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Underhammer Kit

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gmww

70 Cal.
Joined
Sep 4, 2004
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I got my Underhammer kit from Deer Creek. I ordered it through Blue Grouse Black Powder. So far everything looks fine. I'm just trying to decide how to finish the metal.

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congrats i know mine is definatley fun. sooo what cal barrel length. i posted pics of mine in percussion i blued mine. mine is a 45 and is very accurate.
 
Gee that brought back memories from this past summer when I built mine---in.36 calibre. I browned the action and barrel, using Wahkon Bay magic elixir---this was my first experience at browning and I think I got a real interesting look---it's got small uniform pitting that adds to the character of the gun. I took some cloth and sewed it into 2" strips---soaked the cloth in water, wrapped it around the stock and later the forearm and then lightly touched the bare wood with a propane torch.This gave some darkened areas and then I finished with Golden Oak Minwax and one quick coat of Walnut to darken the entire stock and forearm slightly. The contrast of the light stock and forearm and the browned action and barrel---gave me a great look IMHO. The stock and forearm formation I accomplished by using a Foredom flex shaft tool---Gold Kutzall Cylinder and sanding cylinders. The fitting of the wood took about two weeks of off and on work in a hot steamy basement shop---sanding for the final finish seemed to take forever. The overall finish was done with waterproof polyurethane---3 coats and sanding every 72 hours with 120 grit and a final coat rubbed with 180 grit and then waxed with Minwax about five coats and then buffed. Great looking gun and by golly as accurate as I could want it to be. Good Luck with yours. :peace:
 
Got one just like it. 36cal good for tree rats. I used the Aquafortis on both metal and wood
Craig
 
Well it's a .50 cal with 1:60" twist I believe. The barrel length is 26". I think if I was to do it again I'd go with the longer barrel. I believe they are 32". Bruce from Blue Grouse says another barrel cost approximately $100 bucks.

It just so happens I have a Green mountain barrel for my Investarms coming in that is also 15/16" like this Underhammer. Ordered it from Track the Wolf. It has a 1:30" twist. I'm thinking I might have Bruce send me the appropriate breech plug. I can have a machinist buddy drill and tap the nipple in the barrel hole to fit this Underhammer. The tricky part would be to get the holes drilled for the pins so I can use the same forend.

I'm still trying to decide what metal finish to go with. I just don't want to wait forever for my local (over worked) gunsmith to blue it. That may take a while.
 
How easy and how does it look? I've heard conflicting reports on the finished product.

Also I was surprised at how finished the stock was. I'm almost finished with the sanding. I'm going to leave it pretty much in the shape it came.

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This is how it arrived in the box.
 
You put on that butt adjustible butt plate? Did you ever make that silver end cap? I saw pewter one somewhere. I'd sure like one like they have on the Shilo sharps.
 
Well I'm waiting for the Chemicals from Track the Wolf to arrive so I can brown the barrel. I decided I would go that route. I'm also waiting for the Cherry stain to arrive too.

In the mean time, I did some minor tweeking. I just hate to see those thin mold seams from cast parts. So I took my two moving pieces out of the gun and lightly ground them with my dremil. Before and after.

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I'm thinking about Case hardening the receiver after reading Jimbo's Underhammer thread. It will depend if I can do it in my garage or not with a propane torch. Otherwise its going to be browned.

Also discussing with Bruce about a fouler barrel. I'm hoping that by the time I'm done with this gun, I'll have a barrel in .50, .45, and a 12 ga. or 20 ga. I think it would all look nice together in a presentation gun case. A full rifle with two barrels under it.
 
Well here is the latest steps I've done with the Underhammer kit. I took it apart and stained the stock with Laurel Mountain Forge Antique Wood Stain in Cherry. I also submitted the exposed metal parts to the browning solution. In the photo is three hours after the first application.

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The stock is a little too red for my taste. I'd probably add a darker stain to it if I did it again. I'll just have to apply another stain to mute the redness.

The metal after three hours is dull and slightly greenish. I have since done a total of four coats. After coat three, the finish is pretty brown. The only problem I'm having is the finish around the brass tube that hold the ram rod. It is not browning in places. I'm thinking it's because they soldered it there. Either the heat caused the metal to brown differently or silver solder is in the pores and needs to be sanded out.

I've sanded that area and applied more solution. We shall see if that does the trick.
 
It's easy now, but it will turn brown in a couple of years, if you must cold blue try Oxpho blue from Brownells.
 
I've done a little of that home color case hardening with a propane torch and an oxy-map gas kit, (which I like better). Just be sure that the piece is absolutely clean. When you reach the desired color, quench in clean water and keep that up till your done. I did a piece about 6 or 7 years ago that still looks great. Be sure to keep it well oiled when your done.
 
Well I finished my Underhammer kit.
This is a copy from the other forum I posted on.


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I'm happy with the results but like anything else there were glitches. The first clitch was the hammer worked fine until I took it apart an put it back together. It would not engage and remain cocked. I took India stone and polish the the edges. That seemed to work.

While browning the metal with Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution, I did not sand the barrel with fine grit paper thinking it already looked pretty good. What I did not realize was there was solder in and around the ram rod tube which would not brown. So after 4 coats, I sanded that area only. I had to put 4 more coats to get it to blend in. I still have a little spot which I may or may not get to.

With the stock I used Laurel Mountain Forge Antique stain "Cherry". It goes on bright but eventually mutes after it dries. I used only one coat and then followed it up with a oak stain to darken it a bit. (Minwax Wood Sheen rubbing oil stain & finish) Manor oak was the color.

Ialso used 100% bees wax and rubbed it directly to the wood. I rubbed it with my bare hands then followed it up with a soft cloth. I still need to do a little more buffing. You can see my paw marks on the forend.

When I put it together as a completed rifle I ran into the hammer not staying cocked problem. Again I polished it with India stone and polished the flats smooth. I will have to keep an eye on this.

More photos to follow.
 
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It won't be until a couple of weeks that I hope to spend some time at the range getting the barrel broke in. I'll have a range report once I get a load to work.
 
looks nice. i hope it shoots good for you. always had a warm spot for underhammers. :blue:
 
I have a problem with my H A underhammer rifle maybe some of you folks have run into . The butstock wosks loosa , it looks like walnut wood the first time I tightened it everything looked good then it started getting little tiny cracks in the wood right whare the wood fits into that little socket area of the reciever . I don't want to just retighten the screw that holds the but stock on again just to have it happen again if there is a better fix , any ideas ?
 
Just a thought. Have you considered filling the original hole with something hard like epoxy. I'm sure a woodsmith out there could give you a better filler idea. I'm thinking that if you fill say 2" from where it meets the reciever on back. This will give the stock added support from the inside out. After it has harden drill a hole just big enough for the screw so you can put it back on your receiver.

Another idea along the same lines would be to put a metal tube to support the inside of the stock. Secure it with epoxy.

Lastly, give Deer Creek a call at 765-525-6181 to see if they would send you another on warantee or see how much a replacement would cost.

Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
 
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