Truth or Fiction?

[Mulebrain]

 

[Old Hawkeye]

A Pyrodex volume amount weighs different than the same volume amount of black powder. So if Pyrodex is lighter for a given volume you would get more shots per pound if you "measure" the same volume per shot as you do for BP. Still couldn't get me to use it!

 

[Frontier's]

true, its 100+ FPS faster than goex. Thats an old can too, so who knows what it will shoot like.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Pyrodex has more volume per lb than black powder and is intended to be shot in equal volume as black. So it would give more shots than black per lb.

 

[Whitworth]

true, its 100+ FPS faster than goex. Thats an old can too, so who knows what it will shoot like.

Last year my brother finished off some Pyrodex he purchased in the early 80's, it was in a cardboard can, shot OK.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

According to a chart I had years ago, 70gr of 2f had a pyrodex equivalent of 64gr. If that is an indicator, one should get more shots per can.

 

[Brokenbear]

Same deal with Triple Seven except FOR ME it cleans up just like unmentionables (non corrosive)
Triple Seven delivers more velocity than Pyrodex which delivers more velocity than Black
In a 1860 Colt Army .44 in a very scientific test of water jugs and pine boards (very much a laboratory test..) ..by volume 22/23 grains( W/ round ball) of Triple Seven pretty much gives what 25 grains by volume of black delivers

Bear

 

[pmccoywss]

Watch out for "weasel words". "UP TO 30% more" would be true even if only one more shot per pound was achieved.

 

[SamTex1949]

"up to 30% more" is like also sayin "you will get no more then 30%" for a reverse argument, wording is everything

 

[toot]

Same deal with Triple Seven except FOR ME it cleans up just like unmentionables (non corrosive)
Triple Seven delivers more velocity than Pyrodex which delivers more velocity than Black
In a 1860 Colt Army .44 in a very scientific test of water jugs and pine boards (very much a laboratory test..) ..by volume 22/23 grains( W/ round ball) of Triple Seven pretty much gives what 25 grains by volume of black delivers

Bear

as we all know- t-7, is 15% more powerful than regular, BP. so load accordingly.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Watch out for "weasel words". "UP TO 30% more" would be true even if only one more shot per pound was achieved.

Love that phrase "weasel words". Pyrodex also claims to not corrode like black powder. Not incorrect. But it does corrode in a manner different than real black.

 

[mooman76]

Love that phrase "weasel words". Pyrodex also claims to not corrode like black powder. Not incorrect. But it does corrode in a manner different than real black.

I believe they dropped that claim some time ago.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Some years back, I tried Pyrodex pellets. At 50 yards, ALL the shots were vertically in line with the bull, but ranged from 8" low to 10" high.
They were listed as "50 grain" pellets. When I got home, I weighed all the pellets in a new box - they ran from 46 gr to 58 gr - quite a spread.
They also are hard to properly clean. Really had to scrub to get all the residue out of the barrel. A fellow on another forum pertaining to original and replica BP rifles is a chemist, and declared that the imitation BP powders produced "perchlorates", which supposedly will lead to rust very quickly.
Currently I use ONLY BP in my firearms. Easy to clean well with just cold water, sometimes a drop of Dawn detergent. And no "flash rust" as you sometimes get with boiling hot water. Takes less than 5 min to clean, then a shot of WD-40 or RIG, put upside down on a paper towel overnight, then patch out the barrel, then run an oiled patch - good for years of shelf life after that.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I often notice references to cold water or either boiling water for cleaning a muzzleloader. I like warm water so that I'm able to keep my hand hanging onto the barrel as I tend slop a little while pouring it down the barrel. It does seem to make the outside dry better as it warmed it up slightly, I don't know about the rust problem as I flushed the barrel with methanol alcohol when I get done and Then a blast of air From my compressor. A couple of dry patches before the alcohol, and a light coating of kerosene after I'm done. Seems to work okay, the warm water dries the outside around the sights and I don't seem to find any rust. The next day I run a couple of kerosene patches down and If they come out plum clean, that's the end of it. I don't go shooting unless I know I have time to clean. It probably won't be that hour, but it will be before I go to bed. Everything I own in muzzleloaders are Hawkins design. If they were long rifle design I would use a funnel with a tube on the other end but it would still be warm water. We all change what we've been doing I'm sure, over a period of years, as my first years of shooting were pyrodex and the bore coating was wonder lube, but the major cleaning process was the same as now and the rifle was cleaned before bedtime. I'm sure that contributed to the lack of rust.
Squint