Updated TC **** installed, TC PA Hunter

[RIDE-RED350R]

As others have said, you want the vent liner flush with the flat on the barrel and you want the lock plate bolster flush with the flat on the barrel. You can remove the vent liner and either file or sand some off of the face. You could also use a little longer flint. If the one in the last video is 3/4 x 3/4, try a 3/4 wide x 7/8" long. You are getting good sparks with that flint, but a little longer would be even better.

Thank you Sir for the advice, I do appreciate it

It's hard to get a focused pic, but the vent liner does not touch or interfere with the bolster. But there is a slight gap between the bolster and the side of the barrel. Maybe I could pull the lock and see what I could do to get the lock to seat tighter to the barrel?

 

[deerstalkert]

remove the lock and look close at the inletting to check if the bridle is bottoming out. if there is no wood bridle contact, check the plate inlet ledge distance to the barrel flat. i have seldom seen a tc main spring bottoming in the inlet but anything is possible.

 

[M. De Land]

Thank you Sir for the advice, I do appreciate it

It's hard to get a focused pic, but the vent liner does not touch or interfere with the bolster. But there is a slight gap between the bolster and the side of the barrel. Maybe I could pull the lock and see what I could do to get the lock to seat tighter to the barrel?

I was wondering if the through bolt is tapped square to the lock plate or is bent .

 

[hinamanra]

So I just got done installing the updated **** on my PA Hunter.

Where, may I ask did you purchase the updated ****? I've been looking for them for awhile with no luck.

 

[Africa58double]

Just got a new Frizen for my old Tc Flint lock.

Last Lock before, I had to adjust the ****.

Glad my newest rifle is the new model lock and not need to fiddle with all that.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Where, may I ask did you purchase the updated ****? I've been looking for them for awhile with no luck.

Right here: - The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium -

Very nice folks, prompt shipping. I ordered my parts the day after Christmas and received them Friday. It was suggested by someone in this thread that the frizzen they list should be the updated thoroughly hardened version. I hadn't thought of ordering it from them when I placed my order.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Received my unmodified Lyman frizzen the other day. Figuring to fiddle with it today and see what modification is required to fit it to my lock.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

So today I got around to fiddling with this frizzen. Found the only mods necessary to fit the unmodified Lyman frizzen is to narrow the pivot housing and slightly shorten the little toe on the pivot housing that rests against the frizzen spring. Leaving it as it came made it pretty stiff to open the frizzen and I suspect it would cause accelerated wear on the flint. Dremel with a small non tapered cylindrical grinding stone made the job pretty easy. Ground in small steps trying to work evenly on both sides to keep the frizzen centered.

Here are some side by side pics of the TC frizzen and Lyman frizzen before I started grinding. The Lyman frizzen is the shorter one.

Here is the Lyman frizzen after grinding

Here is the lock at half and full **** after fitting the Lyman frizzen

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Slow speed of dropping the ****.

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

Dropped the **** a few more times after this vid. Spark volume seems to be getting better with more use.

 

[bronko220002]

It looks good, but maybe you can even flip that flint to get more contact. Looks great though.

RMC is over the hill from my house. They closed their retail store, but you can still call and leave your number and pick up stuff. I tried 4 times over months to get supplies, and they never called back. So I don't know what is happening there.

That's my first thought too. Flip the flint over and you'll hit the frizzen higher making even more spark.