Uberti pistol, new in box

[Bender]

This morning, I visited Texas Jacks in Frederickburg TX, where Cimarron is also. Looked at many uberti/cimarron revolvers. I was disappointed in what I thought were high prices... oh well. Wish I had a couple thousand to spend.

Looks like there is quite a markup from a stock uberti, to a 'cimarron' uberti. For me, I suppose, a stock uberti would be fine. Texas Jack's prices for stock ubertis seem great.

With the cost of gas these days, I might as well pay the $20 shipping if I buy something from there.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I only own regular Uberti's. I inspect the fit & finish in person, as well as how the cylinder turns/feels. I won't mail-order a revolver for those reasons.

I do my own Cimmaron check :wink: and just pay the lower price!

Dave

 

[Bender]

that's good advice. I don't know much about "feel" of BP revolvers though, since I never owned one or shot one.

My "high prices" comment was not really the store's fault. I have been browsing their website, and I had my sights on a 3rd dragoon at $279. When I got to the store, they were $369. It was because I was looking at stock ubertis on the website, and under the counter at the store, they were cimarrons. They look identical.

Round trip for me was about $16 in gas (134 miles), so it is still cheaper for me to go back with some money and actually play with these guns and ask questions, rather than pay shipping for an unknown quality item.

edit: and it's a scenic drive through the Texas Hill Country too... :grin:

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I don't know whether or not you own any other types of arms other than black powder, so I have to be careful when I use a frame of reference. You just mentioned that this purchase was going to be your first BP revolver. Or is it your very first wheelgun of any type? Reason that I ask is that I'm wondering if we can chat with a common frame of reference.

Revolvers have a certain way that the cylinder "fits" as it comes into battery aligning with the barrel. Sometimes new guns need to be shot-in a little to loosen-up some so that they don't "hang-up" when you pull back on the hammer. A little bit of grease goes a long way! And different areas of different makes & models require different kinds or types of lube for different locations. There is no one majic bullet so to speak. Take the 3rd Model Dragoon for instance. I like to use a synthetic grease that I apply liberally to the yoke as well as the inside of the cylinder where it meets the yoke. This really helps the big wheel turn! Less drag means easier turning and more shots fired before the need for routine "de-cruding" at the range. This stuff is called Masters, and is available through Dillon Precision. I apply this lube where ever metal to metal contact is made on a surface that has to move.

The cylinder stop is the little piece of metal that jams up into the little cut-out on the side of the outer cylinder wall where the battle scene is etched. This is the piece that causes those tiny drag marks on the cylinder wall. If a tiny burr is on the stop she'll hang-up and not go all the way down into the cut-out. Normal wear causes most of this to go away, leaving a lightning smooth cocking action as you pull back on the hammer.

Timing on the cylinder means that the cylinder is absolutely & correctly lined-up with the forcing cone on the barrel. A bore light will tell you this as well as attempting to twist the cylinder at full cock, checking for alignment and for slippage of the stop.

Bottom line is ask a person in the store that knows what he/she is selling! Examine the revolver together. If either of you find a fault, say something to the other. The salesman/owner of the store doesn't want to sell you a bad gun...he'd much rather send it back to the distributor for a replacement before he sells it to you-OR-sells it to someone mail-order and then has to invest both time & shipping money to make it right! It's just the simple economics of running a small business.

I hope that I've been helpful.

Dave

 

[Bender]

very helpful, thanks! Answering your other questions regarding "other revolvers"... yes, several. I've owned maybe 5 to 7 revolvers over the years.

My comments earlier were in terms of "bp revolvers". I thought they may have "their own" quality checks that might be different from modern revolvers. I'm familiar with the "alignment" of the cylinder/barrel and how to check.

When I had the 3rd dragoon in my hand this morning, and I cocked the hammer a few times, and let it down easy. I considered the cylinder movement to be "clunky and stiff". Nothing like a Colt Python that's for sure. I suppose because it was dry and unlubed, as you said. I didn't feel any front to back play in the cylinder. I thought the finish was fairly high quality, it looked very nice, didn't notice any machining marks or whatnot.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Uberti uses a "cosmoline" heavy type of grease to prevent rust in long-term storage. Most of the "clunkiness" is the result of this heavy lube congeiling on the metal-to-metal contact surfaces. Once you completely remove the heavy lube and switch to the slicker thin lube, you'll notice a marked improvement. Then the wear-in starts and you're "good-to-go"!

Dave