The suggestion to run a magnet over it after using steel wool is because the small particles of steel wool will rust in time. If you use brass wool then it won’t matter.
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Tru oil time question
- Thread starter ajfran3
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All this brings up the question about filling the pores. I haven't seen enough old original American walnut stocks to know if they bothered to fill the pores or not. My guess is that they didn't because it took too much time. I think pore filling is a more modern idea. From what I've seen of European and British stocks filling the pores is not important. One of the big advantages of maple and cherry is that the pores are small and easily filled.
Well maybe I just have to much time on my hands.but I keep about 6 hours min between coats buff out every other. Depending on the desired out come, more glossy I want it I go up to 1000 grit paper for super shiny or stay at 320 for a more matte finish. But I let it set for at least 2 days, in the window during the summer and over the heat register in the winter. It really hardens well then apply a good wax finish
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I use tru-oil with turpentine, 75/25, 2-3 hours dry time, 24-32 cure time.
Can Tru oil get to old to use…like to thick or something like that…?
the trick I fo
, not mine I read it somewhere, is to set the unused bottle upside down after opened. It lasts nearly forever
Don't remove the tin foil seal, put a pin hole in it and store your bottle upside down, the tru-oil will last for at least a year without gumming up this way. You can get all the finish you need for an application out of the pin hole easily.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
For the $6 or $7 cost I get a fresh bottle if there is any noticeable thicking. Using the pin hole in the foil trick works very well for many months. Both of these have a fairly well filled pores by sanding in the finish then wiping it off twice. The top few coats gives the shine. It only takes a bit more time and is durable, both of these have hunted.
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The Appalachian
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If you remove the foil seal it will skin over and begin hardening from the top down. The transition between the hardened and the liquid will be like wetted sugar. It's a mess when that starts happening and pretty much un-usable. A pin hole in the foil is really the best way to keep the stuff for a while. If your bottle is years old, just toss it and buy a new one.
For the $6 or $7 cost I get a fresh bottle if there is any noticeable thicking. Using the pin hole in the foil trick works very well for many months. Both of these have a fairly well filled pores by sanding in the finish then wiping it off twice. The top few coats gives the shine. It only takes a bit more time and is durable, both of these have hunted.
Yup!
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You have to clean the caps out with each use to keep the oil from thickening. I just run it under a hot water faucet. By cleaning it, the cap’s seal inside will not be infringed by drying or dried oil. You can also put a small piece of tinfoil in the cap for a tighter seal.
Lots of great stuff here. A quick read is a good reminder of past projects. I have used Tru oil but never unless cut with turpentine. Same with boiled linseed oil. near 1 to 1. And do not rush. If a coat starts to show build up rub the next coat in with 0000 or 3m equiv. And do not rush. When things are uniform and dry you can wait a while And do not rush. Them a real good wax job. And do not rush. The wax can be Min wax or even a good paste wax. And do not rush. Please note.... there is a hidden message that will help you complete a great project.
Good because that’s exactly the way I have it stored…thanks
I've been building over 50 years. Tru Oil is easy and pretty fast & looks great. However it does not wear well. I have had great results using Stock Finish at Brownells. Much harder and goes on at least as efficiently as Tru Oil. Get some!
Jim Irwin
Try some Japan Drier in your finishes. All will dry more quickly.
aussie pete
40 Cal
I wait at least a week before assembly, to set the true oil up for hardness. A lot of work goes into a good true oiled stock, and I found out many years ago that it can be undone through eagerness. If your conditions are humid, I would wait even longer. I do quite a few stocks for mates, and being in the North Queensland tropics, I don't even consider doing a stock in the wet season anymore. Patience. It'll reward you.
Just a hint, if you don't like the real shiny finish ( I don't), let the stock lay up to harden for two weeks, then cut it back to a dull classic sheen with Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and conditioner. This is a liquid medium that has a fine cutting agent in suspension - go lightly and rub back to an old-world finish.
Pete
There are numerous videos on you tube on Tru Oil. I usually go up to 15 coats and rub out with rottenstone at the end. Smooth as a baby's behind.
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