Trying to get started

[Ppanepinto]

Ok, I’m getting ready to jump in. I’ve got two quotes on kits from Sitting Fox and T.V.M (Tennessee Valley Muzzleloaders), and have chosen the T.V.M. I would like to know what I will need to finish the kit. This will be only my first, for I still have the North Star West Officer’s musket I need to get up and running. Here is a list of some of the things I have on order as far as tools and book/videos, did I miss anything or are there some simple things that make things easier that I should add to the list of things?

Here we go, this is what I have or have on order:

Dremel
Solingen 8 piece chisel set
Sandpaper in the appropriate grits
Beginning Carving by Jack Brooks
Inletting Black
A larger vise
Art of Building the Pennsylvania Long rifle by Dixon, Ehrig, and Miller
Building Muzzle-Loaders with rifle maker James Turpin
Rifles of Colonial America Volume 2, by Dr. George Shumway
Browning Reagent & Degreaser, by Laurel Mountain Forge
Firearms Blueing & Browning by R. H. Angler
A downloaded and saved copy of Mike Brooks Tutorial

These are the things I know I need help on:
Rasps: which ones should I get?
Anything I may have missed.

Like I said, this will be my first build, and I will be documenting every step as a learning process. I’m just trying to get a good footing.

 

[ol vern]

A sharp #2 pencil, because if you can't lay it out on paper
you can't do it.

 

[Ppanepinto]

I have a box of those waiting to go.

 

[mikemeteor]

files.
and more files.
you can't get too many sizes, shapes, and cuts if you're going to stay at this.
i'm sure some will disagree. :grin:

Stanley cabinetmakers rasps.
#49 and then #50 if you can swing it.

I've been reaching for this more and more often lately: Pferd cabinet file .
Half-way between a rasp and a metal file - good smoother prior to scraping.

Scrapers too, and/or the wisdom to make them and keep the curl in good working order.
/mm

 

[aprayinbear]

A suggestion about files,

Good files are very expensive and if you have the cash no problem (a good cabinetmakers rasp could easily run you $50 more or less). When you add on an assortment of metal files, round files, etc, you could be well over $200.

But.... if you have a tight budget, you might consider one of the cheap file sets that you purchase from Harbor Freight or any of the discount tool stores. These are usually made in China, but they work (at least in the short term.) You can probably get all you need for $20 - $30 bucks.

Just My 2 cents! :thumbsup:

 

[armymedic.2]

i used swif 95 solder paste and a torch for underlugs and sight, worked great. (thanks guys for all the sugestions!)

8-32 tap

countersink bit

grinder if you dont have one (taking sprue off casting and lugs off trigger guard (if screwing and not pinning.

make a jig like mike brooks has for drill press.......life saver

thats it off top of my head, but i just finished barrel lock and trigger install (about 15-20 hours in) , so i have lots more to do yet.

good luck, have fun!

 

[mikemeteor]

you might consider one of the cheap file sets that you purchase from Harbor Freight or any of the discount tool stores. These are usually made in China, but they work (at least in the short term.) You can probably get all you need for $20 - $30 bucks.

no offense intended, but my experience has been $5 spent on a cheap file is $5 down the toilet.
Felt like I was wearing away the material right off the get-go, as opposed to cutting it.
Couple years ago, in a pinch, I went to the big orange DIY box store and get one of their Made in China store brand files - rhymes with "Snowballed" - it made me sad. :shake: Right in the trash.

But buying good new ones does add up, I agree.
My solution has been auctions.
I'll bet I have 30-40 files on my bench, and all but 6 or 8 came from auctions.
For every 10 you get in a $5 box lot, 2 or 3 might be keepers.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Try some flea markets and garage sales for files. It's not hard to see if they're sharp or not. Any shine on the cutting side, and put it back.

 

Another recommendation is to cut the cord off the Dremel, and throw it away. It will cause you more problems than any time you might think it will save. The only power tool really needed might be a drill or drill press. Gun building is a hand tool business. The Dremel will only teach you how to link expletives together.

Bill

 

[Dane]

Bill, I was just going to write the same thing.

Throw that thing away!!!!

 

[mikemeteor]

Well I guess I'd meet you guys half-way on the Dremel.
With a cut-off disc, I find it most handy for cutting pins to length, cutting off casting gates, shortening pipe lugs, shortening trigger bars, etc.
I also sometimes use the buffing wheels on smaller metal parts.

But no, as you guys suggest, the Dremel does not go near the stockwood.
The metal work happens off the rifle and on another workbench.

 

[Zonie]

Probably the most used tool you can buy is the large handled Exacto Knife for the #2 blades.

You won't need any blade shape except for the pointed ones and you'll need a lot of those.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about
http://www.amazon.com/HOBBY-EXACTO-KNIFE-BLADES-13-PIECE/dp/B001CWHHW4

Probably the next tool that you will find dozens of uses for is a 6" dial caliper that measures in thousandths of an inch.
These measure outside, inside and depth and they are excellent for laying out precision work.

The digital ones are OK but usually the battery dies just when you want to measure something.
The mechanical dial type are better and they don't quit.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153...1&sid=ISx20070515x00001a&prop17=dial calipers

 

[Ppanepinto]

This is all a major help to me, Thank you all :grin: