky then stopped. I should have stopped and waited for it to completely dry regardless of the time it needed. The instructions said it should be dry in two hours. Each coat I let dry in the beautiful weather we have ,90's. But no luck. I think for now I will let it dry for whatever time is needed. I'm in no big hurry. If it doesn't dry in a week I'll start all over.............. Thank You moderator for correcting me.........labrat

 

[SDSmlf]

I haven’t used Tru-Oil in quite some time, but when I used it, my application method was similar to what others mentioned. Dipped one or two fingers into the bottle of the stuff, then rub it into the wood until dry, repeating until the entire stock (or whatever) was covered. Remember it being dry to the touch when I stopped the rubbing. Then I let it cure overnight and repeated the process everyday or so for a few weeks. Only took a few minutes per coat. To knock down the gloss I would rub it back with a piece of sisal cloth (think course weave burlap) from some coffee bean bags I came into for another project that didn’t pan out.

In all honesty, from what you describe in your OP, if it were my project I would strip it back and start over. You will avoid a lot of frustration and wasted effort. Would also suggest working on a ‘practice’ piece of wood to develop a process that meets your expectations.

 

[kyron4]

Like Phil said cut with mineral spirts and rub in. I let it sit for 24 hours between coats.

 

[deerstalkert]

have used tru-oil for over 40 years. once or twice i got a bottle that would not cure. drove me batty the first time. the rifle was scheduled to go to Africa in a few months and I couldn't get it to cure. stripped it with acetone and got a new supply. as far as I know the rifle is still in Africa.
my process is the rubbed in finger tip load. rub until it starts squeaking. (almost). normal recoat is 3 hours. minimum coats for me is 6 and usually 12.