Underhammer actions

[Metalshaper]

Marlow,

I wasn't sure if you use the one I had spun,, or the one you had made?? That's why I left it for you to say

GMWW,

If your sure you'd like to see it done 'My Way' then I'll get something together when I can. right now I'm not even close to having one ready to pour.

I do need to finish putting the shotgun barrel on CJ's UH..which I had intended to have a somewhat matching forearm..so Maybe I'll go that route :hmm:

Respect Always
Metalshaper

 

[BillinOregon]

You're killing me guys. I would give anything to have acess to and know how to use a milling machine. I really like the idea of the inserted lockworks. My dream UH would probably be a receiver of round bar stock with integral breach plug and a graceful bend, mated seamlessly with a round barrel of the same outside diameter in, say, .69 caliber, Forsythe rifled. I would actually prefer a graceful English sporting scrolled trigger guard, which would require the lock to be powered by an internal spring rather than the much simpler external spring/trigger guard.
The receiver might have nice flats machined into each side like the lovely Zephyrs.

 

[Metalshaper]

Bill,

I use a German Milling mahine < chisels,hacksaws, drill bits and Files > most of the time! :rotf:

the mill in my shop,( a recent addition ) is a home built unit, made from a $39 table top drill press and a $20 XY vise. While it might not as good as a production unit, if I'm careful I can do pretty good work < or at least I think so? > ..at least its TLAR good "that looks about right" :winking: Oh and those old 1940-60ish Popular mechanics annuals and shop notes are priceless!!

Right now with family obligations, I can't afford to buy the production model I want.. and its partly why I build my own guns.. you'd be surprised out how little it actually cost to build Cj's UH !!

Respect Always
Metalshaper

 

[gmww]

My high tech tools are run by "Handrolics" Right hand and Left hand. Files (2), wood chisels (13), sanding block. I'm on the poor mans budget. Heck I even used my yellow lab's hair to fix a bald spot on a Texas Dall Sheep mount I had. Now theres no bald spot on the sheep. The dog is another story. :rotf:

My late Chocolate Lab used to get her hair brushed out at the end of winter so I could have brown dubbing for my fly tying. Worked great.

Metalshaper, if you got a simple way to make those beautiful pewter endcaps I'd sure like to learn. As you can see my tools are limited and my skill even more so.

 

[MRW]

The are pretty simple to do once you get a dam built to hold the pewter, the problem is usually shaping them after the pour if you get one that has recesses or special shapes it is harder to do so when you do your shaping you don't file back down into the wood I shaped the stock for this one with the round end of a belt sander

 

[MRW]

To early in the morning I guess to try and post a pic try this one

 

[John Taylor]

That looks great.
I been gone for a few days and I see my name mentioned. As soon as I can set up some tools to bend a short piece of 1&1/4" round bar I will get to making some frames.

 

[BillinOregon]

John: Thanks for posting. Can't wait to see your work. Boy, you live in good smelt and steelhead country.

 

[BillinOregon]

Metalshaper, I'd love to see your milling outfit, as I have a cheap Craftsman drill press and a cheaper XY vise from Harbor Freight.
GMMW: How about a pic of your Lab?

 

[John Taylor]

I hear it's good fishing but I got burned out many years ago. When I was 15 I worked on a Commercial fishing boat off the coast of Calif. I had enough fishing to last a lifetime. If you can't pull in something that weighs at least 45 pounds, why bother.
Got to let GMWW his barrel came in today. Did a little hacking on Fred's action to make it a bit smaller. Rear sight and stock and it will be ready to test out.

 

[faw3]

UPS said "he'll have it by Thursday". :rotf: But it is on its way. I'll have to find a long slow twist barrel next,(after we do the barrels Ive got lined up now) Happy day Glenn! FRED :hatsoff: edit..when you test it out try a 500gr 50 and a elk or something bigger! Bear? :rotf:

 

[gmww]

Very nice. How do you do it? Where do you get pewter etc.

BillinOregon. I went to the U of O back in the 70's. Here's a picture of Ruby my Pointing Lab.

 

[Metalshaper]

GMWW,

I have found junk pewter pieces at thrift stores. One guy I use to work with,,when he heard me talking about "Pouring Pewter' went out and brought back in from his truck,,a lil' pewter tea? pot and small pewter trivot. < think he paid $2 for the pair?>

On CJ's UH the 'pewter' is Cheap non-lead 4% silver solder..found the spool in a junk box at a flea market. I like the way it flows,,it's a bit harder than pewter and keeps it shine a bit better.. at least I think so?? I first used it, to pour 9 miniature cannons :grin: To help on my son's "Jamestown" diarama, he did as a school project. We even had stacks of cannon balls,, #5 shot, glued into pyramids :winking:

Marlow's right.. pouring pewter is not that hard..if you've thought through the form and any dams that are needed. and repairs CAN be made to a bad pour. small voids can be closed up..

Respect Always
Metalshaper

 

[BillinOregon]

GMWW: Ruby looks like a sweetie -- and like she loves her dog biscuits. ;-) I went to the U of O, too, from 71 to about 77, J-school.
Metalshaper, I think you can get casting pewter from Townsend and Sons and others, but if you are finding it at flea markets it has to be cheaper. That is indeed a nice forend.

 

[gmww]

They say photos add 5 lbs. :rotf: Ruby went on a diet and is back to 65 lbs. now. She's a great hunting partner. Stays out about 35 yards and does a nice back and forth arch. Often finds holding birds my partner's dog misses.

I'll have to do some tests on that soldering stuff. I have a cast iron pot for melting lead. How hot do I need?

 

[Metalshaper]

GMWW,

Hot enough to pour?? :hmm:

Sorry, Not trying to be a smart-aleck,, but I guess that could come across like I was.

I don't know what the exact temp is. My pouring pot is a thin metal can, with a pouring spout bent into its rim. I hold it 'firmly' with a locked set of vise grips. This thin can allows the heat to go through and melt the solder a lot faster. it also allows things to cool back down quicker,,when I'm done.

what your looking for is a fully fluid batch of metal. When its all ready, the metal has a nice shine to its surface and almost appears 'wet' < if that makes sense? > . You want it hot enough to flow, but not so hot it scorches the wood.

Hope this helps some? Best lessons are self taught.. make a practice piece and give it a try.. you can always torch a flub, off the demo..and a heavy soldering iron..will help melt a flub off of the real thing..

Respect Always
Metalshaper

 

[gmww]

Do you need to do anything to the wood to keep the pewter from coming off later? Pins? Grooves in the wood or anything? Sorry about so many questions. Never figured on ever doing this.

 

[Zonie]

Yes, the casting needs to be self locking onto the wood.
Some folks have used small screws into the wood and cast the material around them.
Another method is to drill holes thru the stock so the cast material flows thru the holes thereby locking it to the stock.

Check out the pictures in my reply in this post (and no, the stock isn't really that red ):

CASTING NOSECAPS

 

[gmww]

Thanks Zonie that link with your instructions is exactly what I was looking for! :thumbsup: