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Uberti 2nd model Dragoon.

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ernbar

45 Cal.
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Got in my long awaited 2nd model Uberti Dragoon. The good; well made, nice finish, beautiful wood gips, very accurate, smooth action.

The bad; had a spill that stained the right side of the barrel above the wedge that only came off with light polishing with 0000 steel wool and oil, the nipples were on EXTREMELY tight, all screws were loose one up to one full turn, barrel assembly EXTREMELY tight fitting to the frame needing the use of the loading lever to pop it out of the locating pins.

The nipples were on so tight that I had to use two 7/16” big drill bits inserted in the chambers and mounted on my big vise as a jig. Have a cheap CVA nipple wrench that fit on these cones and used vise grips to clamp on the CVA wrench and used alot of force to finally get them loose. I was very surprised that the wrench actually worked and only had a very light mark where the vise grips gripped the wrench otherwise it looks brand new.

It appears that there are lots of complaints about the tight fitting barrel as I read several on other sites. Some mentioned lightly polishing the locating pins and the two holes for a smoother transition. I have to place the handle of a plastic toothbrush on the cylinder face then use the loading lever to lightly tap it to loosen the barrel. Seems Uberti has a problem with quality control. None of my Piettas had such problems and are less expensive.

Any suggestions on how to work out the tightness that seems to be a little less evident after shooting it and taking the barrel off and on several times?

This monster is very accurate specially at long distances. I hit the metal plate at 75 yards 10 out of 12 rounds with 40 grains of Schuetzen powder and .454 Hornady round ball. At 25 yards was more accurate with 35 grains holding a 2”-3” group. Happy to report that the loading lever did not drop at all but only loaded up to 40 grains so it may drop with higher loads. Will check on that next trip to the range.

Looks massive but compared to the 58 Remington both look similar in size.
The 1851 Navy and 1860 Army both look small compared to the Dragoon.
 
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It will break in after a few range sessions and will come apart easily.

I'm sure it has the dreaded Short Arbor like mine do.
I did notice a very slight cylinder to barrel gap but figured it to be normal. Saw a Youtube piece where a small split washer was used to tighten the fit.
 
Got in my long awaited 2nd model Uberti Dragoon. The good; well made, nice finish, beautiful wood gips, very accurate, smooth action.

The bad; had a spill that stained the right side of the barrel above the wedge that only came off with light polishing with 0000 steel wool and oil, the nipples were on EXTREMELY tight, all screws were loose one up to one full turn, barrel assembly EXTREMELY tight fitthing to the frame needing the use of the loading lever to pop it out of the locating pins.

The nipples were on so tight that I had to use two 7/16” big drill bits inserted in the chambers and mounted on my big vise as a jig. Have a cheap CVA nipple wrench that fit on these cones and used vise grips to clamp on the CVA wrench and used alot of force to finally get them loose. I was very surprised that the wrench actually worked and only had a very light mark where the vise grips gripped the wrench otherwise it looks brand new.

It appears that there are lots of complaints about the tight fitting barrel as I read several on other sites. Some mentioned lightly polishing the locating pins and the two holes for a smoother transition. I have to place the hanle of a plastic toothbrush on the cylinder face then use the loading lever to lightly tap it to loosen the barrel. Seems Uberti has a problem with quality control. None of my Piettas had such problems and are less expensive.

Any suggestions on how to work out the tightness that seems to be a little less evident after shooting it and taking the barrel off and on several times?

This monster is very accurate specially at long distances. I hit the metal plate at 75 yards 10 out of 12 rounds with 40 grains of Schuetzen powder and .454 Hornady round ball. At 25 yards was more accurate with 35 grains holding a 2”-3” group. Happy to report that the loading lever did not drop at all but only loaded up to 40 grains so it may drop with higher loads. Will check on that next trip to the range.

Looks massive but compared to the 58 Remington both look similar in size.
The 1851 Navy and 1860 Army both look small compared to the Dragoon.
Interesting comments, thank you. I once got cheap in a trade a Walker; couldn't wait to unload it, almost had to beg someone to take it; Way too large! Always thought the Dragoons were cool. It pays to take things apart and check out every detail.
 
