I had not heard that screws were not traditional although I never thought on it too much. Ever old half stock I’ve ever seen was soldered.
On some New England guns wood ribs were used does anyone know how those were put on?
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Under Rib Installation.
- Thread starter pooch156
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On some New England guns wood ribs were used does anyone know how those were put on?
user 34300
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Lugs and pins....
old ugly
40 Cal.
he may not know how to tin the parts before soldering, that is a different step that needs to be learned before starting.
ou
tom
A lot of the old soldered barrels and ribs were soldered with pure tin. Much stronger than lead or lead/tin solders..OLD DOG..
user 34300
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To tin the part, you pre coat it with solder. Applying solder and flux to a clean joint and hoping that it bonds when heated is a crap shoot.
To tin the parts, put some solder paste on the part. Make marble size piece of steel wool. Drag it through the flux. Heat the part just enough to melt a piece of solder you placed on it. Use the steel wool to rub the solder on the part. Grab the steel wool with needle nose pliers to avoid burning your fingers. Once you have some solder on the steel wool you can heat the part and rub the solder on it. It is simple to evenly coat the part with solder this way. If you have a resistant spot the steel wool will clean, flux and tin the area while you rub.
Once cooled and cleaned of acid flux, add rosin flux. Rosin flux can be bought from electronic supply places in liquid form. Rosin is not corrosive, acid flux is. OK, Then wire, wedge, clamp the rib to the barrel. By heating both parts you will get a perfect joint. Heat the larger part, in this case the barrel. the heart will transfer to that rib. Work you way down the barrel and add rosin core solder. There is no need to heat it all at once. The rosin core solder wire added will be sucked into the joint and fill it 100%.
It does not matter what kind of soft solder you use.
To tin the parts, put some solder paste on the part. Make marble size piece of steel wool. Drag it through the flux. Heat the part just enough to melt a piece of solder you placed on it. Use the steel wool to rub the solder on the part. Grab the steel wool with needle nose pliers to avoid burning your fingers. Once you have some solder on the steel wool you can heat the part and rub the solder on it. It is simple to evenly coat the part with solder this way. If you have a resistant spot the steel wool will clean, flux and tin the area while you rub.
Once cooled and cleaned of acid flux, add rosin flux. Rosin flux can be bought from electronic supply places in liquid form. Rosin is not corrosive, acid flux is. OK, Then wire, wedge, clamp the rib to the barrel. By heating both parts you will get a perfect joint. Heat the larger part, in this case the barrel. the heart will transfer to that rib. Work you way down the barrel and add rosin core solder. There is no need to heat it all at once. The rosin core solder wire added will be sucked into the joint and fill it 100%.
It does not matter what kind of soft solder you use.
old ugly
40 Cal.
I attached a solid rib onto a 1" across the flat .54 Hawken bbl w/ screws and if I would do another, it would be riveted on or.....cut some shallow {.035 deep} dovetails in the bbl and use tight fitting bbl lugs that would fit in slots in the rib for cross pinning. If a hickory under rib is used {reduces total gun weight}, bbl lugs and cross pinning would be the attachment method.
Riveting requires shallow flat bottom holes , rivets made from nails w/ a "V" groove filed in the dia close to one end. The rivet is placed into a close fitting hole, bottomed out and lightly clamped and bbl steel is staked into the groove. I've done this w/ bbl key staples made from nails and they've never loosened up. When the rivets hare been installed, the rib w/ slightly ctsk holes is placed on the bbl and the rivet is peened into the ctsk and filed smooth.
Using screws to attach a rib to a bbl entails an inordinate amount of time to first drill w/ an angled drill point and then a flat bottom pointed drill. I used both a drill stop sleeve and the spindle stop on my drillpress to avoid drilling too deep. Both a modified tipped tap w/ most of the taper ground off and a flat bottom tap must be used { for both I made my own}.
I imagine that Pecatonica does the holes in a vertical mill and uses a 2 fluted end mill which yields a flat bottomed hole and then does the tapping if that's what they do. Riveting would work also which eliminates the tapping.
Soldering is another popular method for attaching ribs to bbls.....Fred
Riveting requires shallow flat bottom holes , rivets made from nails w/ a "V" groove filed in the dia close to one end. The rivet is placed into a close fitting hole, bottomed out and lightly clamped and bbl steel is staked into the groove. I've done this w/ bbl key staples made from nails and they've never loosened up. When the rivets hare been installed, the rib w/ slightly ctsk holes is placed on the bbl and the rivet is peened into the ctsk and filed smooth.
Using screws to attach a rib to a bbl entails an inordinate amount of time to first drill w/ an angled drill point and then a flat bottom pointed drill. I used both a drill stop sleeve and the spindle stop on my drillpress to avoid drilling too deep. Both a modified tipped tap w/ most of the taper ground off and a flat bottom tap must be used { for both I made my own}.
I imagine that Pecatonica does the holes in a vertical mill and uses a 2 fluted end mill which yields a flat bottomed hole and then does the tapping if that's what they do. Riveting would work also which eliminates the tapping.
Soldering is another popular method for attaching ribs to bbls.....Fred
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