Vise Mounting?

[Jim-Iowa]

I have been getting by with a 3 1/3" vise mounted on a 2"X T that I clamped in a Woodworking vise on my bench.
Since it is inadequate if I wish to put some muscle to it, I'm going to break down and get a 6" to mount on a wall mounted bench I have also.
The top is made of two 1" layes of plywood and the vise would be mounted over a drawer I have put a 18" Square of 14 ga steel under the mounting area. So I would be less likely to set the bench on fire using a torch. It would also leave a nice flat area for straightening things.
Since I don't want bolts projecting into the drawer area, do you thing lag bolts would be adequate? Or should I bite the bullet and run bolts through and cut them off to eliminate projection into the drawer area?

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Jim,

In my experience with large vises and reloading pressses, lag bolts don't work. Can you possibly put the bolts upside-down? Carriage bolts will dig into the wood and not turn when tightening the nuts. Nuthin worse thatn a loose vise. :cursing: GW

 

[davy]

I have been getting by with a 3 1/3" vise mounted on a 2"X T that I clamped in a Woodworking vise on my bench.
Since it is inadequate if I wish to put some muscle to it, I'm going to break down and get a 6" to mount on a wall mounted bench I have also.
The top is made of two 1" layes of plywood and the vise would be mounted over a drawer I have put a 18" Square of 14 ga steel under the mounting area. So I would be less likely to set the bench on fire using a torch. It would also leave a nice flat area for straightening things.
Since I don't want bolts projecting into the drawer area, do you thing lag bolts would be adequate? Or should I bite the bullet and run bolts through and cut them off to eliminate projection into the drawer area?

Nope you may pull them out ... put the bolts in upside down and file or cut off the excess on top above the nuts and split washers. Gives much better control & strength IMHO. You can slightly countersink them underneath into the bottom of the table top to pass the drawer lip. :thumbsup: Just my 2 cents.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Grey Whiskers and Davy:
Lazy people are always looking for shortcuts!
They usually wind up getting to the same point by going the long way around.
You have reinforced what I already knew.
I'll get the bolts to go all the way through and cut them off!
Thanks!

 

[dlemaster]

I mounted mine with carriage bolts with the heads inside the drawer and the nuts and washers on top.
The heads pulled down almost flush with the bottom surface of the bench top and didn't interfere with the drawer.
Just my $.02

Regards, Dave

 

[bob1961]

i used 3/8" lag bolts 3 1/2" long for the two down in the 2 x's with 1/4" pilot hole and ratchet and 3/4" plywood top and a 2" stud and flange nuts on top and bottom on the far side of the vise in the picture....the space under the top is what i made for drawers so clearence isn't a problem here....planed that one....so far no loose lag bolts but almost ripped the bench from the wall once :shocked2: ..........bob

 

[davy]

... almost ripped the bench from the wall once :shocked2: ..........bob

Seems ta me ya were lookin fer trouble Bob! :hmm: :rotf:

Davy

 

[MSW]

i agree with Davy- go with carriage bolts, avoid lag screws... additionally, you should consider getting a vise that tightens down on both sides of the pivot... these are usually larger and i wish i'd done it.

 

If you don't want nuts and bolt threads sticking into the drawer, use bolts with wood or T-nuts. These are designed to fit almost flush with the wood surface. You just need to drill a slightly larger hole for the T-nut to fit into. With 2" or 2 1/4" bolts they will almost be flush, and not protrude, and they will have the strength you need. They will be in those little drawers of specialty hardware at the home supply/hardware store. Ask for wood nuts, or T-nuts, they are called by both names. They can't be used with carraige bolts though. When you see them you will know how they work.

Bill

 

Bob, ya need to clean up that mess! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
Bill

 

[davy]

Bob, ya need to clean up that mess! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
Bill

Mess? :shocked2: you think thats a mess? :rotf: You obviously have not seen my workbench .. thank Gawd! :redface:

Davy

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Well it's going to be a compromise.
It's mounted with 3- 1/2" Carriage bolts 5" long.
One is full length and two cut off.
#4 is going to have to be a lag bolt since it goes into the solid end of the cabinet.
I had to take the steel plae off since I don't have a 1/2" drill chuck for the metal drill.
I'll have to take it to dad's and use his big drill press.
MSW I got a Kobalt 6" from Lowes and it Does have the double pivot locks.

Uh Bob, Don't be trying to pull that bench loose from the wall! A Man could hurt himself that way?

 

[MikeFromON]

The only thing holding lag bolts in place is the wood fibres that are filling the threads. They will come out if you apply a lot of lateral or twisting force to your workpiece. I attached my vise with ordinary nuts and bolts and nice big penny washers on both the top and bottom. These will distribute any forces nicely over the wooden benchtop, thus preventing the nuts or vise corners from gouging it when I really reef on something. I used lockwashers under the nuts to keep them from vibrating loose when I pound on or drill stuff. If I was you, I would put an extra layer of 1" ply under the vice, then drill holes big enough to accept the nuts and washers in the bottom sheet of ply (but not the top) so that the nuts will lay flush with the bottom surface of the benchtop and allow the drawer to slide in and out.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

It's a done deal. I found that 1/2" step shank bit that would fit my 3/8" drill last night(forgot where I put it?). I also remounted my big Benchtop drill press back on the stand(it had been removed for repair). I have a second small benchtop drill press 6 speed, I bought to use in the repair of my 12 speed. So the big one was sitting on the floor until needed(I sometimes procrastinate).
Drilled the steel plate to 1/2" to mount under the vise. I knew I would be using a torch and thought the plate would help in fire control of the top.
Put 3 1/2" Carriage bolts in from the bottom and 1 1/2" lag down through the stringer in the end of the cabinet.
It's a compromize, but solid and I doubt I'm man enough to tear it off the bench. :grin: