Walker cylinder too tight?

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reddog97

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I shot my Walker across the chrony yesterday and then shot some rounds at a target. The pistol shot real well,but after five rounds I had to help rotate the cylinder with my hand. I discovered that if I wiped the front of it off with some windex on a patch, it rotated freely again(for five more shots)I was shooting 50grs. of GoexFFF and 50grs. of FF.Same thing happened on both granulations. Is there a fix for this or do I have to shoot it enough to get a little more wear on the gun so there's more tolerance? The wedge is only in far enough to engage the end of the little spring on it. I don't have any problems with my other three Uberti pistols(1860 Army,3rd Model Dragoon,and '58Remy)Thanks in advance for any info. On a side note, the little gadget I posted a picture of that compresses the Walker mainspring worked excellent.
 
I presume you were shooting without lubed wads between the powder and ball or grease over the ball in the chamber mouths. Use of either will provide lubrication which softens the black powder fouling and will extend the number of shots you can take before it builds up enough to cause interference.
 
You may just have to shoot it some more to settle it in. I use wads, and this time of year I apply a little extra schmere of wonder-lube on one side of the wads, then put the wetter side towards the balls. I was able to get approx. 40 shots off prior to the revolver (Walker) binding-up. The windex trick will work and so does Bore Shine on the cylinder face.

Another possibility is that you might be able to slightly back-off the wedge if you really forced it into the slot.

Let us know how you make out.

Dave
 
I was using lubed wads and the wedge is out as far as it will go and still protrude just a little out of the left side.
 
It may just need shot-in some more. Mine did before it calmed-down. It could mean that your revolver is nice and tight when it goes into battery, which isn't such a bad thing! If you get the type of accuracy I've gotten from mine, you'll be glad it was tight now.

Another train of thought...did you get all of the old heavy grease out of the gun prior to shooting it? I used Shooter's Choice on mine and that helped some. Then a light coat of light oil did the trick, and I could pull the hammer back and cock the revolver after I shot it a few times.

After around 200 balls it should settle-in. I still have to "help" my cylinder turn when doing 4 cylinder's worth of rounds or more, and that's just part of the game.

Start lifting weights and doing reps with the gun while you're watching TV, so you can hold the thing up nice and steady....that's what I do to this day prior to a Match.

Enjoy that blaster! I use 52 grains of 3Fg Goex, a wonder-wad and a .454 Hornady ball.

Dave
 
The wedge is only in far enough to engage the end of the little spring on it.

Try it with the wedge not as far in. The wedge spring does not need to hook the frame. That's not what is was designed to do.

Cylinder fouling was a complaint with the original. That is why the Dragoon has more of a taper on the mouth of the barrel,to reduce the surface area in contact with the cylinder. What is your barrel gap? It should be around .008.
 
reddog97
Folks seem to think their gun isn't assembled correctly if the little hook on the wedge spring isn't latched with the side of the barrel block.

Actually, the spring doesn't have to be latched or even close to latching onto the barrel block.

The important thing to remember is that wedge is tapered and as you drive it in, it pushes the barrel back towards the cylinder. The further in it is, the tighter the breech of the barrel will be with the face of the cylinder.

If there is too little clearance, a little fouling on the face of the cylinder will lock up the gun every time.

Next time, before you take your Colt to the range, check the loosness of the cylinder/barrel fit. If you can not move the cylinder back away from the breech of the barrel at least two thicknesses of printer paper, tap the wedge out a bit, rotate the cylinder so that the loading ram hits between two chambers and push down on the loading lever to move the barrel out a bit.
With the wedge properly adjusted, your gun should not lock up.
 
Thanks fellas, I'll try pushing the wedge out a touch more.I'm shooting 50grs. Goex(both 3F and2F,) Hornady.454 rb and Eastern Maine lubed wad and this animal hits POA-POI at 25yds doing a little over 1100fps.
smokin 50- Lance's loading stand works great!
 
I let Lance know you're using it and it works for you! Glad to hear it! :thumbsup:

Continued success with that Walker! Remember that uniform ball seating depth and powder quantity will result in a lower sdv with your chrony!

Dave
 
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