I recently bought an unfired Uberti Walker. Outwardly, it is in perfect condition and the fit/finish is exceptional. I tried to disassemble it for cleaning, but I can't get the barrel off the frame. I removed the wedge and tried to pull the barrel off, then I used the loading lever as a persuader (piece of wood between it and the cylinder) but no dice. The cylinder turns freely. I can't tell if the gun is bound up on the cylinder rod or the two alignment pins. Before I start beating it with a hammer, do you have any suggestions?
Uberti Walker disassembly
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I purchased one about 3 months ago and I had the same issue. I ended up using a rawhide mallet to help "persuade" the barrel to come away from the frame. The arbor is tight in the barrel I think Uberti has made the arbor longer to solve their short arbor critics complaints. That barrel is TIGHT in the barrel. I have no other suggestions for you - good luck.
Check the archies by searching, other posts have came up before about this problem. Here's the last one where I and others posted about the issue. I'd quote whole thread but not sure how to do. It can be found on page 4 of this section 'Handguns', a little past halfway down titled 'Uberti Dragoon Issue, Need Help' posted by BroomStick. Read thread and give suggestions a try. The remedy I posted worked like a charm. CC
Start beating it with a hammer, but use a hard rubber or wood mallet, obviously, of sufficient weight to knock that thing loose.
This the one you want?
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/uberti-dragoon-issue-need-help.177038/
Just copy the link from your browser address bar and paste right into the post text.
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With key removed I'd use your same safe technique of loading lever pressure against a pop cycle stick on the cylinder face while having a friend give the muzzle a sharp end on whack with a rawhide hammer or block of wood. The shock should break any dried grease lock on the arbor and impact straight end on the muzzle will hurt/bend nothing.
You could also try a bit of heat from a propane torch on the arbor well of the barrel assembly. Remove the grips and gradually heat while holding by the grip straps in your bare hand. You won't get it hot enough with a propane torch held in your bare hand to have any effect on the bluing or case colors.
What can happen on these open top revolvers is the wedge when driven in can force a bit of steel on the mortise edge of the barrel to fold over into the arbor slot and lock it up. That is why some barrel assemblies will not swing or even fully enter the arbor well unless lined up on the pins. They are out of round with the arbor well until the peened over mortise edge is cleaned up.
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I guess if your in a hurry you could always pull the key and shoot the barrel off ! Just kidding !
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You can also drop a stiff brass or aluminum rod down the bore, grasp the barrel and then whack the end of the rod. Hold the revolver over a folded towel to catch the grip and frame.
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I like that idea way better than shooting it off as long as one catches the frame and it doesn't do a one hopper off the concrete shop floor !
I thought of that, but then, if I can't get it apart to clean it, I may as well use the gun for a paperweight.
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Pull the grips and put her through a dish wash cycle. Re-lubing will be messy but you can shoot her loose perhaps and still remove and lube all the internal parts with the barrel on if it won't come loose. My guess is the heat and detergent from the dish washer will break a grease lock and it will come apart as it should.
Reminds me of getting the rear brake drum off an old Volvo. Sometimes a puller wouldn't do it, so you left the nut on loose and drove the car around the block. That would break it loose.
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The problem is at the point the barrel is about to contact the frame the arbor diameter increases slightly so the barrel can't go on any further. This was Uberti's half assed solution to the short arbor problem. The wedge when driven in forces the barrel onto this oversize diameter and it is stuck there and takes some force to remove the barrel. It keeps on being a problem until the arbor hole in the barrel gets wallowed out and then you are faced with the short arbor probem. This is a common problem with all of the newer Uberti open tops.
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My new Walker has three different diameters on the arbor.
1. arbor under cylinder .520.
2. arbor at end of cylinder .518.
3. arbor end is .499.
My arbor end fit steel plug is .092 thick.
Chamber mouths are .449.
Bore is .438.
Groove is .4532.
Pitch is 1-19, left hand.
Trigger pull with sear lift installed is 1.5 lbs with no creep.
Alignment on both axis is excellent with the max bore diameter plug gauge dropping to the bottom of all chambers.
Bolt drop could stand to be a bit earlier but that should change with a bit of use.
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FWIW my new Walker is still tight when it comes to removing the barrel. A bit of pressure using the loading ram between chambers pops it loose.
I probably have 100 -150 rounds through it. Its not gotten any looser.
I probably have 100 -150 rounds through it. Its not gotten any looser.
What's your loads?
Probably averaging 800 fps. Some up around 1100, some down in the 600 fps area. 30-50 Volume of GOEX, Pyro RS and P and some 777 3F.
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