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Want to learn how to cast lead

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As far as using charcoal and rubber propane lines, here's my thoughts.

I doubt that charcoal would produce enough heat unless you had a fan blowing on it. Then the fan would tend to cool off the lead pot so it might be an exercise in frustration.

Go with the propane.
You really need to be able to adjust the heat to keep the lead at the right temperature and with charcoal you can't do that easily.

If your really concerned about the rubber hose, loosely wrap some aluminum foil around it near the stove. Even though the molten lead will be about 750 degrees F, if some of it spills on the aluminum foil, the foil will prevent direct contact and it will conduct the heat of the lead away rapidly and safely.

Getting back to heat, I'm sure you've heard this before but it will take at least two cast balls to heat up aluminum molds before they will start making good castings. With steel molds plan on at least 5 or 6 castings to heat up the molds.

If the balls don't fully form and they are all wrinkly the molten lead was too cold.

If the balls come out with a frosted look the molten lead is too hot.

Have fun while you remember, back in the late 1800's little kids used to cast their "tin" soldiers with molten lead.
Ah, for the good old days when kids could learn from experience and have fun doing it. :grin:
 
It sounds like to me that you have a good idea of need materials and tools. Casting your own projectiles is a very good thing,it's fun, economical, and allows you to get deeper into our hobby. You will have a learning cure to be sure but it's not all that hard to get good results !
Give yourself time to learn. I really enjoy making my own RB ammo, you get into almost a zen like mental state thats very relaxing and fun. All of us here are rooting for you and you can be sure we will help you through the drill.
best of luck Cynthialee and go have some fun :v
PS.
Always listen to Zonie, that guy knows the right way to do anything related to black powder shooting !
nilo52
 
Zonie said:
I doubt that charcoal would produce enough heat unless you had a fan blowing on it.:grin:

Just for information's sake, I did try charcoal once, and no, it doesn't get hot enough. I really packed an old BBQ with charcoal, and I mean it was HOT. Used an old steel camp pan with maybe a couple of pounds of lead, not much. Didn't even come close to melting. so I removed the grate and set the pan right on the coals. No cigar.

I mostly use a propane plumber's lead pot. I have spilled hot lead all over that thing, even the hose, with no trouble. The lead won't stick to the hose, and those hoses are pretty tough anyway. If molten lead won't burn through my pants, I'm sure it won't melt a propane hose. I've poured a couple of gozillion balls with that old pot, never had a problem with spilled lead. But, I do stretch the hose out as far as it will reach, to keep the tank away from the flame. Just common sense.

Now go cast some balls! Bill
 
Can't add too much to what has been said. I have been casting for 25 years. This is what I have to say: The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook has alot of good info on casting, ML, and other topics. Good all-round reference. I have found Lee products, moulds, pots, etc, to be the least expensive and as good as any. Lastly, you MUST follow all safety rules: Eye protection, gloves, long sleeves, shoes, and a well ventilated work area. Do not let moisture come in contact with the melt. Casting is not difficult. Might require a little practice. Enjoy and be safe.
 
I kind of figured charcoal would melt lead but figured by the time you got it hot enough it would be starting to cool down. If it did work it would be difficult at best especially trying to regulate the temp. A small pot might work but it's best to just go with something that gets hotter, quicker and that you can regulate the heat like a coleman stove or turkey frier. I've even used the kitchen stove both electric and gas with a hood fan venting.The electric pots are even easier to use as you just plug them in and wait for the lead to melt.
 
You cook don't you? Casting lead balls is a bit like cooking ... without the sharp knives that can give you a nasty cut! :wink:
It's no big deal if you take the obvious safety precautions. Once you get started you will like it and never buy those expensive and badly cast factory balls again ... you will never look back, I asure you! :thumbsup:
 
damron said:
pure lead cant frost.