Every Uberti you buy is guaranteed to have at least one thing wrong with it. I just bought a 3rd Model Dragoon, and the arbor is fine and the tight barrel is no big deal. Unfortunately however the frame itself was dropped on the shop floor at Uberti, and they went ahead and assembled it with a noticeably peened corner. Of course I bought it from an online dealer that doesn't accept returns so I'm stuck with it. Fortunately it shoots pretty well so I'm learning to ignore it. This is my 9th Uberti firearm, and I can say that every single one came with a small cosmetic or fitting defect of some sort. I still love 'em though.
 
Every Uberti you buy is guaranteed to have at least one thing wrong with it. I just bought a 3rd Model Dragoon, and the arbor is fine and the tight barrel is no big deal. Unfortunately however the frame itself was dropped on the shop floor at Uberti, and they went ahead and assembled it with a noticeably peened corner. Of course I bought it from an online dealer that doesn't accept returns so I'm stuck with it. Fortunately it shoots pretty well so I'm learning to ignore it. This is my 9th Uberti firearm, and I can say that every single one came with a small cosmetic or fitting defect of some sort. I still love 'em though.
Every Uberti (and all previous makes including Colt 2nd gens) has a short arbor. Pietta is the only manufacturer that has corrected this.

Mike
 
And there's so many molds to play with!

3rd Model Bullets.jpg
 
Every Uberti you buy is guaranteed to have at least one thing wrong with it. I just bought a 3rd Model Dragoon, and the arbor is fine and the tight barrel is no big deal. Unfortunately however the frame itself was dropped on the shop floor at Uberti, and they went ahead and assembled it with a noticeably peened corner. Of course I bought it from an online dealer that doesn't accept returns so I'm stuck with it. Fortunately it shoots pretty well so I'm learning to ignore it. This is my 9th Uberti firearm, and I can say that every single one came with a small cosmetic or fitting defect of some sort. I still love 'em though.

Uberti is supposed to be tops in quality and higher priced than Pietta but looks like Pietta has better quality control with their products. From my 3 Piettas that I own, only the 1860 Army needed some internal polishing to get rid of some burs but otherwise they work and look great. This Uberti also shoots very well and is very accurate but I'm not impressed with the issues I had, minor they may be but should had been caught at the factory.

In your case regarding the damaged finish done at the factory at least Midway will exchange it for you with a special form dowloaded from their website. I was able to remove the blemish from the barrel otherwise it was going back to Midway. The rep told me I had to pay the return shipping but upon the exchange I would be issued a credit for the shipping.
 
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Every Uberti (and all previous makes including Colt 2nd gens) has a short arbor. Pietta is the only manufacturer that has corrected this.

Mike

I must be lucky then, as both of my 1851s and my Dragoon have an even cylinder gap with no dragging when assembled. At least they have that much going for them. I think when my Dragoon was made the assembler called the shop manager over to come look at it. "Hey Tony, look at 'dis. 'Dis one is perfect and without any flaws!" So the shop manager threw my frame on the ground and said "Oh yeah? Dat'll fix 'dat!".
 
Nope, they're short. You're just "wanting" them to be correct. Drop a small washer in the arbor hole and reassemble. You can because the arbor is short. I hear it all the the time lol!! "Mines right". The wedge isn't the deciding factor of the endshake, it's the arbor.
One guy on another forum swore up and down his 2nd Gen Colt was "right"!!! Only to find out it was just like all the rest . . .

Mike
 
Every Uberti you buy is guaranteed to have at least one thing wrong with it. I just bought a 3rd Model Dragoon, and the arbor is fine and the tight barrel is no big deal. Unfortunately however the frame itself was dropped on the shop floor at Uberti, and they went ahead and assembled it with a noticeably peened corner. Of course I bought it from an online dealer that doesn't accept returns so I'm stuck with it. Fortunately it shoots pretty well so I'm learning to ignore it. This is my 9th Uberti firearm, and I can say that every single one came with a small cosmetic or fitting defect of some sort. I still love 'em though.
This is true. The 3rd model I have has one cylinder that is tighter than the others. Otherwise good to go, easy enough fix I guess. But, it would appear that there is always something that is amiss with their guns.

