Tung oil on black walnut question

[Larry (Omaha)]

I am using Sutherland Wells tung oil on a black walnut underhammer build. I have used this fine product for two other rifles and it is almost dummy proof for good results. My two previous builds were curly maple. I used around 7 coats of tung oil. This black walnut has 9 or 10 coats of full strength oil on it, and the wood pores have not filled yet. Since I have never used BW before, I would like to hear some forum thoughts.
Thanks
Larry

 

[pwbsmokey]

When I finished a walnut stock I put several thin coats of finish on, and sanded each coat off with 000 steel wool, leaving finish in the pores. When the pores were filled I put several top coats on.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Larry,
The picture below shows you what to do. Put oil on the stock applying it with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. Sand the finish and wood to build up a slurry of oil and saw dust

Let that slurry dry as a crust on the wood and then sand it off smooth. That will fill the open pores of walnut. After that, one maybe 2 coats of finish will be all you need.

dave

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

When I finished a walnut stock I put several thin coats of finish on, and sanded each coat off with 000 steel wool, leaving finish in the pores. When the pores were filled I put several top coats on.

Thanks, but steel wool never works for me, cuz in using, it fragments and goes into the wood. Finish in the pores is good, but not steel wool.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hi Larry,
The picture below shows you what to do. Put oil on the stock applying it with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. Sand the finish and wood to build up a slurry of oil and saw dust


Let that slurry dry as a crust on the wood and then sand it off smooth. That will fill the open pores of walnut. After that, one maybe 2 coats of finish will be all you need.

dave

Dave,
Your idea is so simple, but dummy me had no idea that was what to do. Thanks for your help.
Larry

 

[Robby]

Were you sanding between coats? If not you are building the surface and pores almost equally. 9-10 coat's and sanding between applications it should have been evened up 3-4 coats ago.
Robby

 

[martin9]

Yep, what Dave said...the only good way I know to seal walnut. I like to use black wet/dry sandpaper so some of the black highlights the grain as it fills.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Were you sanding between coats? If not you are building the surface and pores almost equally. 9-10 coat's and sanding between applications it should have been evened up 3-4 coats ago.
Robby

I did sand between coats, but not every one. I thought is should have filled 3-4 coats ago too, that is why I posted. Two or 3 coats did not get a pre sand. I did not have a no pore fill issue with curly maple. I am sure my CM took more coats compared to using sawdust slurry. Looking back, I most likely did not sand deep enough between coats. I went very light, trying not to get scratch marks in the wood.
Thanks

 

[Wolfman0125]

If you are refinishing a stock I recommend soaking the wood then apply a wet towel over it then using an iron to steam out the dents and pits versus filling them. As long as the grain fibers are unbroken, the dents will rise to the surface and preserve the natural grain of the wood. As far as finish I like Birchwood Casey Tru-oil as it will not yellow. It makes a shiny finish. For a satin finish just lightly sand with fine steel wool to dull it down.

 

[user 34300]

"Looking back, I most likely did not sand deep enough between coats. I went very light, trying not to get scratch marks in the wood."

I normally dilute the finish to 50% strength with mineral spirits. Then use that liquid to wet sand the stock with 320 wet dry paper. The sawdust slurry will fill the pores. Since you have a lot of finish already, use mineral spirits to wet sand down the wood. Wipe off the sloppy excess and let it dry. IT will be completely filled. Proceed with diluted finish applied sparingly with a a clean cloth.