• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Walker loads and projectiles

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

freeloader

36 Cal.
Joined
May 30, 2009
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
I have been considering purchasing a Colt Walker or Dragoon,and have looked at the Uberti knock offs in Dixies catalog. The questions I have are on the powder load and the projectiles used originally. 1st if memory serves me they recommend 22 grs of 3F powder, I understand that the originals used up to 60 grs.(a most potent load). So what gives with the tiny loads recommended by the manufacture? I am guessing lawyers LOL.2nd.did not the percussion revolvers of the Colt type use minies? I have seen pictures of loaded colts during the Civil war period that looked like they were loaded with minies. And with all the lead picked up on the Gettysburg battle field it sure looks like minies ruled.
I would just like all of my other muzzle loaders to shoot them as closely as possible as the way they were during the period that they were used in earnest. Any experts out there that can advise me? Also if they did use minies, why can I not locate a real working mould for the Walker? Dixie sells one for presentation, but does not recommend them for any kind of accurate shooting.
Thanks,Sincerely
Freeloader
 
The bullets used in the Colts were pointed, with a solid base, so not a Minnie which used a hollow base. I have a brass mold for .44cal colt and it throws 1 round ball and 1 pointed bullet. The bullet weighs about 230 or so grs. and hits closer to point of aim than the ball, which shoots high.

I am not sure what the load was for a Dragoon with pre-loaded ctgs. I am pretty sure it was a paper ctg with a pointed bullet loaded whole and (paper)consumed on firing.

I had a 1860 colt copy and the cylinder held 40gr of 3FFFg. Sometime I wild fill it up and press down a round ball and smeer some lube over chamber. The gun handled it fine.

P
 
The period correct bullet for the Walker or Dragoon was the pointed picket bullet. Didn't find a lot of favor with users of the time due the difficulty loading it.
The Uberti chambers mike out right at .450 so a .454 round ball would work well and be period correct. Lee makes a mold for a conical bullet which while not period correct works well if that's what you want to shoot. I don't know of anyone making a good useable mold for the picket.
 
Most accurate round ball load for my Walker: 52 grains of 3Fg Goex, a pre-lubed wonder-wad and a .454 Hornady ball, packed tight with uniform pressure/depth via a pistol loading stand. POA is only 6.5" below POI. Wins competitions all of the time and can hit a set of air tanks at 135 yards :shocked2: .

Should you buy one, you'll know what it's like to be the center of attention upon ignition :) .

Dave
 
Recreating a conical with solid base is easy with a Lyman or RCBS style cast bullet sizer. Just size the back 2/3's or so of 45 pistol bullets (cast from pure soft lead) to a diameter just barely smaller than the chambers. That way you are creating a solid base that is correct for your revolver. The length of sizing needed varies depending on the geometry of the revolver and the mold.
Lots of folks try conicals in revolvers and have a terrible time trying to load them. And then the conicals can't be accurate because they didn't fit the gun. Sizing them to fit solves the loading and accuracy problems.
A properly fitted conical will minimize misalignment and minimize the amount of expansion that is needed to seal the bore. The readily available molds and sizers let you duplicate the conicals originally used without paying for a custom mold to fit your piece.

And, oh yeah...
Do not use anything but soft lead. And don't try to magnumize the loads. Research the loads used with the conicals. Stick to the reasonable charges and bullet weights. Anything else just doesn't work because it's outside of the machines design parameters.
 
GoodCheer said:
Recreating a conical with solid base is easy with a Lyman or RCBS style cast bullet sizer. Just size the back 2/3's or so of 45 pistol bullets (cast from pure soft lead) to a diameter just barely smaller than the chambers. That way you are creating a solid base that is correct for your revolver. The length of sizing needed varies depending on the geometry of the revolver and the mold.
Lots of folks try conicals in revolvers and have a terrible time trying to load them. And then the conicals can't be accurate because they didn't fit the gun. Sizing them to fit solves the loading and accuracy problems.
A properly fitted conical will minimize misalignment and minimize the amount of expansion that is needed to seal the bore. The readily available molds and sizers let you duplicate the conicals originally used without paying for a custom mold to fit your piece.

And, oh yeah...
Do not use anything but soft lead. And don't try to magnumize the loads. Research the loads used with the conicals. Stick to the reasonable charges and bullet weights. Anything else just doesn't work because it's outside of the machines design parameters.

+1

The Colt mold made one round ball and one conical. The early mold the conical did not have a lube groove, later in early Dragoon production a single groove, then two lube grooves by time Colt has into the late Dragoon production.

Colt specs for the Walker are 35-55grs with 50 recommended. The Dragoon is 35-40grs with 37 recommended.
 
I bought a Colt style brass mold from Blockade Runner a few weeks ago.(http://www.blockaderunner.com/Catalog/catpg6.htm)

It leaves quite a flash line and a large sprue in the round ball. You can see the rebated area on the rear of the conical ball that makes it easy to line up and load. It drops into the cylinders of my Pietta Remington and leaves a thick lead ring.

DSC01338Large.jpg


DSC01337Large.jpg


DSC01336Large.jpg


DSC01335Large.jpg
 
smokin .50 said:
Most accurate round ball load for my Walker: 52 grains of 3Fg Goex, a pre-lubed wonder-wad and a .454 Hornady ball, packed tight with uniform pressure/depth via a pistol loading stand. POA is only 6.5" below POI. Wins competitions all of the time and can hit a set of air tanks at 135 yards :shocked2: .

Should you buy one, you'll know what it's like to be the center of attention upon ignition :) .

Dave


I bet! With 55 grains of fff, I can plink beer cans at 100 yards. I cant hit them every time, but it's a blast!
 
Nothing quite like the Walker!

Many a time at the range the phrase, "What the H#ll was THAT :shocked2: !" could be heard and then my laughter followed :)

Dave
 
I have one of those molds in 31 for my 1848 baby dragoon. Any tips on that mold, I was going to attempt to cast a few balls with mine in the next few weeks. I see you smoked the mold, any advise would be great.
 
I had a brass mold like that, used it for my 58 Rem. the picket ball shot just OK but the ball was the very accurate. Since a move I can not find it. Also have one for my sons .31. Best advise on those types of molds? GOOD GLOVES.
Jon D
 
Back
Top