• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

TVM kit

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mike garner

40 Cal.
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Messages
177
Reaction score
0
TVM has just shipped my early Virginia rifle kit, it is not the builders kit. i will have it in a couple of days. dose anyone know how much wood shaping and wood in letting is necessary? they are recommended for intermediate builders.
 
Having built a couple of these kits, I can tell you that there is a lot of wood to take off to make them look right. You can throw one together in a week with very minimal shaping, and it will look like a rifle, but ideally it will take a month (for a simple gun) of careful work to get your rifle looking like it should.
 
Mountain Dewd said:
Having built a couple of these kits, I can tell you that there is a lot of wood to take off to make them look right. You can throw one together in a week with very minimal shaping, and it will look like a rifle, but ideally it will take a month (for a simple gun) of careful work to get your rifle looking like it should.

+1

People are often overjoyed by the prospects of a "kit" once received it's a wakeup at how much work is involved.

Take your time as dewd mentioned, when your patience is wearing thin stop and walk away for awhile... Come back with a fresh mind and willingness to work and you will be rewarded for the efforts once completed. :hatsoff:
 
Mountain Dewd is correct . . as I am building a late lancaster from TVM now.

One thing that is very good about TVM for the price, is that they get the essentials right. They line up the lock, touch hole, trigger and barrel. Barrel & Tang are inlet, touch hole lined up and trigger inlet and set . . so the critical points of shooting the rifle are done there, and done well. Those things that must line up, line up. In that sense, most everything else is aesthetics . . (which are important too.)

The lock is about 98% inlet too. In fact on mine, being my first build I was scared of the delicate mortise cuts for the lock and so rather than risk messing up the wood with a file or chisel, I took sand paper and sanded down the edges of the Siler Lock plate until it fit into the mortise. It took quite a while and might not have been kosher, but the wood to metal fit in that lock area is good with no screw ups.

I 've spent about 100 hours on mine, rough guess so far and I am not done . . . I am slow and nervous . . . but my life saver has been this forum and finding a guy who has built several rifles in my town to spend time with and to coach me. He does things the right way. . that might not have been the way I would have suspected, to my detriment. . .some things are a bit counter intuitive until you see how its done by a builder. I'd highly recommend the book The Gunsmith of Greenville County . . . Youtube can be a good resource too.

You'll know how to use a chisel before this is all over . . . may not love them . ( I still hate chisels ) . . . but its the #1 tool you'll use, sorry to say. . . along with it comes cheap candles for blackening parts to inlet with those dang chisels.
 
Lipstick!!! Lol, along with candles I often have a box of cheap red lipstick...

Personally I take forever to build! For me the process is enjoyable and fulfilling. Once completed, I'm always looking forward to the next "building high" hehe.

An hour here, an hour there... time we'll spent to do things right IMO. :)
 
The thing to remember with all of these "kits" stocks is, they leave a lot of extra wood on them so there will be material for creating the gun you want to build.
They also left material for Sam and Fred's guns.

The extra material for the gun Sam or Fred wants to build needs to be removed if it doesn't match what you want to end up with.

To do things right, you really need a couple of good photos of the gun you want to make.

With photos on hand it's pretty easy to see areas where you will say, "Whoa. THAT doesn't look right!"
Then, you can start your whittling it down to your liking.
 
yea i figgered so good photos would help. 3 years ago i bought a jaeger kit from track of the wolf and the barrel and tang was not in letted. i sent it to James frost in Ohio to build in the white, i did the rest. if this one has the barrel and tang done i am confident i can do the rest. thanks for all the replies.
 
well i got got my kit yesterday and it looks good! a whole lot better than TOW kit. the wood i would say is 90% shaped. the barrel is 100% the lock about 90% but i have a rookie question and it may seem like a dumb one, but how dose the nose cap fit? it is shaped octagonal on the front flat of it and is round underneath like the barrel channel. dose it snap on the end of the barrel and you have to cut wood out of the channel so it lays in the channel? i cannot find a picture to show me.
 
i think i see how it goes. looks like it suppose to snap int place on the barrel and then you cut the wood back and shape the for end of the wood to the cap. is that correct? would it be historically correct to not use the nose cap on this style of rife or did all early Virginia rifles use a nose cap?
 
It sounds like you don't have a builders reference book. I would recommend that before you start to pick one up and read it through. They will answer a lot of your questions like how to install the nose cap. I have both Chuck Dixons "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" and Peter Alexander's "The Gunsmith of Greenville County". Either book will serve you well and will help you in your build.
 
ehoff said:
It sounds like you don't have a builders reference book. I would recommend that before you start to pick one up and read it through. They will answer a lot of your questions like how to install the nose cap. I have both Chuck Dixons "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" and Peter Alexander's "The Gunsmith of Greenville County". Either book will serve you well and will help you in your build.

ehoff is right - you should have a book. I bought The Gunsmith of Grenville County several years ago, and the information in the book has saved me much more than the purchase price in parts I didn't ruin because I knew how things were supposed to go together, and in what order, and why this was.

(you should be aware that this will not be your only build - once you've used a tool of your own making, you'll want to build another one - it's the way we are: it is in our DNA or something)

good luck with your project :grin:
 
Back
Top