Updated TC **** installed, TC PA Hunter

[RIDE-RED350R]

So I just got done installing the updated **** on my PA Hunter. Also got the top jaw and screw and replaced the original flint with an English flint from TOTW.

I took a before and after pic showing the lock at half ****. Also took a short video of it sparking. I might have to upload it to YouTube and link it here as I'm not sure if I can post it directly.

Basically I was wondering if more experienced hands can tell me if this is set up correct or not as I am very new to flintlocks.

First two pics are the original setup and the new setup at half cocked.

This pic shows the updated **** dropped all the way as it would rest after pulling the trigger.

This pic shows where the old setup had the flint making first contact with the frizzen. You can see a groove worn into it. Also, you can see new marks above that from dry firing it with the new setup a couple of times.

And here is a video if I can post it.

If anyone can offer advice on how this is setup whether correct or otherwise, I would greatly appreciate it.

Definitely going to grab up the modified Lyman frizzen when they come available again. This original frizzen has a fairly substantial groove worn across it and I suspect it could shorten flint life. I did check the Gun Works for frizzens and only one is listed and they do not state wether it is the updated frizzen or the original style.

Side note: I'm about sick of my phone autocorrecting frizzen into frozen

 

[Eric Krewson]

It looks to me that you have everything just right, that was a lot of sparks from a TC lock.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Thank you Sir.

I did attempt to set the flint up so it hits the frizzen as square and evenly as possible. But looking at the marks it left on the frizzen, I noticed that the mark is a bit higher on the left side of the frizzen face. Not sure what might cause that or if it's of concern. I'm thinking it could be a couple things, like frizzen is a bit tilted or maybe the flint itself being slightly angled once clamped down in the ****.

 

[Grimord]

So I just got done installing the updated **** on my PA Hunter. Also got the top jaw and screw and replaced the original flint with an English flint from TOTW.

I took a before and after pic showing the lock at half ****. Also took a short video of it sparking. I might have to upload it to YouTube and link it here as I'm not sure if I can post it directly.

Basically I was wondering if more experienced hands can tell me if this is set up correct or not as I am very new to flintlocks.

First two pics are the original setup and the new setup at half cocked.
View attachment 186451View attachment 186452

This pic shows the updated **** dropped all the way as it would rest after pulling the trigger.

View attachment 186453

This pic shows where the old setup had the flint making first contact with the frizzen. You can see a groove worn into it. Also, you can see new marks above that from dry firing it with the new setup a couple of times.


View attachment 186454

And here is a video if I can post it.
View attachment 186455

If anyone can offer advice on how this is setup whether correct or otherwise, I would greatly appreciate it.

Definitely going to grab up the modified Lyman frizzen when they come available again. This original frizzen has a fairly substantial groove worn across it and I suspect it could shorten flint life. I did check the Gun Works for frizzens and only one is listed and they do not state wether it is the updated frizzen or the original style.

Side note: I'm about sick of my phone autocorrecting frizzen into frozen

Have you tried RMC Oxyoke? They have had Lyman modified frizzens for T/C guns in the past.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Have you tried RMC Oxyoke? They have had Lyman modified frizzens for T/C guns in the past.

That's where I looked and they are currently out of stock.

 

[Africa58double]

My new style tc lock on my Pa hunter

Had an old style on a Renegade
It needed tlc, yet worked well

 

[TerryK]

It looks good, but maybe you can even flip that flint to get more contact. Looks great though.

RMC is over the hill from my house. They closed their retail store, but you can still call and leave your number and pick up stuff. I tried 4 times over months to get supplies, and they never called back. So I don't know what is happening there.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

I just ordered an unmodified Lyman frizzen from the Log Cabin shop. Guess I'll see if I can make whatever modification is needed to fit it to my TC. I've ported a few saws and have been a mechanic by trade for a number of years. If it's just a little bit of filing or something similar I think I can handle it. Guess we will all find out, I'll post up when it arrives and see what the difference is side by side with the original TC frizzen.

 

[White Oak]

Hey, not bad! I would be with TerryK. If you can flip that flint to bevel down and still get a solid clamp you will get a higher strike. Also what size flints are you using? It appears that you could be closer to the frizzen at half ****. At the suggestion of a member here I went to 3/4" X 7/8" and have had great luck with them. You may have to punch a 1/4" hole in your leather to allow the flint to sit back far enough in the jaws and clear the clamp screw. This allows the longer flint to still clear the frizzen at half ****. At least in my locks. Depending on where you are ordering your flints, I would ask that they be flat topped.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Hey, not bad! I would be with TerryK. If you can flip that flint to bevel down and still get a solid clamp you will get a higher strike. Also what size flints are you using? It appears that you could be closer to the frizzen at half ****. At the suggestion of a member here I went to 3/4" X 7/8" and have had great luck with them. You may have to punch a 1/4" hole in your leather to allow the flint to sit back far enough in the jaws and clear the clamp screw. This allows the longer flint to still clear the frizzen at half ****. At least in my locks. Depending on where you are ordering your flints, I would ask that they be flat topped.