Sorry, that statement is pure bull butter.
Now, I know the term "pure lead" can be argued. Most of what we use is not absolutely pure. But, a lot of scroundged lead is very nearly pure. There is nothing that is 100% pure-pure, except maybe in a scientific labratory.
I used to buy lead in wholesale quantities and sell to retail dealers. I bought direct from the producer, a large facility of National Lead in Cincinnati, Ohio. That was as pure as any ml'er could hope to find.
When I cast with that lead, if my temp was too high it would frost. That was when I developed my method of setting temps by noting when the frost was just beginning to form on the balls. At that point I was hot enough.
Pure lead that we use will frost.
 
That was my experience too.

According to my lead temperature thermometer the frosting didn't start showing up until the temperature was up above 860*F.

I hadn't been keeping an eye on the temp and the dial on my electric lead melting pot was set too high.
 
I did it!
Most look like manure and I am pretty sure I need a bigger pouring ladle but a couple in the pile look fairly useable. And I didn't screw up any of my equipment. But I pretty much followed the advice ya'll gave me.

I'll try and get a pic of my formorian bullets posted here in a bit.
 
bullets1stattemp8-13-12.jpg


I thought that 3 were serviceable but on closser inspection only 2 were up to the job of being fired through a rifle.

There are three atempts at conicals in the picture as it is a dual mold, but my ladle wasn't big enough to do the job. Time for a bigger pouring ladle.

I had just got in the groove when I was called in for dinner.
 
I think you nailed the problem, bigger ladle. I use either a plumber's ladle, or a big (very big) aluminum spoon, each holding enough lead to pour about ten balls. All that extra lead in the ladle keeps the lead hot while you're pouring, and ensures you have ample lead to fill the cavity(s).

Otherwise, you're getting there. :thumbsup: Bill
 
P.S. And pure lead can't frost. If it frosts, it's not pure lead. That simple. :idunno: Bill
 
Preheat your mould and you will get them to come out good quicker. For the aluminum moulds I stick the corner (to include the sprue plate) in the hot lead for about a slow count to 24 or when the lead doesn't stick to the mould when you pull it out. 20 count for the single cavities or you can set the mould on the edge of the pot while it is heating up. What are you using for a dipper? It will come quicker than you think and you will be cranking out good ones real quick.
 
I did hold the mold in the lead before I cast.

The ladle I am ussing would be more suited to a .45 or smaller I think. I got it from the bullet casting section of the sporting goods store. I just should have gotten the larger one. I just figured I would be able to go longer at it if I wasn't picking up a heap of lead every pour. Live and learn.
 
You are correct that a smaller amount of lead will wear on you less so you can go longer. Keep in ind just because the dipper is bigger, doesn't mean you have to fill it every pour. I adjust according to hoe much I need. I only half fill my dipper for little 32 RBs and that's still more than needed but the lead stays hot longer when there is more, especially with such a small amount. I use a Lee ladle which isn't very big and which most don't like but that's what I had for years. I do as large as 58 cal 2x RBs with it just fine. After you speed up and get better you may find your ladle works ok.
 
Your pour speed and leaving, or not leaving, a puddle on top will affect the result also. The ones with cavities look, from here, like low temp, slow pour and no top puddle. And, waiting until the interior solidifies is important also. Depending on lead temp, the solidifiying can take from about 3 to 15 seconds.
Look for a Lyman ladle. Might be a little costly but a good investment.
 
Great job Cynthialee...now that you got the first batch done, they will just get better and better :thumbsup:
 
For what it's worth, I also do what BrownBear suggested. I spend one day just reducing scrap lead into ingots and biscuits. Then use them to cast my round balls on my casting days. I use the ingots at home when I am going to cast a lot of balls, carry the biscuits in my shooting bag with a small folding ladel and bag mold..its a fun thing to do on treks over the fire...rescued the broken cast iron baby biscuit mold from the "go to the dump" pile... :grin:

ballpan.jpg
 
Now, wern't that fun?

It gets funner when they all start poppin' out looking just like a factory made them but that will come with a larger ladle and a bit more experience. :grin:
 

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