RM
 
Every Uberti (and all previous makes including Colt 2nd gens) has a short arbor. Pietta is the only manufacturer that has corrected this.

Mike
I thought Euroarms and Centaures had correctly seated arbors, as well?
By the way mike, have you ever tried to use one of the appropriate green loctites, one with expansion for a slip fit, to hold your arbor shim in place in the bore? And have you ever used solid stock to shim your arbor bore, so as to make a cone that will properly support the arbor and prevent that gap at the back that a washer leaves?
 
I thought Euroarms and Centaures had correctly seated arbors, as well?
By the way mike, have you ever tried to use one of the appropriate green loctites, one with expansion for a slip fit, to hold your arbor shim in place in the bore? And have you ever used solid stock to shim your arbor bore, so as to make a cone that will properly support the arbor and prevent that gap at the back that a washer leaves?

Hey Desperado, a single, stainless, solid spacer is exactly what I use. It is rounded on the back side so that it "nests" (and is "self leveling") and fits the diameter perfectly.

And no, all the makers I've had the "pleasure" to tune, only 1st gen Colts and late model Pietta's have correct length arbors.

Mike
 
Hey Desperado, a single, stainless, solid spacer is exactly what I use. It is rounded on the back side so that it "nests" (and is "self leveling") and fits the diameter perfectly.

And no, all the makers I've had the "pleasure" to tune, only 1st gen Colts and late model Pietta's have correct length arbors.

Mike
Howdy Mike—do you mfg those spacers from scratch? And also do you bother to secure it with a binder like jb weld?
Thanks!
 
Howdy Mike—do you mfg those spacers from scratch? And also do you bother to secure it with a binder like jb weld?
Thanks!

Yessir I do. I make them from #14 sheet metal screws for Dragoons/Walkers and #12 sheet metal screws for Army's/Navy's.

You cut the threaded shaft off leaving the head for use as the spacer. Using a Philips head bit in a drill motor and a bench belt sander, I sand the "flat" side down checking often for "clearance". When the endshake measures around. 005" with the wedge driven in (it will feel solid) I stop and "anchor" ( glue/ affix) the spacer with JB.
I also start a hole on both sides right where the transition starts for the "cone" of the bottom of the arbor hole ( accessed through the wedge slot in the barrel assy.) as an anchor for the install.
Then, I dress the end of the arbor down to get my .0025" - .003" endshake (wedge driven in). You'll have that clearance from then on!

* If you do it this way, you'll actually open the width of the slot slightly. To compensate for this, I install a 1/4" X 28 smooth set screw in the end of the arbor that reaches into the wedge slot. This will be the forward bearing surface for the wedge instead of the actual slot in the arbor ( NOT an adjustable arbor mechanism!!!!) It should NEVER extend past the end of the arbor!!!! (It will interfere with the spacer you just installed!!)). This WILL allow an adjustable WEDGE DEPTH positioning mechanism!

** If you don't want the above setup, you can keep dressing the spacer itself until you get to your endshake spec.

Mike
 
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I bought a 2003 Cimarron/Uberti 1st model Dragoon at a gun show this past spring. The trigger guard was wrong, i.e. round not square, and aside from the short arbor that was all that was wrong with it. I assume that the quality has something to do with it being sold by Cimarron. I got a correct trigger guard from DGW ($19.95) that fit perfectly. I took care of the short arbor problem (endshake?) with brass washers and a little JB weld. It is now a very nice gun.
 
Every Uberti you buy is guaranteed to have at least one thing wrong with it. I just bought a 3rd Model Dragoon, and the arbor is fine and the tight barrel is no big deal. Unfortunately however the frame itself was dropped on the shop floor at Uberti, and they went ahead and assembled it with a noticeably peened corner. Of course I bought it from an online dealer that doesn't accept returns so I'm stuck with it. Fortunately it shoots pretty well so I'm learning to ignore it. This is my 9th Uberti firearm, and I can say that every single one came with a small cosmetic or fitting defect of some sort. I still love 'em though.
Just think of it as "battle damage "
 

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