I appreciate the advice.
Not long ago I got a dozen of these English flints from TOTW. Next time I place an order with them I'll see if I can get the size you recommended. I went with what they listed as "for TC" and if I recall they are 3/4"x3/4".

 

[deerstalkert]

this picture shows the vent liner slightly out from the barrel. if the bottom of the liner is below the pan it will hold off your bolster and allow powder to get behind the lock. not a good situation.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

this picture shows the vent liner slightly out from the barrel. if the bottom of the liner is below the pan it will hold off your bolster and allow powder to get behind the lock. not a good situation.
View attachment 186479

Thank you Sir. I'll go check it out and report back. I should probably grab a few vent liners to keep on hand at some point.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Good eye Deerstalkert. Found the vent liner was loose and it took about 1/2 turn to snug it up. Was hard to get a pic, but it looks like there is about a .010" gap between the bolster and barrel with the liner snug. Also the liner edge looks to be just a hair higher than the bolster. It's close.

 

[Africa58double]

this picture shows the vent liner slightly out from the barrel. if the bottom of the liner is below the pan it will hold off your bolster and allow powder to get behind the lock. not a good situation.
View attachment 186479

So always screw it fulling in

Correct?

 

[M. De Land]

So I just got done installing the updated **** on my PA Hunter. Also got the top jaw and screw and replaced the original flint with an English flint from TOTW.

I took a before and after pic showing the lock at half ****. Also took a short video of it sparking. I might have to upload it to YouTube and link it here as I'm not sure if I can post it directly.

Basically I was wondering if more experienced hands can tell me if this is set up correct or not as I am very new to flintlocks.

First two pics are the original setup and the new setup at half cocked.
View attachment 186451View attachment 186452

This pic shows the updated **** dropped all the way as it would rest after pulling the trigger.

View attachment 186453

This pic shows where the old setup had the flint making first contact with the frizzen. You can see a groove worn into it. Also, you can see new marks above that from dry firing it with the new setup a couple of times.


View attachment 186454

And here is a video if I can post it.
View attachment 186455

If anyone can offer advice on how this is setup whether correct or otherwise, I would greatly appreciate it.

Definitely going to grab up the modified Lyman frizzen when they come available again. This original frizzen has a fairly substantial groove worn across it and I suspect it could shorten flint life. I did check the Gun Works for frizzens and only one is listed and they do not state wether it is the updated frizzen or the original style.

Side note: I'm about sick of my phone autocorrecting frizzen into frozen

Is there any way to slow the video down so the spark dispersion and direction can be seen ? Spark focus and direction in my opinion is at least as important as volume.

 

[deerstalkert]

Good eye Deerstalkert. Found the vent liner was loose and it took about 1/2 turn to snug it up. Was hard to get a pic, but it looks like there is about a .010" gap between the bolster and barrel with the liner snug. Also the liner edge looks to be just a hair higher than the bolster. It's close.
looks like a job for a file to get it flat. any gap will surprise you with how much powder, especially ffff can get in there.
View attachment 186480

So always screw it fulling in

Correct?

usually works best. though sometimes the shoulder recess isn't there in the barrel so the rim bottoms first. i have had to file flush and use a easy out to remove later.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Is there any way to slow the video down so the spark dispersion and direction can be seen ? Spark focus and direction in my opinion is at least as important as volume.

I wasn't able to do a slow motion version of it on my phone as I was curious about that myself. I did upload it to YouTube, maybe I can do it there.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Let's see if this works.

 

[BruceHH]

As others have said, you want the vent liner flush with the flat on the barrel and you want the lock plate bolster flush with the flat on the barrel. You can remove the vent liner and either file or sand some off of the face. You could also use a little longer flint. If the one in the last video is 3/4 x 3/4, try a 3/4 wide x 7/8" long. You are getting good sparks with that flint, but a little longer would be even better.

 

[White Oak]

Just a thought on your vent liner. Personally I like the TC bushings with the 1/8" hex rather than the stock liners. Oxyoke use to sell some similar to TCs but it sounds as though they might be iffy right now. The TC hex bushing part# is 7327 if you can find them. I like these because you have a larger opening facing the pan and they are coned on the inside which I believe gives better ignition . The hex makes them much easier to install and remove than that shallow slot. In your situation where some filing may have to be done, you will not file enough away to remove the hex. Some people never remove the liner once installed. I do occasionally and use a very small amount of choke tube grease for anti seize and have never had a problem.