Uberti front sight soldering

[ernbar]

I was watching Mike Beliveau’s video on replacing the front sight on the 1860 Army pistol. I have followed his instructions and checked my dimensions to match the original sight but it will not stay secured when tugged on. He did not solder his so I have questions.
I have silver bearing solder at hand but need the propane cylinder but which color, red, blue or yellow? Please walk me thru the process securing the brass replacement front sight. Was reading about tinning so some solder is on the parts when heat is applied. Once the sight is tinned and staked in place, is heat applied to both the barrel and sight or just the sight?
Thought about using JB Weld or the permanent Loctite product also.

 

[pacanis]

I soldered a front heart sight on a fowler and used 60/40 and the regular blue bottle propane. No need for Mapp gas. But your silver solder might require it... that used to be used on refrigeration lines that had to hold up to a lot or pressure. Maybe it still is. I've been out of that biz for a while.
Tin both parts. Apply heat to joint. Use plenty of flux.

My fowler's sight hasn't fallen off yet

 

[ernbar]

Went back and dug up this stuff I bought a looong time ago as the price on one shows. The Oatley roll says silver which I didn’t even know I had.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I’ve done a couple and made the sight blade a few thousands thicker than the slot. Driven in they have stayed, but if you need to a spot of lock tight would be the cleanest way to add strength. Soldering may discolor your barrel.

 

[LT Joe]

I was watching Mike Beliveau’s video on replacing the front sight on the 1860 Army pistol. I have followed his instructions and checked my dimensions to match the original sight but it will not stay secured when tugged on. He did not solder his so I have questions.
I have silver bearing solder at hand but need the propane cylinder but which color, red, blue or yellow? Please walk me thru the process securing the brass replacement front sight. Was reading about tinning so some solder is on the parts when heat is applied. Once the sight is tinned and staked in place, is heat applied to both the barrel and sight or just the sight?
Thought about using JB Weld or the permanent Loctite product also.

I used JB Weld to attach a front sight on a Trade gun to make sure I did not affect the nice blue on the barrel. Worked well. Have not had any problems.

 

[pacanis]

Not to be the contraire...
But I've never had heat affect a barrel's finish that has been blued. And I have heated the heck out of some Italian guns trying to remove a stuck screw.

 

[ZUG]

If it were mine I would "dovetail" the sight in place. Make or buy a front sight and fit it to the dovetail.

 

[French Colonial]

If your going to solder it

https://www.amazon.com/Solder-SILVE...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Regular blue propane torch will work, will not hurt the finish, you can use a chisel or graver to scrape away any excess when done, something you can not do with high temperature silver solder.

But if your talented a dove tail works.

 

[ernbar]

Thanks for the suggestions to dovetail in a sight but I agree with Mike Beliveau’s comment about dovetailed sights not looking good on round barrels. They look fine on octagonal ones and my Uberti has a round one.

 

[Ed C.]

I replaced my front sight on my 1851 Navy. I made a post out of a brass screw. I drilled into the barrel and soldered it with low temp (about 400 F) 60/40 tin/lead solder. I have an oxy/ act. torch but used a very soft low temp flame. It will not hurt the finish and even thought I mistakenly drilled through the barrel it has held up for well over 100 rounds and is very accurate using POA.